Sunday, 23 December 2012

Hotel Review : The Library Hotel, New York City, USA

Finding a good hotel in New York City is a challenge on multiple fronts. You want it all : a good location, easy access to Subway and tourist attractions, reasonable rates (reasonable and NYC - you got to be kidding!) and above all, a space larger than an attic to justify the price tag. A few freebies such as complimentary breakfast would be nice but hey, this is The Big Apple and we were going on Thanksgiving weekend. We couldn't have it all and that too at start of peak season. After a lot of internet searches, city guides and friends' recommendation, I settled for The Library Hotel at Madison Avenue for our 4 night stay. 

I had a few queries and opted to book via email rather than the hotel's web engine. My first email was swiftly responded to by Timothy Gerhold who was great to deal with over the next few days. With the booking quickly out of the way, he was immensely helpful with advice and even gave us a post-Sandy update. NYC room sizes are infamous and with our luggage, we opted to upgrade to the Queen size bed. Surprise of surprises, American breakfast was part of our package and this is no mean freebie to get in American hotels. It seems we did manage to get it all at a busy time of the year !

After a gruelling 2 hour immigration queue at JFK, we managed to reach Library Hotel by 5 pm. The hotel is located a few steps from the New York Public Library and has an unassuming entrance on the uber posh Madison Avenue. Check-in was smooth with the staff informing us the hotel offers free wi-fi throughout the premises. The second floor book lounge is open all day serving breakfast in the mornings and hosting a complimentary wine and cheese reception daily from 5 pm to 8 pm. The Library Hotel is themed around books and even the rooms are numbered according to the Dewey decimal system. We had requested for a higher floor to avoid the city traffic noise and thankfully our request was fulfilled. We were in the 'paranormal' themed room 1100.005. The bed was clean and comfortable and the bathroom was relatively spacious. An abundance of books dealing with the paranormal theme line the room. I really liked the way standard 'Do Not Disturb' and 'Please Make my Room' room tags were replaced with the more quirky 'Shh... I am reading' and 'Please Dust my Books' tags. 

The breakfast is sumptuous and includes cereals, fruits, hard boiled eggs and breads which will be toasted on request. Fresh orange juice and other beverages are also available. The real winner was the evening wine and cheese reception which offered a selection of white, red and sparkling wine (Prosecco). These are accompanied by nibbles such as sesame sticks, soft buns and butter and of course, cheese of a few types. The lounge is a wonderfully done up area with a wide selection of books, daily newspapers and plenty of magazines. If it weren't for the call of of the city, we could have spent hours at The Library Hotel soaking in the books. We dined one day at the 'Madison and Vine' restaurant which was as top-class as the hotel. Dishes are appropriately sized, decently priced and service is unobtrusive and efficient. We really enjoyed the Mushroom Ravioli (($19) and the generous portion of Atlantic Salmon ($26). We also paid a fleeting visit to 'Bookmarks', the rooftop lounge at The Library Hotel. With its cosy ambience and covered / al fresco seating, it looked to be a popular hang-out for the Wall Street type crowd.

The staff at Library Hotel is undoubtedly its best asset. From the bell boy Adrian to front office staff David, Kerrie and many others whose names I cannot recall were wonderful. Everyone was very helpful and offered excellent recommendations for planning our itinerary and what I liked most of all was that unlike most American establishments, no one was pushy for tips. The Library staff was genuinely warm and one felt like tipping them generously for the flawless service they offered. Coming from Asia, my expectations from American hotels and hospitality standards were quite low but the Library Hotel not only ticked all boxes but left me very impressed.

Library is definitely my return-to hotel in New York City. With Grand Central Station - 42nd Street at your doorstep and Times Square a few blocks comfortably away, this exclusive East Side address is all one needs to soak in the magic of New York City. I highly recommend you to stop chasing frequent visitor points at Hilton / Marriott / Hyatt etc and check into this boutique property for a large juicy slice of the Big Apple. 

Saturday, 15 December 2012

Restaurant Week 2012 Review : Gaia at Goodwood Park Hotel, Singapore

I somehow missed out on writing about what was undoubtedly my discovery of 2012 in Singapore. So here it goes. I have previously mentioned while reviewing The Knolls that the main objective of Restaurant Week (RW) is to attract new clientele by offering a glimpse of a full menu at a discounted price. Having previously been let down by The Knolls, we stepped into Gaia at Goodwood Park Hotel with close to zero expectations.

From the time we walked in, we were impressed with the attention we received. We were asked to wait for a few minutes whilst our table was being made ready. To be fair to them, we did arrive a good ten minutes early for our booking. There is a bar at the entrance which doubles up as a waiting space and you really don't mind hanging around this very cozy corner. Gaia is a nicely laid out restaurant which gives off an aura of exclusivity. There is an outdoor seating option available overlooking the car park so not much of a view there. The place was packed to the gills and we were shown to a nice quiet table towards the end of the restaurant.

