Lounge / Bar Review : Pur Pur, Zurich, Switzerland

Zurich might seem like a city only for business travellers on first impressions but all party-goers, don't lose heart. The city has plenty of bars, nightclubs and lounge bars (apart from private bankers) to hold your attention. The entire area around River Limmat is beautiful and pedestrianized (hence touristy). No shortage of places here to hang out at but the heart of Zurich night life lies in the Old Town (where the famous St. Peter's church is) with its innumerable bars and restaurants. If your idea of a night out is pub hopping, then this is the place to do it.

Having decided to meet some friends over dinner and drinks, we zeroed in on the exclusive and stylish district of Seefeld(strasse) which is not in the Old Town. Located close to the Zurich Opera House, this area too has quite a few bars and restaurants and we chose Pur Pur which looked appealing and came recommended from locals. Pur Pur is a restaurant by day and lounge / dance club by night. It is two minutes down the road from another popular (and awesome) restaurant : Trattoria and Soul. On entering the large indoor area,  Pur Pur strikes you with its bright Moroccan decor replete with low tables, divan like seating with large cushions, interesting artifacts and a packed bar counter. While the over all look is meant to be stylish and elegant, it comes across as a wee bit tacky. We didn't have reservations but the manager was kind enough to give us a dinner table since we had come in late (by Swiss standards) and that too on a weekday. The seating was uncomfortable for dinner since you have to bend really low towards the table to scoop the food and a backache is guaranteed. We subsequently moved to a table outdoors which was noisy but more practical for eating.

The menu offers a choice of Italian, Spanish, Mexican and Asian dishes. We opted for Nachos for starters and Thai Red Chicken Curry and Penne Pasta with Shrimps for the main course. There is only so wrong you can go with nachos and they along with the mains were super average. Very pub-fare like food with nothing to write home about. Starters at ~CHF 12 and mains at ~ CHF 28 per dish may seem expensive but as I discovered, Switzerland is expensive for F&B and Zurich more so. The service was extremely slow and we had to remind the waiter 2-3 times before our order came. Unfortunately, the friendly manager who had seated us was nowhere to be seen for the balance of our evening and rest of the staff was plain pathetic.

Pur Pur is known more for being a bar / lounge than a restaurant (despite the extensive food menu) and this was evident by the number of people who were there only for drinks. Keen to try Swiss wines (barely 1% Swiss wines are exported as most of them are consumed locally), we ordered a bottle of Swiss St. Saphorin 2009 from the Lavaux. This is a reasonably priced wine with excellent taste and we repeated a bottle of the same (and were not hung over the next day!)

Overall it was an enjoyable evening with friends but this was in no measure thanks to the terrible staff at Pur Pur who are arrogant and downright rude. I later learnt various other visitors have had the same experience at Pur Pur with respect to staff which didn't surprise me one bit. Just makes me wonder how does Pur Pur manage to feature in the 'World's Best Bars' list (yes they do!)? Best it definitely isn't or anywhere close to it. Apart from the location, I'am at a loss to think of another positive aspect of the place. There are other places in Zurich (highly recommend the Old Town bars) where you can better spend your time and money.

Restaurant Review : Varq at Taj Mansingh, New Delhi, India

'Varq' (meaning edible gold or silver foil used as a garnish in Indian cooking) at the Taj Mansingh is one of the newer additions to the Indian capital's culinary landscape and has replaced Haveli - the Anjoli Ela Menon adorned traditional Mughlai restaurant at Taj Mansingh which was an old favourite with yours truly.

A few friends recommended I check out Varq and on a chilly night last month thats precisely what I did. In these times of fusion food, I was not sure of what exactly to expect in master chef Hemant Oberoi's newest offering but with great enthusiasm nonetheless I made my dinner reservation.

The decor is minimalist, sophisticated albeit a bit dark (the Anjolie Ela menon works have been refurbished and continue to occupy pride of place). We were escorted to our table by the smiling Maitre'D and presented with the wine list and food menu.

I ordered the Louis Latour Ardeche Chardonnay 2010 (a wine recommended by the chef himself as a suitable pairing with the Varq cuisine). Yellowish in colour with a green tinge, the Ardeche has a lovely toasty bouquet : a smooth finish with crisp acidity. In my opinion, Indian food is best paired with white wines and that too precisely of this texture. At INR 2400 it is one of the more affordable options and complements the food beautifully.

