Wednesday 13 March 2013

Restaurant Review : Din Tai Fung, Singapore

Dumplings. The very word makes me hungry even after I've just finished a hearty meal. Indians tend to confuse them with a more Tibetan-ized version of the same called 'momos' which are a popular street food in many Indian cities. I shall not delve too much into the difference between the two but it would suffice to say they both satiate the same craving but with different tastes.

I've lived in Hong Kong and Singapore and experimented with dim sums a.k.a dumplings at a lot of restaurants in the Oriental region to know a thing or two about them. I had written them off as just another highlight of Chinese cuisine till I walked into Din Tai Fung few years ago. I've been a convert since then and if I could, I would eat them at least once a week. How's that for overdoing an indulgence but still not managing to break away from its shackles?

Din Tai Fung is a Taiwanese chain of restaurants and has today expanded its wings well beyond Taiwan. Singapore's famous Bread Talk group operates the franchise in Singapore and Thailand and outside of Asia the restaurant chain now boasts of branches in USA, Australia and Japan too. The brand's first branch in Hong Kong at Kowloon has been awarded one Michelin star. I've been a regular visitor to almost all of the Din Tai Fung outlets in Singapore for the past many years. It really doesn't matter for which outlet you make a beeline since the food quality and service standards are outstandingly consistent and the only differentiating factor would be the ease of getting seated. The brand has stayed true to its Taiwanese roots with the menu being printed in both English and traditional Chinese and the bill being exclusively printed in Chinese with only numbers being in English.

Any visitor to Din Tai Fung would be making a selection of at least one of the dim sums on offer. I would unflinchingly recommend the star of the show : Xiao Long Bao (steamed pork dumplings). These super juicy and succulent dumplings are the outlets' main draw and the precision which goes into making each of them can only be rivaled by a Swiss watch maker! The dough is painstakingly rolled and cut into identical pieces which do not exceed a certain weight. The dumplings are then stuffed with premium minced pork and pleated with a minimum of 18 exquisite folds and sealed with a slight twist at the top. These dumplings are steamed at just the right temperature and served to patrons piping hot. The moment the dim sum basket is placed in front of you, you know a culinary masterpiece is about to be unveiled. Be careful to avoid the temptation of placing one whole dim sum in your mouth as it will be steaming hot. At the same time, you cannot bite halfway into a dim sum since the minced pork's juice will stream out. This is the opportunity to learn the great balancing act. Just have a small bite off the top of the dumpling to let the steam out and then savour the flavour of this heavenly offering. Apart from pork (SGD10.30 for 10 pieces), you can choose from dumplings stuffed with pork and shrimp, crab, chicken and fish (in that order with fish dumplings being the least tasty). All are priced in the range of SGD 9-11 and can be had in smaller portions of 6 pieces each.

If you like your dumplings with soup, then the above can be served in a broth as well. I personally feel the soup servings are enormous and the broth fills you up without letting you really enjoy the taste of the dim sums. There are various noodle soups available on the menu but my preferred accompaniment is the fried rice with eggs and shrimp sauteed with spring onions. Unlike the more popular MSG loaded Chinese fried rice , Din Tai Fung's offering has minimal seasoning and yet is delicious. A host of beverages are on offer (no alcohol is served at all Din Tai Fung outlets) and my absolute favourite is the lemongrass juice served with a giant ball of ice (SGD 3.8) - the perfect antidote to a hot and humid day in Singapore.

Din Tai Fung has its set of loyal patrons who troop in regularly for the signature Xiao Long Baos. This perhaps explains the outlets' domineering presence in places with heavy footfall : office complexes, shopping malls and even at the two casino areas : RWS and MBS. The outlets lack ambience and character of any kind and your first impression on entering one will be : Gosh, they are busy! During peak lunch and dinner time, be prepared to queue for at least 20 minutes. They manage crowds well and take your order whilst you wait for your token number to appear on the electronic screen. The decor is fancy-free and functional at best. From most seats you can have a look through the glass paneled kitchens and watch master chefs with covered mouths and heads at work through steam hazes.