Gaia is owned by the same group that runs Oso and Absinthe. Our pre-set RW menu was quite sumptuous with 4 courses being followed by choice of coffee or tea. We started off with pan fried scallops with carrots and balsamic sauce which tasted much better than it sounds. This was followed by lip-smacking ravioli filled with pumpkin cream, sauteed S. Daniele ham and butter sauce. For the main course, I opted for the Oceanic Trout fillet innovatively cooked in a paper bag with cherry tomatoes and 'taggiasche' olives. This was simply fantastic and probably the first time I've had a fish fillet preparation when it is not just plain steamed or fried. My husband opted for the slow cooked wagyu beef with thyme mash potato and braised mushrooms for his main course and this was quite decent. We rounded off with a portion of chocolate and hazelnut mousse with  pistachio sauce and hazelnut crumble. Not the best dessert I've had but definitely the best I've seen being offered on a RW menu.

I would rate service at Gaia as superlative and very personalized to the extent you feel there is one manager allocated per table. Our assigned manager Miguel Pereira was a complete gentleman who couldn't apologize enough when my glass of champagne hadn't arrived for twenty minutes. He offered a complimentary glass of Prosecco to make up for the service lapse and I found that incredibly remarkable considering this was RW and we were paying a slashed price of SGD 55++ per pax for the food (and super premium service). Miguel has previously worked with Singapore Airlines in their business / first class lounge division and that explained his knowledge of discreet and top-notch service.

A quick glance at the a la carte menu revealed mains ranging from SGD 22-40 which is far more reasonable than what non-hotel Italian restaurants charge minus the ambience and service. Regarding prices of drinks, I have to say they looked relatively reasonable with the French bubbly costing SGD 12 vis-a-vis the atrocious SGD 30 I paid for it at The Knolls at Capella! My husband was pleasantly surprised to find his favourite gin : Hendrick's (SGD 17) available on the menu since most restaurant bars don't stock it.

Like I have already mentioned Gaia is the discovery of the year for me in Singapore. It scores a hat trick on all 3 counts - ambience, food and service which undoubtedly is the best I've experienced anywhere in Singapore. I have since returned to Gaia already and Miguel has remembered our meal preferences. Let me add here that we've become fans of the Prawn Gamberoni and Tagliatelle with Lobster in Tomato Sauce (SGD 40 each). Italian wines are very attractively priced and the highly rated 2007 Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino can be yours at Gaia for SGD 90. If you are wondering about corkage, you have to purchase one bottle for every bottle you bring of your own. You might want to skip desserts as the Triple Layered Sponge Cake and Tiramisu both have missed my expectations. Your DBS credit card should get you a 15% discount on your total bill. I am game for yet another visit to Gaia as soon as it can happen and look forward to being back here.

Sunday, 9 December 2012

Lounge/Bar Review : Blue Note Jazz Club, New York City, USA

Sorry for being MIA. Was spending some time on East Coast lapping up the pleasures of Uncle Sam's land.

I like jazz. Unfortunately, I don't get enough opportunities to cultivate this interest in Asia. While in NYC recently, I heard David Sanborn was playing at a jazz club - 'Blue Note' in the Village. I did a double flip and immediately booked our table.

Situated in the hip Greenwich village area right next to the W 4th Street Subway stop, Blue Note has an unpretentious exterior. We walked in just before 8 pm and were really lucky to get a table bang in front of the stage. Note that Blue Note is set up as a performance venue with the stage being surrounded by U-shaped seating. The club has performances scheduled daily at 8 pm and 10:30 pm and a Sunday jazz brunch with performances at 12:30 pm and 2:30 pm.

We were quickly seated just in time for the start of David Sanborn's show and it was a fully packed house with some guests still waiting in queue. For those in the dark, David Sanborn is one of America's most famous saxophonists who does a wonderful blend of jazz with instrumental Pop and R&B. Were we privileged to find him playing in NYC during our trip! He had just returned from Tokyo that morning but the 67 years old Sanborn's mind blowing performance gave none of the jet lag away.

Blue Note runs on a concert concept and per head charges range from $10 to $45 for A-list performances like David Sanborn's. If you do not intend to have a meal, you can enjoy a show seated at the bar which costs lesser but doesn't offer as clear a view of the stage. Each seat is sold out for top performances and by that I literally mean each seat. Be prepared to share your table with other couples as charges are per head and no seat goes unsold. True to its slogan of being the 'best jazz club and restaurant in the world', Blue Note has good lighting, sound acoustics coupled with a superior line-up of artists. Apart from Jazz, Blues, R&B, Latin and Hip Hop acts also are a regular feature here. For those who are interested, the December line-up includes Kendra Ross, Medeski Martin & Wood and Chris Botti who has been integral in making Blue Note the legend it has become. The much acclaimed American trumpeter will be performing at Blue Note through Christmas and New Year's for the eighth year running from Dec 17th to Jan 6th. 