The first appetizer to arrive was the Ganderi Kebab. It is a novel dish in that it is minced chicken with spices fried on a sugarcane stick and served in a shot glass with aam chur (dried mango powder). Innovative and delectable. I was tempted to order another round but refrained in favour of trying out more variety. Next to arrive were the Kebabs with Haleem (slow cooked minced meat cooked with lentils and spices). I was happy to note the traditional recipe has not been tampered with and the lentil-meat mixture and consistency was just perfect. Our final appetizer was the Mustard Prawns. Three large prawns seated on a bed of rice were a visual treat. This Bengali delicacy was prepared with the ideal mix of poppy and mustard seeds garnished with edamame beans. The excellent food thus far was giving me the sinking feeling that I should have fasted for a day or two before coming here !

Wanting to do full justice to the much renowned desserts, we ordered only one main course to share - murg sirka pyaaz with an assortment of breads like tandoori roti, missi roti and methi paratha. While the chicken preparation was good, if I have to choose a least favourite dish from the evening it would be this one. The breads were all excellent and the missi roti stood out.

Now onto my favourite part of the dinner. One look at the dessert trolley and I knew we had to go the whole hog. We ordered a portion each of the tille wali kulfi (good but not extraordinary), apple kheer (creative and tasty) and the house special - The Dome. The last is a signature creation of Varq and is a whole lot of chocolate served with a dash of flaming liqueur and topped with Bailey's flavoured rabri. Heavenly !

The service at Varq is discreet and sincere. The emphasis is clearly on the presentation of dishes. The delectable fare is stylishly crafted and presented in the most appealing manner. Chef Oberoi's culinary offerings using exotic ingredients will tantalize Indian and foreign taste buds alike. The food is in no way bland and the spice quotient is just right to be able to appreciate the tenderness of meat over strong condiments.

Varq is a beautiful restaurant on all counts and I would go back at the next instant. It is not exactly affordable fare (starters at approx INR 900 each) but considering this is fine dining, you are paying less than what some establishments charge in the same name. Be sure to save yourself a date with Varq to celebrate your next big occasion and you won't regret it.

Restaurant Review : Morton's The Steakhouse, Singapore

Up until a few years ago, a special evening out with friends or bosses usually meant Morton's at the Mandarin Oriental. This much venerated restaurant has maintained its look and clientele over the years. Iam not so sure about the food anymore and hence planned this latest trip to Morton's which came over a couple of years since my previous one.

If you are heading there on a weekend, reservations are a must. We were about 15 minutes late for our booking on a packed Friday evening but the Maitre d' was gracious enough not to mention it. Once seated, our assigned waitress came with the customary cling wrapped tray which showcases all the meats and cuts they are available in. This tradition has been a long held one at Morton's and I always find it amusing to go through the rigmarole of listening to the well-rehearsed, oft repeated and breathless narration of the day's specials by the waitress. Sure she'd be downing a glass of water after that 5-7 minute monologue !

We settled for a portion of the fillet mignon (single cut) and broiled salmon (yes, they do offer a fair bit of seafood) with a side portion each of asparagus and spinach with mushrooms. The wine list is exhaustive and I chose a bottle of Barolo from the Fontanafredda estate to give us company. This is a moderate intensity wine from the Piedmont region of northern Italy and has a lean texture with a peppery, blackberry flavour. Few people know the Fontanafredda estate is actually owned and run by a bank - Monte dei Paschi di Siena (which also has the unique distinction of being the world's oldest surviving bank)!

The medium rare steak and salmon promptly arrived. My choice of the above mentioned side portions hasn't changed in the years I've been eating at Morton's. For lovers of these vegetables, the preparation and portion size is a delight. Both are simply sauteed with just a hint of butter and I always seem to be inclined to finish these over my main course. The steaks at Morton are a hit and miss usually. Last time, it was great but this time it was ordinary. Cooked a bit too much I reckon going by the charred sides of the meat. The salmon was good but not exceptional. It was served in a lemon butter sauce and the inside was just too raw for me. The side portions saved the day and maybe the full house was to blame for the overcooked / undercooked food.

