Thursday 8 December 2011

Restaurant Review : Saltxipi, San Sebastian, Spain

After few consecutive nights of eating out at fine dining / continental European food restaurants, we were looking forward to some simple food from our room service menu at Villa Soro, our home for 4 days in San Sebastian, Spain. The foodie in me came to the fore while conversing with the concierge about the San Sebastian Gastronomika conference held each year at the Kursaal. It is a high point in the Basque calendar where renowned chefs from all over the world get together. Not for nothing is San Sebastian Europe's culinary capital with more Michelin starred restaurants per capita than anywhere else in the world. All the talk about food only led me to ask the front desk where do the locals go for their dose of freshly cooked Basque cuisine ? Prompt answer : Saltxipi, in the neighbourhood of Gros in San Sebastian. It is supposedly a restaurant renowned for its seafood offerings.

We reach the modest looking detached house structure the next evening looking for signs of a well known restaurant. What we find instead is an unassuming sign with Saltxipi written on it and we just follow the well dressed and sophisticated crowd to where the waiting area / reception is. Hardly having reached the patio, we are greeted by the friendly father-son duo that owns Saltxipi and shown to our table. Perfect beginning !

The ambience is reminiscent of a large family's dining room. Warm decor, subdued lighting, attentive staff and well spaced out tables. Rows of bottles lined across the end of the room reinforce the owners' fondness for local Rioja wines and we settle in promptly to enjoy authentic Basque cuisine with a beautiful cellar of wines to choose from !

Starter is a portion of red bell peppers which is done to a degree of perfection hard to imagine with a microwave leading us to believe the preparation is the handiwork of a master chef.
Main course consists of grilled prawns and the famed spider crab. The prawns are good but nothing to write home about. The spider crab is a different experience. Having lived in Singapore for nearly 5 years,  I love my crabs. Saltxipi's owner desisted from recommending the steamed crab (too messy) and instead recommended we try the oven baked spider crab. It was absolutely delicious with just the right kind of seasoning so as not to take away from the inherently good flavour of the meat. What did add to the crab experience most was the quantity. We ordered one portion only and the meat portion was generous.

A bottle of 2010 Rioja kept us fine company. The owner of the restaurant is clearly a well known figure in San Sebastian and his friendly interactions with his guests reinforced our belief that fine dining is 90% chef's innovation and 10% making your clients feel at home. Hats off to the owners who see this fact and work on it.

Would we be returning to Saltxipi ? Of course yes ! The restaurant is a little gem tucked away in Gros (the non commercial part of San Sebastian). Considering the city is an expensive one, Saltxipi is good value for money. Food is made and served with great passion using only the freshest ingredients. If you are looking for Michelin starred food and ambience without the price tag, Saltxipi is for you.

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