One doesn't go to Blue Note for the food. It is expensive though the portion sizes are generous like everywhere in the US. We ordered a Baked Lemon Sole accompanied with steamed asparagus ($31) which was delicious and a 'Today's Special' dish of Shrimp Avocado Sandwich ($18) which was decent. The menu also offers regular items like Vegan styled Farfalle Pasta, Rigatoni Pasta, Seared Red Snapper etc priced in the $22-$28 range. Drinks are expensive too with a glass of sparkling wine (not Champagne) at $10. Service is prompt and efficient though like most American establishments, cold and impersonal.

Blue Note is rightfully regarded as one of the best jazz venues in the world and I would thoroughly recommend it for all jazz lovers and non-lovers alike. This is the place which will convert you. Blue Note 
has a well-earned reputation of being amongst the world's priciest jazz clubs but this is money well spent. Reservations are highly recommended and I can only look forward to being back here. Soon.

Tuesday, 13 November 2012

Book Review : In Cold Blood by Truman Capote

'In Cold Blood' by Truman Capote (Breakfast at Tiffany's) has been on my reading list for a long time. I finally got around to reading it a few weeks back and well, I am still thinking about the book. The book deals with a true crime that was 'investigated' by a private individual and the resulting investigations may have impacted the punishment meted out to the culprits.

'In Cold Blood' details the story of four members of the Clutter family residing in Holcomb, Kansas in the late 1950's who were gruesomely murdered in their home, one after the other. There was no apparent motive for the crime and it was a seemingly perfect murder with almost no clues left behind. Truman Capote apparently read a short newspaper article carrying news of the murder and was so intrigued by the chain of events, that he along with his close friend Harper Lee (of 'To Kill a Mockingbird' fame) set off to Holcomb to research the facts. What followed was copious amounts of research, numerous interviews with Holcomb residents and gathering as much information about the Clutter family as was possible. Capote then goes on to reconstruct the murder, the ensuing police investigation including the arrest, trial and finally execution of the killers.

What stands out about 'In Cold Blood' is that the outcome / identity of killers is known from the start but still Capote manages to build suspense. I kept turning the pages in sheer awe, disgust, astonishment and anger in turns. Capote has clearly taken some liberties in doing his 'factual assessment' of the situation and the book should not be read as a 100% factual account. Omission of the surviving members' account of the situation coupled with questionable detailed insight into the killers' behavior and mannerisms makes one think Capote had prize winning aspirations at the back of his mind from the onset of this book's journey. However, full credit must be given where it is due. Capote has managed to achieve the seemingly impossible : create some sympathy for the murderers while detailing minute details of a murder committed in the coldest blood.

'In Cold Blood' became the greatest crime seller of its time and is considered a cult classic of its genre. It also created significant controversy with regard to Capote's excessive involvement in an ongoing legal case and whether his involvement may have impacted the judicial process. The fact that Capote 'benefited' from the misfortune of an innocent family also tends to play on one's mind.  Despite the criticism 'In Cold Blood ' continues to be regarded highly in the non-fiction crime-writing genre. The 2012 horror movie 'Sinister' has Ethan Hawke explaining to his wife why he must undertake his current venture and how it could be his 'In Cold Blood moment.' Such is the aura of Capote's book. It is undoubtedly heavy reading and may not appeal to all readers. But it will leave you thinking. 

Tuesday, 6 November 2012

Restaurant Week 2012 Review : The Knolls at Capella Hotel, Singapore

I've been a regular at Singapore Restaurant Week for few years now. The objective of Restaurant Week (RW) is to attract new clientele by showcasing a fixed menu at an attractive price. Once your customers are hooked, they will get sticky and pay the regular meal price - that is the thinking. Hence, you have RW dinners priced at SGD 35++ per person. Gourmet restaurants charge a premium for their menu and will set you back by SGD 55++ per person. Considering a 'discounted' meal for 2 at a gourmet restaurant will set you back by SGD 150 atleast including taxes, you look for a superlative experience when you make your RW reservation. On going through the list, I saw quite a few new upscale entrants this year and decided to give one of them a try.

We headed to the much touted and talked about 'The Knolls' at Capella Hotel. From the moment we walked in, we knew this would be an average evening. The restaurant was practically empty save couple of tables which were occupied by RW diner groups. It is a testimony to the restaurant's popularity that even with 'discounted' prices, the place wore a deserted look. The gracious Maitre d' showed us to our table set in the furthest corner of the restaurant. The smiling staff walked us through the RW menu. We started off with a glass of Taittinger Brut (champagne) each priced at a whopping SGD 30++! First course of creamy soup with foie gras filled ravioli was served promptly and was delicious. I had a small gripe with the service timing. My husband had to take an urgent business call which kept him busy for about fifteen minutes during which time the soup was served. By the time he got back to the table, the soup had cooled down considerably and the staff did not bother to ask if we wanted it re-heated. Anyways, this was a minor irritant with the otherwise flawless service. The main course consisted of risotto with a fillet of sea bass. The portion size was small and the preparation itself was just decent. If there are other choices, I would probably not order the dish again if I went back to The Knolls for a regular meal. The final course was creme brulee served with mango sorbet which was good but nothing to rave about.

