Random 3's in Singapore - Part I

A lot of my daily experiences don't merit full reviews and so i've just encapsulated them here.
P.s. The ranking is in order of being my favourite.

Top 3 coffee outlets in Singapore for having the best roasted beans at great prices :-

1. San Francisco Coffee at Phillip Street

2. Kith Cafe at Robertson Quay

3. Black's at 311 Somerset and Hitachi Tower (CBD)

Top 3 dessert places which will really satisfy that sweet tooth albeit at a price :-

1. Laurent Bernard Chocolatier at Robertson Quay

2. Da Paolo Dolci at Jalan Merah Saga

3. The Scoop Shop (Holland Village and Clementi) and Cold Stone Creamery are tied for best ice creams in town

Worst 3 burger joints in Singapore for selling overpriced small burgers which don't taste fresh :-

1. Kraze Burger at Clarke Quay and MBS

2. MOS Burger - island wide

3. Freshness Burger at Clarke Quay

Restaurant Review : Jumbo Seafood, Singapore

Either you are allergic to seafood or you love it. I fall in the latter category and am almost embarrassed to state the copious amounts of well cooked seafood I can devour. Singapore is blessed with abundant restaurants specializing in this genre and each has its speciality. Within the crab world, you have the 'Jumbo' chain being masters of Chilli Gravy and Black Pepper crab and 'No Signboard' leading the charts for White Pepper crab. Some people rave about 'Red House' and 'Longbeach' but they don't impress me. The former's sauces are too sweet for my liking and the latter's crab dishes are mostly overcooked. These are of course the fancier names in the business and if you want to check out local favourites - they are all over from Joo Chiat to Newton Hawker Centre.

Jumbo is the most known amongst all seafood joints and I cannot fault their Numero Uno position. I've been going there for the past 10 years and not once have I had complaints with the food. I might moan about the need for reservations, long waiting time, tables placed centimetres away from each other, robot-like soulless service but the food always wins me over. Consistency is a big hurdle in the F&B business but Jumbo seems to have overcome it with ease. Hence, it is no surprise whenever I land at Jumbo, the manager does a double take at our order - 'Are you sure you want to order all of this?'

I frequent the Clarke Quay, Riverside Point, Dempsey and East Coast Park outlets in that order. Our order is almost always the same with only the greens varying. A large black pepper crab (sold by the weight) will set you back by SGD 45-52 and a really large one will leave you poorer by SGD 60-70. I prefer ordering two medium crabs to one large crab as you get more claws to dig into. The chilli gravy crab doesn't pass muster with me as the creamy sauce fills you up more than the crabmeat! Jumbo does a variety of prawns and on request will de-shell them for you. The salt and pepper prawns are absolutely top-class and I cannot recommend them enough. You can place your order by prawn size (S,M,L) and if you are ordering a few dishes, I reckon the medium sized serving with 6-8 pieces (SGD 20) is good enough. The Jumbo staff highly recommends the salted egg golden prawns but I find them too salty for my taste. There are enough interesting offerings from Jumbo which is why I am not a fan of ordering steamed / fried rice here. f you are a large party, I highly recommend you order one fish dish. On a manager's recommendation few visits ago, I discovered the Soon Hock or Marbled Goby and it is a must-try item. The fish comes as a whole as opposed to a fillet but the meat is so soft you can scoop it out with ease. This too is sold by the weight and a regular size would cost SGD 50-60. With all that cholesterol-rich food going into you, I advise a portion of greens. Choose between kangkong and baby kailan and you can't go wrong with either. Done in a nice oyster sauce with lot of garlic, they are the perfect accompaniment to your seafood order.

Jumbo has a wine list but I honestly think the wine taste takes away from the seafood flavour. I am not a big fan of the locally brewed Tiger beer but have to admit it goes very well with Asian seafood. But before you order that pint or jug of beer, I highly recommend you enjoy the appetizers with a Siam coconut (SGD 4.80) which is fresh, sweet and chilled at Jumbo.