We ordered one portion of the legendary Morton's hot chocolate cake to share. And boy, did it make up for the main course experience. The gooey chocolate centre masked with another layer of moist chocolate is a treat for dessert lovers. There is just one word for the cake : Sinful.

The service at Morton's is unpredictable. If you are lucky, you can be served by an attentive waiter who'll figure out you are not enjoying your meal and promptly do something about it. For this reason lot of patrons give extra tips to waiters here. On other days, you'll have to make do with rushed waiters offering standard service which leaves you unhappy with the mandatory 10% service charge.

The portion size at Morton's is huge and thus their prices may seem high. But if you compare portion to portion prices, Morton's is not that expensive compared to other steak specialty restaurants. What is expensive however is the alcohol, side portions and desserts. I may not be returning anytime too soon precisely for that reason. For dropping ~SGD 450 in a night, I'd rather explore newer and more promising places.

Airline Review : Emirates

I have been a fan of Emirates since the first time I flew it. Iam sure passengers doing the Asia - US or Asia - Europe long haul will find the break at DXB a refreshing change apart from giving some stretching (and smoking) space.

What's going for the airline :-
1. The service is quite good from smooth check in process to inflight crew's helpful attitude to transit services desk to prompt baggage arrival on destination conveyor belt - it has all been flawless so far.
2. The aircraft fleet is quite young and on their A-380's the economy seats are comfortable with decent leg space (Qatar Airways is still the best for economy seat leg space).
3. Personalised entertainment system is fantastic and movies released 2 months back are available. There is a large selection of English, French and Indian movies to choose from.
4. Latest newspapers / magazines are available on request and range from Forbes to Harper's Bazaar. Crew will gladly get you newspapers and magazines from the business class section subject to availability.
5. The in-flight meals are amongst the better ones I've had. Choice of beverages is also pretty good.
6. On the Dubai - Europe route, the service seems to get even better. That is hardly surprising since Asian passengers are considered to be the most challenging set to cater to. However, the service leaves much to be desired on the Dubai-USA route.
7. EK pricing is just right. Unlike quite a few Middle East airlines, they haven't priced themselves too low to drive away spending tourists and business travellers. At the same time without paying extortionate fares, you avail world class service.

What could do with some help :-
1. Too much hand baggage is allowed to be carried onboard with the result your overhead cabin could well be full before you reach your seat.
2. Since Dubai is such a big shopping destination, inflight shopping doesn't offer any extraordinary deals.
3. The service on the Dubai-USA route is sub-average and the staff just doesn't seem to care.
4. If you don't fly the A-380 on the Dubai-Singapore or Dubai-USA route, be prepared for the old Boeing 777-300ER aircrafts which lack leg space, have small washrooms and whose business class also is quite a cramped affair.

Overall rating : 8.5/10. Since there really is no other competitor, between the two I rate EK higher than Singapore Airlines (SQ). SQ is far superior if you are a PPS Club member or travelling SQ business/first class but delivers a below-average experience in economy class. The onward excellent connectivity to US, Europe and Africa is a big reason to fly Emirates for all Asian long-haul travellers. I only hope their service consistency improves. As much as I recommend Emirates for Asian and European travel, I'll avoid it to go to USA.

Hotel Review : ITC Windsor Manor, Bengaluru, India

ITC Windsor Manor is the grand dame of Bengaluru ideally situated in a diplomatic area close to the business centre and golf course. The hotel has an old world charm reminiscent of the Raj era and its grounds are amongst the largest I have seen in any city hotel.

The check-in process was smooth though even after a couple of months of my visit, the Starwood points are still not reflecting in my statement. But this is a common grouse I have with most leading hotel chains like Hilton, Shangri La et al. They all need to be followed up with regarding credit of loyalty points. Back to Windsor Manor. They upgraded us to a room with a patio which afforded us to have tea, snacks, breakfast in the lush lawns of the hotel. The room was of a decent size but the bathroom could definitely have been bigger. The tub would be a squeeze for anyone taller than 5"2'. Toiletries are from the ITC owned Flama Di Wills. Mini bar was well stocked and a clothes horse is a nice touch for a business hotel. Bed is comfortable and like most deluxe hotels, a pillow menu is available for your special needs.