Overall, I was unimpressed with The Knolls. Capella is a world class property which reeks of understated opulence with its classic architecture and immaculately kept grounds. The Knolls however does not give off a similar vibe probably due to its standard coffee shop decor. The layout is quite boxy and tables are placed very closed to one another. There is an option to sit outdoors which should be taken up on a breezy day. Apart from the prices, nothing is first class about The Knolls. The service is attentive and polite but the crux of the matter, i.e., the food leaves a lot to be desired. If the RW menu was a showcase for Capella's culinary expertise, I am disappointed. Its hard to believe this 3 star food is the best 7 star Capella could come up with.

Tuesday, 30 October 2012

Restaurant Review : Tres, New Delhi, India

On a recent trip to New Delhi, I noticed a sea change on the demographic and gastronomic front. Till a few years back, 'expatriate' was a term used to denote the embassy / diplomatic mission crowd residing in Chanakyapuri and shopping at Khan Market. But today, a lot of foreigners working for multinational corporations, supranational entities like World Bank and UN are calling Delhi home. I saw them shopping comfortably in crowded Lajpat Nagar while being equally at ease in the sophisticated environs of India Habitat Centre. This demographic change, coupled with an increasingly better travelled Indian has resulted in plenty of specialty restaurants, quaint delis, all day breakfast diners and European style cafes sprouting in the capital. On a landscape already dotted with restaurants offering multiple cuisines, this international influx is more than welcome.

Friends invited me to lunch and suggested the newly opened Tres in Lodhi Colony market. I initially baulked at the suggestion going only by the address. Childhood memories flashed through my mind when Lodhi Colony market used to have ten or so structured shops selling optical wear etc. The nearby Meherchand market was the go-to market for buying school books, renting fancy dress outfits for school functions and was primarily central Delhi's 'wedding market' along with Bhogal where you could hire mattresses, music systems, and 'shamianas' (bright red and green colored tents used for hosting wedding and traditional functions). You get the picture. And my friends were inviting me to Lodhi Colony market for a nice lunch? I was confused and not too inclined but the friends insisted I should check out the new revamped area for a pleasant surprise. And boy, was I surprised! Meherchand market is the new Khan market with its glitzy shops, designer boutiques and some outright swish stores. I drove onto my destination in Lodhi Colony market and well, was happy to see the ten shops still there except that now one of them houses the uber chic European eatery, Tres.

Tres (meaning three in Spanish) is a 3 month old restaurant founded by 3 chefs / restaurateurs - Jatin, Julia and Fatima. Jatin previously worked at the popular Zest restaurant in Delhi and has had cooking stints in London and Mumbai. Once inside Tres, one feels they have been transported to a Parisian cafe. Contrary to its name, Tres does not offer Spanish food. The only thing Spanish about it are the portion sizes at lunch which can qualify as tapas. On any given day, one of the three affable owners are on premises exchanging notes with their patrons. I took an immediate liking to the ambience. The cosy 50 seater eatery has been done up in shades of brown and black with a bright ceiling. The sofas are a tad soft and you tend to sink into them. Not a comfortable place when you have to have an entire meal sitting on them. A well stocked bar stands at the corner end and where the last tables are placed, you are able to get a good look at the glass paneled kitchen.

We arrived for lunch and were informed the lunch menu changes daily. Fresh ingredients, season's produce and catch of the day is important to the owner chefs and hence the daily menu change. The menu is quite exhaustive and intelligently designed. Apart from being a light meal, lunches are often kitty party affairs in Delhi where big groups like to try multiple dishes. Hence you have the menu offering small and big portions of vegetarian (INR 319 / INR 399) and non-vegetarian dishes (INR 359 / INR 419).

We started off with sun dried tomatoes and goat cheese bruschetta with caramelized onion and pickled artichokes which was simply excellent. Next to come were the garlic and parsley shrimps which were nicely done with beans on brioche in a creamy dill sauce. The chicken burgers were decent and the size is just right : 2 small burgers instead of one lumpy burger. I was a bit sceptical about seafood in landlocked Delhi but the duet of rainbow cod and sea bass fillet sounded good. And it was. One minor gripe was the fish being served with skin. I prefer it without the skin or with the skin cooked and placed as a sliver on the main fillet making it easy to peel away. We ordered thyme flavored grilled vegetables on the side (INR 99) which were strictly ok. The broccoli didn't taste fresh and in fact had a slight 'cold storage' aftertaste. The parsley roast potatoes made for a good side order though. As I mentioned above, the portion sizes are small in a good way. You can order more dishes from the expansive menu and thereby try different flavors and tastes.

