Tuesday, 5 February 2013

Restaurant Review : Oyster Bar at Grand Central Terminal, New York City, USA

Some places are nice to visit but over time, they become victims of their own hype. Abundant examples of this genre are to be found. Ranging from the eloquence gifting Blarney's Stone in Ireland (what an eyewash!) to the much touted Disney-like Karlstejn Castle near Prague which is such a disappointment when you see its poorly maintained dingy rooms that make you wonder - is this really a royal castle? The list goes on and sadly, extends to contemporary attractions as well. From sipping the Singapore Sling at The Raffles Hotel in Singapore to visiting the Buddha Bar in Paris, I've time and again fallen victim to the 'you must go there when here' trap and each time have come away a much disappointed person. I vow not to be fooled again but alas.

On my last trip to NYC, I was carrying the baggage of yet another 'you have to do this when in NYC.' Having heard from so many friends and seeing it feature on most travel forums, I dragged my reluctant better-half to the much touted Oyster Bar at Grand Central Terminal on 42nd Street and Park Avenue. The restaurant is situated at the dining concourse of the grand station building which celebrates its centenary this year. The restaurant, along with the Grand Central terminal, dates back to 1913 and has been in continuous business since the time except for a brief closure period for renovations few years back. From the time you enter, the architecture overwhelms you. Oyster Bar features high vaulted, tiled ceilings with a whispering gallery at the entrance. Coming from India, these acoustical tricks are not a novelty for me but in the US, only a few buildings from old times have them. Children will have a great time whispering to each other whilst their parents dig into the seafood! There is wood paneling on the sides and gilded ducts conceal the air conditioning units / heaters.


We were late for dinner by American standards - 9pm and were lucky to get a table instantly. This was Black Friday and the restaurant was totally full. Red checked clothed tables with comfortable brown leather upholstered chairs and sofas seat enthusiastic diners who were busier with their cameras than with the food. Seems like everyone was there because they were supposed to be there! A wide selection of international beers and wines is on offer along with a large choice of American beers on tap. Buns with sesame crackers are served with butter while you decide the menu.


The menu was choc a bloc with seafood of all hues and sizes. Unfortunately, they were out of the 2 fish items I wanted to have - Sole and Alaskan Salmon. We settled for Grouper ($ 32) and Snapper ($ 34) along with a portion of jumbo prawns sauteed in garlic butter ($ 32). The prawns were appetising and the snapper was well done. The grouper was a disappointment. It was chewy and bland due to lack of any seasoning. I don't care much for oysters and avoided them altogether. Other popular dishes here include crab claws, Maine lobster rolls, and 'Today's Catch' where all catch is served broiled or grilled. Options are limited for non seafood eaters and even more so for vegans / vegetarians. All I could see was creamed spinach, steamed yukon gold potatoes, cole slaw and of course french fries ($ 4-5 each). 


If the ambience is old world, there is a large variety of food and beverages on offer, what is there not to like at Oyster Bar? To begin with, its the food! Like most American establishments, portion sizes were large but it was essentially broiled or fried food with no seasoning. And the most disappointing aspect was the service. Cold, slow and perfunctory. I wouldn't entertain a large group here since 18% gratuity is levied on groups or 6 or more. As it is, I found it very hard to leave the minimum expected tip here with the disappointing level of service provided. Also, the place is too noisy to enjoy a meal here. From old time loyalists to fooled tourists and everyone in between - all can be found here talking noisily, taking photographs and being generally boisterous.

With GCT centenary celebrations promising to be a grand affair, I am sure more hordes of people than ever before will be thronging Oyster Bar. For all the seafood lovers amongst them, I'd suggest you go elsewhere. Of the remaining, only those who need a respite from the cold should step into Oyster Bar for a drink and soak in the grandeur of the ambience. As for me, I am still learning not to fall into tourist traps.

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