Breakfast is served in the greenhouse styled coffee shop - Raj Pavilion. A complete assortment of south Indian and continental dishes are served here. There are live cooking stations for eggs and dosas. The vadas (doughnut shaped deep fried snack) are amongst the best I've had anywhere. Apart from freshly squeezed juices, the choice of tender coconut was a welcome addition. Overnight soaked almonds kept on every table is another nice touch. All condiments are from ITC owned 'Kitchens of India' range which is yet another interesting example of ITC's internal cross-selling.

Fine dining is the highlight of any stay in an ITC hotel. Amongst all Indian hotel chains, I would consistently rank ITC #1 in the F&B department. Windsor Manor is no exception. They have as many as 3 specialty Indian / Mughlai restaurants apart from Raj Pavilion and Dublin (Irish pub). While we could not sample the fare at Dum Pukht Jolly Nabobs due to admission restrictions for children under 12 years, the same menu can be enjoyed at the poolside Royal Afghan restaurant. The menu here is similar to what you'd expect at Bukhara in New Delhi and the ambience (waiters dressed in Northern Frontier attire and guests being encouraged to eat with their hands with bibs placed around the neck) is similar as well minus the pool side open air setting. Apart from my usual gripe on wines being overpriced in India for which I cannot hold ITC responsible, I had no complaints with the food. We enjoyed the Bengaluru weather with Kastoori kabab (egg coated chicken kababs), Raan (lamb cooked in tandoor), Daal Makhani and naans alongwith desserts like phirni, kulfi. The service was attentive and discreet. Sensing one of the children was feeling cold and sleepy, a staff member promptly provided a pillow and blanket after making a 'bed' out of two chairs joined together. Service at its thoughtful best I would say.

I made a visit to Kaya Kalp - the spa at Windsor Manor and if there was one aspect of the hotel which was disappointing, this was it. I opted for the Ayurvedic Shirodhara treatment wherein a stream of medicated oil is poured continuously on the forehead followed by a head and face massage. The treatment if correctly done is absolute bliss and I've enjoyed quite a few of them in Kerala. The therapist was a Thai lady which is a surprise for an Ayurvedic treatment. Nothing wrong with her technique but communication was a bit of an issue. The oil seemed to be more scented than its original Kerala cousin. I guess some guests find the smell of the Kerala oils very overwhelming and Kaya Kalp has toned it down to the level of an aroma oil. The head massage was nothing out of the ordinary. I wouldn't be returning to the spa anytime soon.

Overall, I would rate ITC Windsor Manor 9/10 for being a hotel experience worth having in your kitty if you are gastronomically inclined and a demanding traveller. 

Book Review : The Joy of Living by Yongey Mingyur Rinpoche

I usually don't let bestseller lists dictate my reading picks but The Joy of Living is different. It also came recommended from a wide variety of readers who have one thing in common : not enjoying reading self-help books. And The Joy of Living is precisely that. It is anything but a self help book.

Yongey Mingyur Rinpoche is one of the new generation of Buddhist masters who have been trained mostly outside of Tibet and thus have insights into modern city life and all the pressures that come with it. It helps he is young, inquisitive and has a sense of humour. Yongey Mingyur has embarked on a quest to bridge the two seemingly polar worlds of meditation and neuroscience. Through being the subject himself of various scientific experiments and working closely with medical centres, Yongey Mingyur has sought to reinforce a fact we already know as a vague truth : a calm relaxed mind changes the neuronal patterns in our brains and positively impacts our health thereby making us more compassionate, mindful and less susceptible to physical diseases.

The first part of the book can get a bit boring with the details on different parts of the brain, their functions etc but if you meditate, it is useful to know which part of your brain is getting impacted and how. Part two of the book is its best and most practical part. It deals with meditation techniques in a simple succinct way. Most of us who have attempted meditation find it a hard habit to make and get frustrated by the whole practice thinking we're 'not doing it right'. This is where The Joy of Living fills a critical gap. Yongey Mingyur has outlined numerous ways of meditation based on each person's preferences. He advises people to meditate on form, taste, sound, sensation, whatever works for you. Especially helpful is the part on how to attain the seven point posture of Vairochana (aligning the body in a balanced way that allows the mind to remain relaxed and alert at the same time). Perhaps the most refreshing advice in the book regarding meditation is 'less is more'. Yongey Mingyur advises people new to meditation to start off with shorter sessions of two minutes, take a break, meditate another two minutes, take a break, and so on. With regular practice, you'll be able to meditate for longer periods.