For desserts, we ordered warm carrot cake which was quite nice. It had a generous smattering of dry fruits which is a rarity these days. My yardstick for measuring dessert quality is how well a place does warm chocolate brownies. I prefer my chocolate brownies to be gooey without any nuts in it. Tres' brownies had nuts in them but the taste is quite nice. The brownies come with vanilla ice cream and fudge sauce. The dessert selection is again quite extensive and at INR 320 is priced well.

Tres has a small but decent wine selection. They have steered clear of trying to do the balancing act between offering reasonably priced Indian wines and affordable European wines which are really cooking wines being sold in India. The wines are predominantly French / Italian and are priced in the range of INR 2500-4000.

Tres is busier in the evenings. Lunch is not a big affair in Delhi which is not a surprise given that the city's businesses are up and running only around 12 noon! However, this is a double edged sword and for foodies out there who like a good meal in a quality ambience, making it to Tres for lunch might just be the best idea. Service is strictly ok and offers immense scope for improvement. I hope Tres is able to smoothen out these small rough ends sooner rather than later. In the fiercely competitive gourmet world, you don't often get a second chance. Tres is off to a flying start and I look forward to being back here.

Monday, 15 October 2012

Restaurant Review : Pasta Brava, Singapore

Italian food is divine and having Italian food in Italy is a privilege of a special kind. I guess by the same yardstick, having it anywhere outside of Italy should take away significantly from the experience? Well, in my opinion it does. Whilst you can replicate the recipes with local or air flown vegetables, meats and cheeses, what cannot be replicated is the homely atmosphere of a trattoria, the owner bustling around to check all is in order and the sheer delight of walking from the chilly outdoors into the warm, cosy interiors of a mama's kitchen with a glass of Chianti red to give you company. Ah bliss!

In my quest to find the closest cousin to the above Italian atmosphere, I have relentlessly pursued Italian restaurants in Singapore's hot and humid climate. Whilst I've enjoyed some places for their food, others have been big let downs on all counts from service to food to the faux ambience. I had almost given up hope of having a hearty Italian meal in Singapore till I discovered Pasta Brava.

Tucked away in quiet Craig Road close to the business district and newly rejuvenated area of Duxton Hill, Pasta Brava is easy to miss. Housed in a charming shophouse, Pasta Brava's decor is classic Italian. All you see from the outside are glass paned windows through which smiling faces of diners catch your eye with much more gravitas than any 'Buy 1 Get 1 Free' billboard could ever do. On entering the restaurant, the vibrancy of the place almost takes you aback. Walls are adorned with paintings by the owner's brother and colourful drawings by former and current patrons. There is a choice of ground floor and first floor seating and I much prefer the former to soak in the ambience. Pasta Brava's ever-smiling owner, Rolando Luceri is on premises each time I've been there and is a perfect gentleman. Soft spoken with a heavy Italian accent, which is a bit of a surprise since he has been in Singapore for more than 40 years. Yes, you read that right - Forty years! A hotelier by experience, he has worked extensively in Asia including a long stint with the Oberoi group in India.

Now to the raison d'etre for my visits. The food menu is quite exhaustive. A staple order has always been the fried Calamari Fritti (SGD 16) which is simply wow. Another delicious appetizer - Prawns Gamberi (SGD 17) - is highly recommended for its butter garlic mix with a dash of brandy. Pasta Brava offers a range of regular pasta dishes as well as an assortment of home-made pastas. If you like your pasta with seafood, you've come to the right place. The Stracci Al Gamberi (pasta with prawns in saffrom cream sauce  priced at SGD 23) is just what your dietician asked you to stay away from. Wee bit extra creamy but absolutely lip smacking. Spaghetti with clams (SGD 19) is another favourite of mine. The generous portion of clams has to be the largest I've seen in a pasta dish in Singapore. Another seafood pasta of crab meat topped with a sliver of red mullet is nice but at SGD 30 seems overpriced. If you like fish cooked the Italian way like I do, give either the sea-bass fillet in lemon sauce or the John Dory with olives (SGD 28 each) a try. You'll not be disappointed.

Pasta Brava has a relatively small wine list vis-a-vis other Italian joints in Singapore. However, the prices are reasonable. There is a good variety of Chianti Classico's in the SGD 90-120 range. What makes the wine menu special is the availability of wines from Friuli, Abruzzo, Campania regions of Italy which usually don't show up on other fancier wine menus. Now for the desserts. A must-try is the super yummy chocolate lava cake served with vanilla ice cream (SGD 12). Sadly, the tiramisu and panna cotta (SGD 10 each) are strictly okay. The portion sizes are decent but the preparation lacks authentic taste which is a pity because these desserts are typically whipped up by Rolando or one of the family members themselves.

Did I mention the tables are covered with white chart paper and crayons are provided as well ? You are encouraged to make drawings (vivid drawings on walls testify to talents of previous diners) and if you are bereft of any such talent, the chart paper is used by waiters to note your main course order thus eliminating any confusion. The service is cheerful and efficient. With Rolando around, it is tough to have a bad service experience here.