Whilst Jumbo is undoubtedly one of Singapore's most popular restaurants, there are some aspects which leave you flustered. Firstly, the cut and dry attitude of the staff - be it on phone or in person - they lack warmth and go about their jobs in a robotic manner. Should you need any help or additional cutlery/aprons, be prepared to ask 2-3 waiters before you finally get it. Agreed this is not fine dining, but you do expect a minimum level of service when dining out. But what really gets my goat at Jumbo is the hidden tea / nuts charge. For those who are unaware, the moment you take a seat you'll be presented with fried peanuts and green tea. You might think these are complimentary, but unless you return them immediately you will be billed for them. It is not about the money (peanuts for SGD 1.20 and tea per head for  SGD 1.20) but when you are in a decently expensive speciality cuisine restaurant this kind of petty billing is very annoying. Thank God they have stopped charging for the wet tissues which used to be the case a few years back!

Overall, Jumbo is of course very highly recommended. American Express credit cards can usually get you some discount here so remember to ask while settling your tab. Portion sizes are big and if you are a hearty diner with friends who have similar appetite, this is the ideal restaurant for a group dinner. Take my advice : dump the cutlery and chopsticks whilst eating the crab. Put your hands to good use and forget manners and propriety in this food heaven. Go all out !

Airline Review : Air India

Air India. The name conjures up images of smelly aircrafts, delayed flights, overweight stewardesses and of late, strikes. With all the negative headlines around the airline, people are wont to think the airline has no positive attributes left. What used to be a much decorated airline in the 1970's has been reduced to a mere caricature of its former self. But with the recent induction of the first Boeing 787 Dreamliner, there is still hope.

Whats going for the airline :
1. Business class fares are a steal ! Compared to the national carrier of your destination, I can vouch Air India (AI) business class fare will be atleast 40% cheaper if not more. Compared to Singapore Airlines, we are talking a fare difference of 70%+! Of course, the service and swish factor of other airlines might be several notches higher, but show me another nearly flat seat at Air India's price.
2. Some of AI's promotional schemes are truly value-for-money. Sample this : you can upgrade your economy seat to executive class (subject to availability) for INR 4,000 on routes less than 750 km and for INR 6,000 only for routes longer than 750km. Of course, with all the government travellers onboard, the 'availability' is a big question. Air India's most successful campaign - 'Companion flies free' - has been ongoing for years where companion pays only taxes and surcharges of the free ticket. The scheme is valid for full fare non-Asia economy seats too.
3. Great connectivity within India also : A lot of international travellers have onward connections to smaller Indian cities. Booking the entire trip on Air India is an ultra-cheap and convenient way to get to your destination. Whats more : Air India's 'Desh Videsh' scheme caters to precisely this lot (you get an international ticket free on completing INR 100,000 worth of domestic travel in a stipulated period). If you are on holiday in India, look out for the Air India-Taj hotels package which is yet another winner.
4. Service - Now when I talk about service in the Air India context, I don't mean Miss Universe-like contestants sashaying down the aisle to provide you with gourmet food and beverages. However, some staff at Air India do take their job seriously and care about providing you with smiling and efficient service. Operating within their limited government provided resources, I have often found staff to be courteous and warm (albeit a bit too matronly sometimes!)

What can do with some help :
1. Reduce AI's cost base in a bid to make it profitable : Air India is run by a heavily unionized employee body which doesn't lose much time in arm twisting the government for more bail-outs. Unfortunately, bulk of the bail-out money goes to fund 6 figure salaries of AI pilots many of whom are just high school graduates! A more realistic cost base will give AI a realistic bottomline too.
2. Regularity of service (a.k.a no strikes) : As mentioned above, the ease and frequency with which AI employees go on strike doesn't earn it any favours with retail travellers who are looking for reliability of service apart from low fares. Inspite of so many fare promotions, load factor on AI flights is dominated by Government ministers and officials who have to travel AI as per policy and who I doubt pay anything close to published fares. Needless to add, AI's on-time record has become a side casualty of these incessant strikes.
3. Inflight maintenance : I have to admit the moment when you walk into an AI plane is not exactly a memory you'll want to cherish forever. Broken armrests held together by tape, seats which won't recline, dog eared magazines and service which has zero consistency do not make for good memories. Add to these woes, headlines like these (http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/india/Stop-eating-up-flyers-food-Air-India-tells-stewards/articleshow/16456549.cms) and you realize Air India is in a league of its own in some very unique aspects!
4. No membership of any global frequent flyer program : Talks with Star Alliance have been going on and off for the past several years with the last round seeing Air India booted out by Star Alliance for not meeting the minimum standards for entry into the group.