On a parting note, I'll only bring up my favourite gripe with Asian restaurant chains. Like Jumbo et al, Din Tai Fung staff will ply you with jasmine tea and peanuts which are chargeable without you having ordered them. Do remember to have these taken away right then if you do not want them. Another minor gripe is with the staff. Whilst they are efficient, you are best off without having to communicate with them. The staff's English is very poor and if you need to clarify any matter or customize a dish, God be with you. Perhaps that is why the menu is a self-ticking sheet. These minor issues aside, don't pass up the opportunity to dine here. These are the best dim sums / dumplings you'll have anywhere in the region and that is a promise. Add to that Michelin starred dining at fast food prices and who can refuse?

Friday 1 March 2013

Hotel Review : The Back Bay Hotel, Boston, USA

Doyle Collection is a small Irish chain of hotels which owns some excellent properties across Ireland, UK and the US. I've not had the opportunity to actually stay in any of their hotels previously but they've always been on my list of hotels to try. So it was with some enthusiasm, I looked forward to my stay in Boston at The Back Bay Hotel. 

The hotel is only a couple of blocks from Back Bay station and 
is easy to find. We could easily walk down to the hotel from the station with our luggage after our 7 hour train journey from Washington DC. The hotel is housed in the old Boston Police Headquarters. The building is quite impressive architecture-wise and looks more spectacular at night. There were two door men posted at the entrance and neither of them offered to hold the door open for us as we walked in with our luggage. The ground floor lift takes you to the reception one level higher and here too, I could not sight a bell boy who could help us with our bags. In fact, during our entire stay there was not a single occasion we were welcomed back with a greeting or even so much as a polite smile by the hotel staff. Check-in was efficient and as per request, we were given a room on the 8th floor of the 10 storey hotel.

The room was of decent size and the fluffy bed was quite comfortable. We had a street view from our room but it was snowing the entire 4 days we were there so I cannot really complain about the view. The room decor is of a standard business hotel and in fact, offers some redundant amenities like a CD player (an Ipod docking station would have been more useful) and a Nespresso machine whose coffee capsules were replenished only once daily. The thrift of the hotel management was evident in other aspects too. The spacious bathroom had a nice shower cubicle but no soap or shower gel for bathing! There was only one soap bar kept in the hand wash area so you pretty much had one soap for all your bathroom activities. I'd much rather they downgraded the toiletries brand from Bath and Body Works to a cheaper option but provided more quantity.


On our first day in the hotel, we ordered a Margarita pizza through room service and it was very average. Breakfast was not included in our room rate and the pizza quality sealed the deal for us to not have breakfast in the hotel. Cuffs - the hotel's Irish bar seemed to be a popular hangout and we visited it one evening. For close to twenty minutes, no one came around to take our order so we walked up to the bar to place it ourselves. Just as we were grabbing our drinks, a rushed waitress dropped by to ask what would we like. Huh? On informing her our order was already placed, she left with a grumpy face muttering something under her breath (a missed tip I guess). In keeping with our overall experience thus far, the poor service was consistent at Cuffs as well.


On the positive side, the hotel has a very efficient concierge service. The lady concierge in charge was not very good at suggesting itineraries but was extremely efficient in booking what you had already decided on. She booked our Duck Tour tickets, guided us to some good restaurants around the hotel and to our great surprise, suggested just the place where my husband could load up on all his graphic novels (Million Year Picnic in Cambridge is just fantastic). We often remarked how out of place she seemed to be in an establishment where cold behaviour and rudeness seemed to be pre-requisites for landing a job! 


On the location front, it is hard to find fault with The Back Bay Hotel. As I mentioned, it is couple of blocks away from Back Bay station and is also a short walk to Arlington T station. The shops on Newbury Street, Boyleston Street and Copley Place are all a comfortable walk away.


As of February 2013, the Back Bay Hotel has ceased to be a Doyle collection hotel and has been acquired by Loews Hotels and Resorts. I really hope they can spruce up the hotel in all aspects - from the physical to the personnel. It is a pity to see such a wonderful hotel being undone by its incompetent staff. I'll be watching the space for The Back Bay Hotel. In the meanwhile, you won't see me here.