A simple but powerful read, the book is written in an easy free flowing style with doses of wit and humour strewn about. It may oversimplify a few points, but that is a minor flaw in this otherwise enjoyable book. Highly recommend everyone out there with hectic schedules to spare some time to smell the roses (and read the book).

Restaurant Review : Martin Berasategui, San Sebastian, Spain

This review has been a long time coming. Was in two minds to even write about the experience (who thinks seeing the Taj Mahal was a waste of time?). But here it goes anyways.

We were in San Sebastian after an exhilarating one week break in Sevilla where we were lucky to get reservation at short notice at Santo by Martin Berasategui (housed within the hip and happening Eme Catedral Hotel). Santo is a one Michelin-starred restaurant in its own right and we had ordered the a la carte menu thinking we'll save the chef's menu dinner experience for the original parent in Gipuzkoa.

The eponymous restaurant is in Gipuzkoa which is a short drive from the city centre of San Sebastian in the Basque Country in northern Spain. Provided you have your reservation confirmed, you are well advised to hire a self-driven car or book a return taxi for this outing. Let me re-emphasise, make your reservations well in advance (atleast a month before) to avoid disappointment. The three Michelin-star experience starts in the sleek reception area where your reservation is re-confirmed, jackets are deposited and any request for arranging a cab is taken care of. The main dining area (there is an outdoor area too which is closed in winters) is a large room with well spaced out tables and subdued lighting. In fact, the dishes are served in such a way that at all times the spotlight is on the food only and not on the diners. A very elegant touch indeed.

We were amongst the first diners on the day and within half an hour, all the tables were full. The irony of  so many diners splurging on fine dining in a debt ridden country didn't escape me but on closer inspection, the diners were mostly British, American and Asians.

We went for the tasting menu (served in 12 courses) which is quite really the only way to enjoy the chef's innovative creations. Amongst the starters I cannot rave enough about the squid soup in creamy squid ink ravioli and served with squid crouton. Absolutely delicious. This was followed by oysters served with cucumber, sour fruit, coconut and kafir. The humble kafir leaves which are a staple in Thai cooking lent an exotic taste to the oysters. This is the kind of experimentation which has made Martin Berasategui the brand he is.

Up next were little pearls of raw fennel with risotto and emulsion. The dish was superlative for getting the emulsion just right. Mixing orient and occident with Basque cooking techniques is what I enjoyed in my next favourite course too - warm vegetable salad with seafood and cream of lettuce with iodized juice. A big part of the fine dining experience is presentation of the dishes and I was not disappointed. Even a seemingly simple dish like curdled seaweeds looked so appetizing with the tasteful presentation. The grilled sole with liquid chilli and smoked fish snout was just the dish needed to wrap up one of the most enjoyable meals I've had in sometime.

There was very little with the food which was not upto the mark. If I do have to point out something, it would be that the steak in spite of asking for medium-rare was quite rare (middle of the steak was very red). But that is a problem in all of Spain. If you want a particular degree of cooking, you'd be better off asking for one degree higher.

As was to be expected, the wine list is comprehensive and being true to his Basque roots, Martin Berasategui offers a good selection of Basque and Rioja wines which are reasonably priced at Eur 50-90 per bottle. The service is unobtrusive, discreet and world class. The waiters are attired in sleek black suits and speak most of the continental languages in addition to English of course.

The highlight of the evening was of course Martin coming out to meet his guests individually. We had an interesting chat with him where he expressed his happiness and curiosity (people have come from Singapore to dine at his family owned restaurant in little known Gipuzkoa!). Martin graciously signed the personalised menu cards which guests are expected to take home and also offered us a tour of his kitchen. I jumped at the opportunity and it was a splendid sight. On second thoughts, it hardly seemed like a kitchen with the area being as large as the restaurant itself with rows of gleaming steel sinks where fresh meat and produce is chopped and prepared. It was all ultra hygienic and glamourous if I can add. Martin is assisted by a battery of up and coming chefs who are learning the ropes from him and some have been with him for years. Which is what surprises me all the more - that after years of being at it and now having a group of professionals to aid him, Martin Berasategui still puts in all those hours in the kitchen and comes to meet his guests with a sparkle in his eye. Guess this is what they mean when they say choose a job you love and you will never have to work another day !

