This review has been a long time coming. Was in two minds to even write about the experience (who thinks seeing the Taj Mahal was a waste of time?). But here it goes anyways.
We were in San Sebastian after an exhilarating one week break in Sevilla where we were lucky to get reservation at short notice at Santo by Martin Berasategui (housed within the hip and happening Eme Catedral Hotel). Santo is a one Michelin-starred restaurant in its own right and we had ordered the a la carte menu thinking we'll save the chef's menu dinner experience for the original parent in Gipuzkoa.
The eponymous restaurant is in Gipuzkoa which is a short drive from the city centre of San Sebastian in the Basque Country in northern Spain. Provided you have your reservation confirmed, you are well advised to hire a self-driven car or book a return taxi for this outing. Let me re-emphasise, make your reservations well in advance (atleast a month before) to avoid disappointment. The three Michelin-star experience starts in the sleek reception area where your reservation is re-confirmed, jackets are deposited and any request for arranging a cab is taken care of. The main dining area (there is an outdoor area too which is closed in winters) is a large room with well spaced out tables and subdued lighting. In fact, the dishes are served in such a way that at all times the spotlight is on the food only and not on the diners. A very elegant touch indeed.
We were amongst the first diners on the day and within half an hour, all the tables were full. The irony of so many diners splurging on fine dining in a debt ridden country didn't escape me but on closer inspection, the diners were mostly British, American and Asians.
We went for the tasting menu (served in 12 courses) which is quite really the only way to enjoy the chef's innovative creations. Amongst the starters I cannot rave enough about the squid soup in creamy squid ink ravioli and served with squid crouton. Absolutely delicious. This was followed by oysters served with cucumber, sour fruit, coconut and kafir. The humble kafir leaves which are a staple in Thai cooking lent an exotic taste to the oysters. This is the kind of experimentation which has made Martin Berasategui the brand he is.
Up next were little pearls of raw fennel with risotto and emulsion. The dish was superlative for getting the emulsion just right. Mixing orient and occident with Basque cooking techniques is what I enjoyed in my next favourite course too - warm vegetable salad with seafood and cream of lettuce with iodized juice. A big part of the fine dining experience is presentation of the dishes and I was not disappointed. Even a seemingly simple dish like curdled seaweeds looked so appetizing with the tasteful presentation. The grilled sole with liquid chilli and smoked fish snout was just the dish needed to wrap up one of the most enjoyable meals I've had in sometime.
There was very little with the food which was not upto the mark. If I do have to point out something, it would be that the steak in spite of asking for medium-rare was quite rare (middle of the steak was very red). But that is a problem in all of Spain. If you want a particular degree of cooking, you'd be better off asking for one degree higher.
As was to be expected, the wine list is comprehensive and being true to his Basque roots, Martin Berasategui offers a good selection of Basque and Rioja wines which are reasonably priced at Eur 50-90 per bottle. The service is unobtrusive, discreet and world class. The waiters are attired in sleek black suits and speak most of the continental languages in addition to English of course.
The highlight of the evening was of course Martin coming out to meet his guests individually. We had an interesting chat with him where he expressed his happiness and curiosity (people have come from Singapore to dine at his family owned restaurant in little known Gipuzkoa!). Martin graciously signed the personalised menu cards which guests are expected to take home and also offered us a tour of his kitchen. I jumped at the opportunity and it was a splendid sight. On second thoughts, it hardly seemed like a kitchen with the area being as large as the restaurant itself with rows of gleaming steel sinks where fresh meat and produce is chopped and prepared. It was all ultra hygienic and glamourous if I can add. Martin is assisted by a battery of up and coming chefs who are learning the ropes from him and some have been with him for years. Which is what surprises me all the more - that after years of being at it and now having a group of professionals to aid him, Martin Berasategui still puts in all those hours in the kitchen and comes to meet his guests with a sparkle in his eye. Guess this is what they mean when they say choose a job you love and you will never have to work another day !
Now you can imagine why I was so reluctant to write this review. Martin Berasategui has set the fine dining bar very high and expectedly so, considering he is all-in a 7 Michelin starred chef. Go to Martin Berasategui if you love trying experimental cuisines and have deep pockets. Even if you don't have the latter, it is one of those things you want to save up for and savour a lifetime.