I highly recommend a trip to Pasta Brava for a dinner with friends or even a romantic date. If you are looking for a high flying corporate entertainment kind of venue, this is not the best choice. However, if it is genuine Italian food in a setting that oozes soul and charm that you crave, Pasta Brava beckons. Till your next vacation takes you to Italy, getting to Craig Road will have to suffice.

Monday, 8 October 2012

Book Review : You'll Never Walk Alone by Debbie Singh

In the world of pulp fiction, Bangkok and crime are inextricably linked. Whilst the city is infamous for its safety record, it is also home to the infamous 'Bangkok Hilton', one of the most notorious prisons this side of the Atlantic. Australian boutique owner cum housewife Debbie Singh's book is set around the true story of her brother John who is charged with committing cheque forgery and slapped with a ten year prison sentence in Thailand's Klong Prem prison. The book narrates the tale of how Debbie campaigned hard for her brother to be granted a Royal Pardon from the Thai king and be transferred to an Australian prison to serve the remainder of his sentence - an event hitherto unknown in the absence of a Thai-Australian Prisoner Transfer Treaty.

This is essentially the story of a sister's love for her brother and the travails she goes through for his freedom's sake. The book also offers readers insights into Debbie's family which originally hailed from Liverpool in England and subsequently migrated to Australia. They are shown as a tightly knit unit which doesn't think twice before lending Debbie their whole hearted support in fighting for the cause of an 'adopted' child. John happens to also have a Thai born son and a wife who has deserted him adding to his rocky life. The book ends with a slight twist in the tale which is not entirely unexpected.

The book makes for a decent quick read. It offers good insights into Thai society and the prevalence of Farang (Foreigner) related crimes in Thailand. There are enough foreigners living in Thailand featured in this book to make you forget occasionally you are reading about Thai prisons and their inmates! The book's language is amateurish which is not surprising given this is a first person account from someone who is not a writer. I have two main contentions with the book. One is that the author assumes a very dominating tone in the book coupled with a seemingly God-given right to classify crimes as petty or serious based on her own view of them rather than how the law sees them. Repeatedly in the book, Debbie makes reference to how her brother has been given such a harsh sentence for committing 'such a stupid crime' as cheque forgery. Well, in my opinion law makers are not stupid when they come up with ten year sentences for cheque forgery. It must be a problem of some magnitude in Thailand to warrant such a serious sentence. I view it as imprudence on a foreign national's part to comment so emphatically on another country's legal system especially when their own kin is involved in a crime there. Another aspect which ticked me off is the marketing line for the book - 'A true story about the Bangok Hilton.' Klong Prem prison where John was lodged is NOT the Bangkok Hilton. It is the other Bangkok prison - Bang Kwang - that houses prisoners imprisoned for extremely serious offences and where executions are carried out, which is the notorious 'Bangkok Hilton.' I am not a fan of authors who resort to cover page gimmicks to sell their books.

Overall, I can only recommend 'You'll Never Walk Alone' for light reading. It may sound bizarre since the book deals with a very serious subject but it is the half-baked treatment of this very subject which renders this a breezy read. 

Sunday, 30 September 2012

Random 3's in Singapore - Part I

A lot of my daily experiences don't merit full reviews and so i've just encapsulated them here.
P.s. The ranking is in order of being my favourite.

Top 3 coffee outlets in Singapore for having the best roasted beans at great prices :-

1. San Francisco Coffee at Phillip Street
2. Kith Cafe at Robertson Quay
3. Black's at 311 Somerset and Hitachi Tower (CBD)

Top 3 dessert places which will really satisfy that sweet tooth albeit at a price :-

1. Laurent Bernard Chocolatier at Robertson Quay
2. Da Paolo Dolci at Jalan Merah Saga
3. The Scoop Shop (Holland Village and Clementi) and Cold Stone Creamery are tied for best ice creams in town

Worst 3 burger joints in Singapore for selling overpriced small burgers which don't taste fresh :-

1. Kraze Burger at Clarke Quay and MBS
2. MOS Burger - island wide
3. Freshness Burger at Clarke Quay

Thursday, 20 September 2012

Restaurant Review : Jumbo Seafood, Singapore

Either you are allergic to seafood or you love it. I fall in the latter category and am almost embarrassed to state the copious amounts of well cooked seafood I can devour. Singapore is blessed with abundant restaurants specializing in this genre and each has its speciality. Within the crab world, you have the 'Jumbo' chain being masters of Chilli Gravy and Black Pepper crab and 'No Signboard' leading the charts for White Pepper crab. Some people rave about 'Red House' and 'Longbeach' but they don't impress me. The former's sauces are too sweet for my liking and the latter's crab dishes are mostly overcooked. These are of course the fancier names in the business and if you want to check out local favourites - they are all over from Joo Chiat to Newton Hawker Centre.

