Wednesday 13 March 2013

Restaurant Review : Din Tai Fung, Singapore

Dumplings. The very word makes me hungry even after I've just finished a hearty meal. Indians tend to confuse them with a more Tibetan-ized version of the same called 'momos' which are a popular street food in many Indian cities. I shall not delve too much into the difference between the two but it would suffice to say they both satiate the same craving but with different tastes.

I've lived in Hong Kong and Singapore and experimented with dim sums a.k.a dumplings at a lot of restaurants in the Oriental region to know a thing or two about them. I had written them off as just another highlight of Chinese cuisine till I walked into Din Tai Fung few years ago. I've been a convert since then and if I could, I would eat them at least once a week. How's that for overdoing an indulgence but still not managing to break away from its shackles?

Din Tai Fung is a Taiwanese chain of restaurants and has today expanded its wings well beyond Taiwan. Singapore's famous Bread Talk group operates the franchise in Singapore and Thailand and outside of Asia the restaurant chain now boasts of branches in USA, Australia and Japan too. The brand's first branch in Hong Kong at Kowloon has been awarded one Michelin star. I've been a regular visitor to almost all of the Din Tai Fung outlets in Singapore for the past many years. It really doesn't matter for which outlet you make a beeline since the food quality and service standards are outstandingly consistent and the only differentiating factor would be the ease of getting seated. The brand has stayed true to its Taiwanese roots with the menu being printed in both English and traditional Chinese and the bill being exclusively printed in Chinese with only numbers being in English.

Any visitor to Din Tai Fung would be making a selection of at least one of the dim sums on offer. I would unflinchingly recommend the star of the show : Xiao Long Bao (steamed pork dumplings). These super juicy and succulent dumplings are the outlets' main draw and the precision which goes into making each of them can only be rivaled by a Swiss watch maker! The dough is painstakingly rolled and cut into identical pieces which do not exceed a certain weight. The dumplings are then stuffed with premium minced pork and pleated with a minimum of 18 exquisite folds and sealed with a slight twist at the top. These dumplings are steamed at just the right temperature and served to patrons piping hot. The moment the dim sum basket is placed in front of you, you know a culinary masterpiece is about to be unveiled. Be careful to avoid the temptation of placing one whole dim sum in your mouth as it will be steaming hot. At the same time, you cannot bite halfway into a dim sum since the minced pork's juice will stream out. This is the opportunity to learn the great balancing act. Just have a small bite off the top of the dumpling to let the steam out and then savour the flavour of this heavenly offering. Apart from pork (SGD10.30 for 10 pieces), you can choose from dumplings stuffed with pork and shrimp, crab, chicken and fish (in that order with fish dumplings being the least tasty). All are priced in the range of SGD 9-11 and can be had in smaller portions of 6 pieces each.

If you like your dumplings with soup, then the above can be served in a broth as well. I personally feel the soup servings are enormous and the broth fills you up without letting you really enjoy the taste of the dim sums. There are various noodle soups available on the menu but my preferred accompaniment is the fried rice with eggs and shrimp sauteed with spring onions. Unlike the more popular MSG loaded Chinese fried rice , Din Tai Fung's offering has minimal seasoning and yet is delicious. A host of beverages are on offer (no alcohol is served at all Din Tai Fung outlets) and my absolute favourite is the lemongrass juice served with a giant ball of ice (SGD 3.8) - the perfect antidote to a hot and humid day in Singapore.

Din Tai Fung has its set of loyal patrons who troop in regularly for the signature Xiao Long Baos. This perhaps explains the outlets' domineering presence in places with heavy footfall : office complexes, shopping malls and even at the two casino areas : RWS and MBS. The outlets lack ambience and character of any kind and your first impression on entering one will be : Gosh, they are busy! During peak lunch and dinner time, be prepared to queue for at least 20 minutes. They manage crowds well and take your order whilst you wait for your token number to appear on the electronic screen. The decor is fancy-free and functional at best. From most seats you can have a look through the glass paneled kitchens and watch master chefs with covered mouths and heads at work through steam hazes.

On a parting note, I'll only bring up my favourite gripe with Asian restaurant chains. Like Jumbo et al, Din Tai Fung staff will ply you with jasmine tea and peanuts which are chargeable without you having ordered them. Do remember to have these taken away right then if you do not want them. Another minor gripe is with the staff. Whilst they are efficient, you are best off without having to communicate with them. The staff's English is very poor and if you need to clarify any matter or customize a dish, God be with you. Perhaps that is why the menu is a self-ticking sheet. These minor issues aside, don't pass up the opportunity to dine here. These are the best dim sums / dumplings you'll have anywhere in the region and that is a promise. Add to that Michelin starred dining at fast food prices and who can refuse?

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