Overall rating : 5/10. Media reports in recent times have alluded to Air India forcibly being made the proverbial big brother who sacrifices his all to give life to younger brother (a privately owned Indian airline in this context). If this is indeed the case and it does look like it with the Indian government's somewhat adamant stand on letting Air India sink, I feel sorry for JRD Tata's vision of what could have been a world class airline. But as Lenny Kravitz crooned, it ain't over till its over.

Book Review : Mafia Queens of Mumbai by S. Hussain Zaidi

Stories about gangsters and their world of deceit, greed, ambition always make for a gripping read. If those gangsters happen to be women, the awe factor goes up several notches. Stories of these women's lives and how they ended up in probably the world's last male bastion will undoubtedly leave readers asking for more. To most Indians (and the wider world), the term 'Bombay/Mumbai mafia' conjures images of Haji Mastan, Dawood Ibrahim, Chota Rajan etc. Names like Jenabai Daaruwali, Gangubai Kathewali won't ring any bells. This is where 'Mafia Queens of Mumbai' steps in to give us a new perspective on the Indian underworld and the key players who helped build this world.

Written by one of India's leading crime journalists S. Hussain Zaidi with able assistance from Jane Borges, 'Mafia Queens of Mumbai' is a collection of stories about 13 women who ruled the Mumbai underworld at different times. The Femme Fatale has always intrigued and as pointed out in the book's foreword - crime is juicier than spirituality. Tales about fearless, gutsy women ranging from rice hoarder-turned-bootlegger Jenabai Daaruwali to the brothel madam with a golden heart Gangubai Kathewali (who is apparently still revered as a Goddess in Mumbai's notorious red light district Kamathipura) to noted gangster Ashwin Naik's wife Neeta Naik who was apparently gunned down by her own husband while holding a Government office nonetheless make for an interesting read.

Whilst the book is supposed to be an amalgam of police reports, first person accounts and interviews with the subjects themselves and/or their families and associates, I got the impression some stories are hurried jobs and included only for their 'spice' factor. I am not entirely convinced about the Ashraf Khan tale which looks a tad exaggerated and on surfing the internet for more information, I did not come across much information which corroborates Zaidi's account. Guess you can walk away with some exaggerations here and there in the name of literary freedom. Also the inclusion of Monica Bedi, a wannabe film actress-turned-moll-turned-reality show contestant in this book tantamounts to an insult for the other women dons featured here who rose by virtue of their guts, sharp thinking rather than being arm candy to a second-hand underworld operative.

Another point which stands out as a sore note is the titillation factor. Some stories contain sexual details of a degree which would be hard to gather except if you were present at the scene yourself! Guess this is where Zaidi has let sensationalism creep into what otherwise would have been a hard hitting book. With Vishal Bhardwaj, the noted Indian film director penning the foreword I cannot help but think the book was written with a pre-agreement to be translated on celluloid and hence the sprinkling of spice and thrills. I definitely recommend the book but advise you to exercise discretion in believing the 'facts' therein.