Jumbo is the most known amongst all seafood joints and I cannot fault their Numero Uno position. I've been going there for the past 10 years and not once have I had complaints with the food. I might moan about the need for reservations, long waiting time, tables placed centimetres away from each other, robot-like soulless service but the food always wins me over. Consistency is a big hurdle in the F&B business but Jumbo seems to have overcome it with ease. Hence, it is no surprise whenever I land at Jumbo, the manager does a double take at our order - 'Are you sure you want to order all of this?'

I frequent the Clarke Quay, Riverside Point, Dempsey and East Coast Park outlets in that order. Our order is almost always the same with only the greens varying. A large black pepper crab (sold by the weight) will set you back by SGD 45-52 and a really large one will leave you poorer by SGD 60-70. I prefer ordering two medium crabs to one large crab as you get more claws to dig into. The chilli gravy crab doesn't pass muster with me as the creamy sauce fills you up more than the crabmeat! Jumbo does a variety of prawns and on request will de-shell them for you. The salt and pepper prawns are absolutely top-class and I cannot recommend them enough. You can place your order by prawn size (S,M,L) and if you are ordering a few dishes, I reckon the medium sized serving with 6-8 pieces (SGD 20) is good enough. The Jumbo staff highly recommends the salted egg golden prawns but I find them too salty for my taste. There are enough interesting offerings from Jumbo which is why I am not a fan of ordering steamed / fried rice here. f you are a large party, I highly recommend you order one fish dish. On a manager's recommendation few visits ago, I discovered the Soon Hock or Marbled Goby and it is a must-try item. The fish comes as a whole as opposed to a fillet but the meat is so soft you can scoop it out with ease. This too is sold by the weight and a regular size would cost SGD 50-60. With all that cholesterol-rich food going into you, I advise a portion of greens. Choose between kangkong and baby kailan and you can't go wrong with either. Done in a nice oyster sauce with lot of garlic, they are the perfect accompaniment to your seafood order.

Jumbo has a wine list but I honestly think the wine taste takes away from the seafood flavour. I am not a big fan of the locally brewed Tiger beer but have to admit it goes very well with Asian seafood. But before you order that pint or jug of beer, I highly recommend you enjoy the appetizers with a Siam coconut (SGD 4.80) which is fresh, sweet and chilled at Jumbo.

Whilst Jumbo is undoubtedly one of Singapore's most popular restaurants, there are some aspects which leave you flustered. Firstly, the cut and dry attitude of the staff - be it on phone or in person - they lack warmth and go about their jobs in a robotic manner. Should you need any help or additional cutlery/aprons, be prepared to ask 2-3 waiters before you finally get it. Agreed this is not fine dining, but you do expect a minimum level of service when dining out. But what really gets my goat at Jumbo is the hidden tea / nuts charge. For those who are unaware, the moment you take a seat you'll be presented with fried peanuts and green tea. You might think these are complimentary, but unless you return them immediately you will be billed for them. It is not about the money (peanuts for SGD 1.20 and tea per head for  SGD 1.20) but when you are in a decently expensive speciality cuisine restaurant this kind of petty billing is very annoying. Thank God they have stopped charging for the wet tissues which used to be the case a few years back!

Overall, Jumbo is of course very highly recommended. American Express credit cards can usually get you some discount here so remember to ask while settling your tab. Portion sizes are big and if you are a hearty diner with friends who have similar appetite, this is the ideal restaurant for a group dinner. Take my advice : dump the cutlery and chopsticks whilst eating the crab. Put your hands to good use and forget manners and propriety in this food heaven. Go all out !

Sunday, 9 September 2012

Airline Review : Air India

Air India. The name conjures up images of smelly aircrafts, delayed flights, overweight stewardesses and of late, strikes. With all the negative headlines around the airline, people are wont to think the airline has no positive attributes left. What used to be a much decorated airline in the 1970's has been reduced to a mere caricature of its former self. But with the recent induction of the first Boeing 787 Dreamliner, there is still hope.

Whats going for the airline :
1. Business class fares are a steal ! Compared to the national carrier of your destination, I can vouch Air India (AI) business class fare will be atleast 40% cheaper if not more. Compared to Singapore Airlines, we are talking a fare difference of 70%+! Of course, the service and swish factor of other airlines might be several notches higher, but show me another nearly flat seat at Air India's price.
2. Some of AI's promotional schemes are truly value-for-money. Sample this : you can upgrade your economy seat to executive class (subject to availability) for INR 4,000 on routes less than 750 km and for INR 6,000 only for routes longer than 750km. Of course, with all the government travellers onboard, the 'availability' is a big question. Air India's most successful campaign - 'Companion flies free' - has been ongoing for years where companion pays only taxes and surcharges of the free ticket. The scheme is valid for full fare non-Asia economy seats too.
3. Great connectivity within India also : A lot of international travellers have onward connections to smaller Indian cities. Booking the entire trip on Air India is an ultra-cheap and convenient way to get to your destination. Whats more : Air India's 'Desh Videsh' scheme caters to precisely this lot (you get an international ticket free on completing INR 100,000 worth of domestic travel in a stipulated period). If you are on holiday in India, look out for the Air India-Taj hotels package which is yet another winner.
4. Service - Now when I talk about service in the Air India context, I don't mean Miss Universe-like contestants sashaying down the aisle to provide you with gourmet food and beverages. However, some staff at Air India do take their job seriously and care about providing you with smiling and efficient service. Operating within their limited government provided resources, I have often found staff to be courteous and warm (albeit a bit too matronly sometimes!)