We were in San Sebastian after an exhilarating one week break in Sevilla where we were lucky to get reservation at short notice at Santo by Martin Berasategui (housed within the hip and happening Eme Catedral Hotel). Santo is a one Michelin-starred restaurant in its own right and we had ordered the a la carte menu thinking we'll save the chef's menu dinner experience for the original parent in Gipuzkoa.
The eponymous restaurant is in Gipuzkoa which is a short drive from the city centre of San Sebastian in the Basque Country in northern Spain. Provided you have your reservation confirmed, you are well advised to hire a self-driven car or book a return taxi for this outing. Let me re-emphasise, make your reservations well in advance (atleast a month before) to avoid disappointment. The three Michelin-star experience starts in the sleek reception area where your reservation is re-confirmed, jackets are deposited and any request for arranging a cab is taken care of. The main dining area (there is an outdoor area too which is closed in winters) is a large room with well spaced out tables and subdued lighting. In fact, the dishes are served in such a way that at all times the spotlight is on the food only and not on the diners. A very elegant touch indeed.
We were amongst the first diners on the day and within half an hour, all the tables were full. The irony of so many diners splurging on fine dining in a debt ridden country didn't escape me but on closer inspection, the diners were mostly British, American and Asians.
We went for the tasting menu (served in 12 courses) which is quite really the only way to enjoy the chef's innovative creations. Amongst the starters I cannot rave enough about the squid soup in creamy squid ink ravioli and served with squid crouton. Absolutely delicious. This was followed by oysters served with cucumber, sour fruit, coconut and kafir. The humble kafir leaves which are a staple in Thai cooking lent an exotic taste to the oysters. This is the kind of experimentation which has made Martin Berasategui the brand he is.
Up next were little pearls of raw fennel with risotto and emulsion. The dish was superlative for getting the emulsion just right. Mixing orient and occident with Basque cooking techniques is what I enjoyed in my next favourite course too - warm vegetable salad with seafood and cream of lettuce with iodized juice. A big part of the fine dining experience is presentation of the dishes and I was not disappointed. Even a seemingly simple dish like curdled seaweeds looked so appetizing with the tasteful presentation. The grilled sole with liquid chilli and smoked fish snout was just the dish needed to wrap up one of the most enjoyable meals I've had in sometime.
There was very little with the food which was not upto the mark. If I do have to point out something, it would be that the steak in spite of asking for medium-rare was quite rare (middle of the steak was very red). But that is a problem in all of Spain. If you want a particular degree of cooking, you'd be better off asking for one degree higher.
As was to be expected, the wine list is comprehensive and being true to his Basque roots, Martin Berasategui offers a good selection of Basque and Rioja wines which are reasonably priced at Eur 50-90 per bottle. The service is unobtrusive, discreet and world class. The waiters are attired in sleek black suits and speak most of the continental languages in addition to English of course.
The highlight of the evening was of course Martin coming out to meet his guests individually. We had an interesting chat with him where he expressed his happiness and curiosity (people have come from Singapore to dine at his family owned restaurant in little known Gipuzkoa!). Martin graciously signed the personalised menu cards which guests are expected to take home and also offered us a tour of his kitchen. I jumped at the opportunity and it was a splendid sight. On second thoughts, it hardly seemed like a kitchen with the area being as large as the restaurant itself with rows of gleaming steel sinks where fresh meat and produce is chopped and prepared. It was all ultra hygienic and glamourous if I can add. Martin is assisted by a battery of up and coming chefs who are learning the ropes from him and some have been with him for years. Which is what surprises me all the more - that after years of being at it and now having a group of professionals to aid him, Martin Berasategui still puts in all those hours in the kitchen and comes to meet his guests with a sparkle in his eye. Guess this is what they mean when they say choose a job you love and you will never have to work another day !
Now you can imagine why I was so reluctant to write this review. Martin Berasategui has set the fine dining bar very high and expectedly so, considering he is all-in a 7 Michelin starred chef. Go to Martin Berasategui if you love trying experimental cuisines and have deep pockets. Even if you don't have the latter, it is one of those things you want to save up for and savour a lifetime.
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