Restaurant Review : Michelangelo's at Holland Village, Singapore

Holland Village and Dempsey areas of Singapore are just about the only places which offer abundant F&B options of all types - from al fresco bars to coffee shops to specialized international cuisine joints. As I've mentioned in previous posts, I am quite the fan of these areas with the exception of possibly the Lor Liput strip which is too noisy for my liking. I continue to be most partial to the Chip Bee Gardens stretch which houses my favourite La Fromagerie (best Raclette in Singapore), the original finger licking Da Paolo (their Gastronomia, Pizza Bar and Ristorante are all at Holland Village), Michelangelo's and Original Sin (probably Singapore's only all vegetarian Italian restaurant) and of course the source of my meats - The Butcher.

I find myself returning to Michelangelo's more often than I would like. Apart from being one of the few authentic al fresco restaurants in Singapore which don't charge a bomb for being just that, I like the quiet Jalan Merah Saga lane to which it overlooks. I highly recommend Michelangelo's for lunch on weekdays when it is especially quiet and you can be assured of efficient service. Their set lunches are very popular and people rarely order a la carte during this time. Ranging from SGD 25++ for 2 course set lunch to SGD 39++ for the 3 course one where you can choose from 3 appetizers, 6 mains and 3 desserts, this is value-for-money Italian fare. Highly recommended.

Michelangelo's a la carte menu is exhaustive and there is plenty to choose from amongst the pastas, seafood and grills. The humble 'Insalata Caprese' gets a new life at Michelangelo's due to the superior Mozzarella and ripe tomatoes used. I also like their fried Calamaris served with delicious tartar sauce. It is such a pity that most Italian restaurants get this basic Calamari dish so wrong and end up serving it as deep fried pub grub rather than giving it the flash fried treatment it is meant to get. From the vast array of dishes on offer, I have to admit I haven't tried most of them on my multiple trips here since my affections are almost always reserved for the 'Penne Sambuca e Gamberi' (SGD28++). This dish of tiger prawns sauteed with butter, shallots, spicy chilli and sun dried tomatoes tossed in light cream sauce with penne and flamed with a 50cl shot of Italian Sambuca is one of my all-time favourite dishes across cuisines. For the past 5+years that I've been sampling it, the dish has never failed to satisfy me and as I write this, I am tempted to go back to Michelangelo's to dig into it again! On the rare occasions I've not been upto having the aforementioned dish, I opt for Michelangelo's take on Fish n Chips : Pesce Fritto e Patate (SGD 32++). It is not the traditional English version but a likeable one nonetheless. I haven't tried it myself but I have heard average reviews about the meats/grills section of Michelangelo's. Some say the steak is chewy whilst others say it is undercooked from the degree they prefer. There is a good variety of desserts on offer - all priced at SGD 14++. My personal favourites are the Panna Cotta and Tiramisu which are both outstanding.

Michelangelo's wine list is much talked about and awarded. You can choose from a collection of over 4,000 bottles and there is something for everyone ranging from decent quality casual wines to more prestigious labels for the wine aficionados. For about SGD 100, you can get a pretty good wine to enjoy with your meal. Apart from Italian vineyards, wines from other countries also find representation here and you won't be hard pressed for choice.

Service at dinner time is a hit and miss affair at Michelangelo's. Sometimes even with a full house the attendants are prompt and efficient whilst on other lesser crowded occasions I've seen the staff are missing from action. You have to resort to hand waving (strictly food court behaviour I detest in fine dining establishments) to get the waiters' attention. Overall, Michelangelo's scores highly. It is not the best Italian food you'll have in your life and some diners might even accuse the restaurant of 'Asianizing' the traditional Italian recipes (they indeed have a Tandoori Chicken pasta), but I for one do not care. The food appeals to me and the ambience more so. Like I said before, I've been here many times. I don't see why that should change.

Restaurant Review : Chote Nawab, Lucknow, India

The Awadh region of India has long been known for its sumptuous cuisine. It is considered the birthplace of Kababs and Biryani. It is said that in Lucknow you can have 108 kinds of kababs! Take your pick from Kakori, Galawati, Seekh, Shami, Boti, Ghutwa kababs and the list goes on. Many of these varieties originated from Lucknow under the patronage of indulgent kings like Nawab Asaf-ud-Daulah and Nawab Wajid Ali Shah (who was also a great patron of music and arts aside from royal cuisine). Present day Lucknow has not only kept its culinary tradition alive, the food scene in Lucknow is actually a thriving one where centuries old recipes are found side by side with their new age cousins like Broccoli kababs. The challenge is only to find a clean, comfortable place where you can enjoy this cuisine without having to worry about what meat am I really eating or how fresh in fact is the food? For these reasons, I am not a fan of Tundey or Royal Cafe. They are good but I've found a better place.