Now you can imagine why I was so reluctant to write this review. Martin Berasategui has set the fine dining bar very high and expectedly so, considering he is all-in a 7 Michelin starred chef. Go to Martin Berasategui if you love trying experimental cuisines and have deep pockets. Even if you don't have the latter, it is one of those things you want to save up for and savour a lifetime.

Hotel Review : Palacio de Villapanes, Sevilla, Spain

Sevilla is a town easily covered on foot and you are best off booking a hotel which is close to the Giralda and yet in a quiet neighbourhood (considering Sevilla has a booming nightlife scene). I was torn initially between booking this hotel and Corral Del Rey both of which are located in the quieter Jewish quarter of Seville. After much debate, I went with Palacio de Villapanes (we subsequently crossed Corral Del Rey while walking and the location of Palacio is far better). The hotel is a real treat for the senses. It is an old palace converted into a hotel by the Alma group, one of Spain's leading hotel chains.

The hotel consists of the original palace structure and a new building constructed around the courtyard. The new structure has also been designed in the old palacio style and the rooms are large, airy and private. Our room was in the new building and we did not complain. Since the reception, concierge services etc are located in the original building, those rooms are noisier I believe. The hotel offers complimentary minibar services (icluding alcoholic beverages) which is a nice touch. Wish more hotels did that!
The dressing area is separated from the room by a curtain and divided into the toilet, shower cubicle and dressing area. Bvlgari products in the bathroom was another nice touch. Towels are amongst the fluffiest I've used and the showering options were overwhelming (over 4 types of showers).

The hotel has only one restaurant for formal dining located in the original building. It is a small area and the menu is limited considering the restaurant offers fine Andalusian dining using only the freshest seasonal produce. We had one meal there and were not disappointed with the food. The limited but good selection of Rioja wines was another feature.

Breakfast is the best part of Palacio de Villapanes. It is served in their basement restaurant (no windows but it doesn't feel stuffy) and is included in your room rate. The buffet spread is fantastic and all kinds of juices / beverages are available including Cava (if you can handle it in the morning). The restaurant also has a la carte menu from which you can order breakfast items. These are also included in your room rate and the only reason they are in a menu is because they require additional cooking time. It is the first time I have seen menu items being included in a buffet breakfast price and can only marvel at how seriously the management takes care of the comfort of guests before everything else. The staff is very helpful and encourage you to order items from the menu since the portions are small.

We extensively used the concierge services at the hotel to book a car, take sightseeing information, book cruise tickets, book Flamenco show tickets etc. Nothing was too much trouble for them and the staff was fantastic. Ever smiling and ever ready to help.

Overall, Palacio de Villapanes is all that a 5 star deluxe hotel should be and more. They raise the bar significantly for deluxe hotels in Europe where service and hotel standards are usually poor. Palacio de Villapanes offers all that the discerning traveller wants. Don't even consider booking another hotel in Sevilla.

Restaurant Review : India Grill, Hilton Garden Inn, New Delhi, India

The newly opened Hilton Garden Inn in Delhi enjoys a good location within Saket's popular DLF Place Mall. The hotel has a basic business-like look totally lacking in character.

After some shopping in the mall, decided to check out Garden Inn for lunch. They have only one restaurant - India Grill located on the first floor. On walking into the place, the open layout and bar area is impressive. It was a weekday and only a few tables were taken. We ordered Hoegaarden draught beer along with our mains. The beer was not chilled and from thereon this culinary journey went only downhill.

Iam amazed at how standard coffee shop meal items can go so wrong in a hotel. The chicken kathi roll was barely warm, tasteless and the bread too hard with hardly any egg being put into the bread. The staple fare of coffee shops : fish and chips was another disaster waiting to happen. When the dish arrived, I nearly sent it back since it looked like anything but fish and chips. The fish meat was hard and over fried to the extent of being darkest brown in colour. Chips were oily and stale. Even the good old plain dosa was not spared. The batter smelt stale and the sambhar was all tomato.

The restaurant levies a service charge (maybe it is their way of penalising people for making their chef work). At INR 4,000 for the above items, India Grill is pricey for the abysmal food and drinks they offer.

Do yourself a big favour. Stay away.