What can do with some help :
1. Reduce AI's cost base in a bid to make it profitable : Air India is run by a heavily unionized employee body which doesn't lose much time in arm twisting the government for more bail-outs. Unfortunately, bulk of the bail-out money goes to fund 6 figure salaries of AI pilots many of whom are just high school graduates! A more realistic cost base will give AI a realistic bottomline too.
2. Regularity of service (a.k.a no strikes) : As mentioned above, the ease and frequency with which AI employees go on strike doesn't earn it any favours with retail travellers who are looking for reliability of service apart from low fares. Inspite of so many fare promotions, load factor on AI flights is dominated by Government ministers and officials who have to travel AI as per policy and who I doubt pay anything close to published fares. Needless to add, AI's on-time record has become a side casualty of these incessant strikes.
3. Inflight maintenance : I have to admit the moment when you walk into an AI plane is not exactly a memory you'll want to cherish forever. Broken armrests held together by tape, seats which won't recline, dog eared magazines and service which has zero consistency do not make for good memories. Add to these woes, headlines like these (http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/india/Stop-eating-up-flyers-food-Air-India-tells-stewards/articleshow/16456549.cms) and you realize Air India is in a league of its own in some very unique aspects!
4. No membership of any global frequent flyer program : Talks with Star Alliance have been going on and off for the past several years with the last round seeing Air India booted out by Star Alliance for not meeting the minimum standards for entry into the group.

Overall rating : 5/10. Media reports in recent times have alluded to Air India forcibly being made the proverbial big brother who sacrifices his all to give life to younger brother (a privately owned Indian airline in this context). If this is indeed the case and it does look like it with the Indian government's somewhat adamant stand on letting Air India sink, I feel sorry for JRD Tata's vision of what could have been a world class airline. But as Lenny Kravitz crooned, it ain't over till its over.

Thursday, 30 August 2012

Book Review : Mafia Queens of Mumbai by S. Hussain Zaidi

Stories about gangsters and their world of deceit, greed, ambition always make for a gripping read. If those gangsters happen to be women, the awe factor goes up several notches. Stories of these women's lives and how they ended up in probably the world's last male bastion will undoubtedly leave readers asking for more. To most Indians (and the wider world), the term 'Bombay/Mumbai mafia' conjures images of Haji Mastan, Dawood Ibrahim, Chota Rajan etc. Names like Jenabai Daaruwali, Gangubai Kathewali won't ring any bells. This is where 'Mafia Queens of Mumbai' steps in to give us a new perspective on the Indian underworld and the key players who helped build this world.

Written by one of India's leading crime journalists S. Hussain Zaidi with able assistance from Jane Borges, 'Mafia Queens of Mumbai' is a collection of stories about 13 women who ruled the Mumbai underworld at different times. The Femme Fatale has always intrigued and as pointed out in the book's foreword - crime is juicier than spirituality. Tales about fearless, gutsy women ranging from rice hoarder-turned-bootlegger Jenabai Daaruwali to the brothel madam with a golden heart Gangubai Kathewali (who is apparently still revered as a Goddess in Mumbai's notorious red light district Kamathipura) to noted gangster Ashwin Naik's wife Neeta Naik who was apparently gunned down by her own husband while holding a Government office nonetheless make for an interesting read.

Whilst the book is supposed to be an amalgam of police reports, first person accounts and interviews with the subjects themselves and/or their families and associates, I got the impression some stories are hurried jobs and included only for their 'spice' factor. I am not entirely convinced about the Ashraf Khan tale which looks a tad exaggerated and on surfing the internet for more information, I did not come across much information which corroborates Zaidi's account. Guess you can walk away with some exaggerations here and there in the name of literary freedom. Also the inclusion of Monica Bedi, a wannabe film actress-turned-moll-turned-reality show contestant in this book tantamounts to an insult for the other women dons featured here who rose by virtue of their guts, sharp thinking rather than being arm candy to a second-hand underworld operative.

Another point which stands out as a sore note is the titillation factor. Some stories contain sexual details of a degree which would be hard to gather except if you were present at the scene yourself! Guess this is where Zaidi has let sensationalism creep into what otherwise would have been a hard hitting book. With Vishal Bhardwaj, the noted Indian film director penning the foreword I cannot help but think the book was written with a pre-agreement to be translated on celluloid and hence the sprinkling of spice and thrills. I definitely recommend the book but advise you to exercise discretion in believing the 'facts' therein.