In the world of Indian cuisine, chef Imtiaz Qureshi is a name to reckon with - a Lucknow boy whom ITC hotels spotted and gave an opportunity to launch the much revered Dum Pukht and Bukhara restaurants. Now his nephew Ishtiyaque Qureshi is keeping the family legacy alive by making these timeless authentic dishes available to the wider public with his Kakori House and Kebab Corner brand of restaurants and take-aways apart from his flagship outlet - Chote Nawab at Hotel Sagar International in Lucknow. It is to this Chote Nawab that I return to time and again knowing fully well that I will be satiated here with no complaints.

Launched as a fine dining restaurant, this 100 seater outlet is Plain Jane in looks. Dull furniture placed in a dimly lit restaurant would give an unfavourable first impression but wait for the food to arrive. The menu is exhaustive and since last year also includes plenty of prawn and fish kababs. The must-order items are but of course the kababs and biryani. Start off with the very succulent Kakori kababs (INR 350) which are so soft that it is considered a feat if you are able to lift one kabab as a whole. Move on to the super soft Galawati kababs (INR 295) which are my personal favourite here. Literally, ' Galawati' means 'melt in your mouth.' Legend has it that the kabab was created for an ageing Nawab Wajid Ali Shah who lost his teeth, but not his passion for meat dishes! The meat for Galawati and Kakori kababs is traditionally tenderized with green papaya and the technique is a secret I would love to discover. Another favourite is the Murg Makhmali kabab (INR 330) which is skewered to just the right degree every time. If you have appetite for more kababs, I can vouch whatever you'll order even with your eyes closed will be better than what 5 star hotels and deluxe restaurants in Delhi / Mumbai / elsewhere peddle in the name of Awadhi cuisine. 

Move on to the Lakhnawi biryani which is another gem from the Qureshi kitchen. Biryani is ideally had with lamb meat ('gosht') though a chicken variant is also available. A word of caution here : lovers of Hyderabadi Biryani style will be disappointed with Lakhnawi style because it is not as dry and has more oil. But for someone like me who is used to the Lakhnawi school of cooking, this is simply divine. Keep room for the 'rotis' and ideally order a basket to share. The 'Warq-e-Sada' or roomali roti (flat bread made with finely milled and refined flour) has to be one of the softest you would have eaten anywhere. You can see them being flipped into the air by master chefs in the glass-paneled kitchen in front of you. Pair the roomali rotis with another of Chote Nawab's epic offerings : Akbari Makhani Murg (butter chicken). This is the best butter chicken I've had and I should know having had a lot of them! 

And now onto the desserts. I don't have a very sweet tooth but it is at Chote Nawab where I let myself go. It is a problem of plenty here. The Shahi Tukda (saffron bread pudding), Zafrani Malai Phirni (rice set in milk), Kesar Kulfi are all to die for. On an aside, in case you are wondering about the quantum of our food order, let me mention here : I have been a Chote Nawab regular from the time it opened and have had all these dishes over a period of many years. 

Chef Ishtiyaque Qureshi is not seen regularly at Chote Nawab since he resides in Delhi and travels a lot. He has catered for most of the big fat celebrity weddings of recent times (Hrithik Roshan, Karishma Kapoor etc) and it is not surprising that he is a much sought after chef cum caterer. What really appeals to me is the fact that this hitherto 5 star cuisine has been taken out of those deluxe premises and made available to the public at far less punitive prices to the credit of this man. Three portions of Kababs alongwith a Biryani and one gravy dish accompanied with a bread basket and couple of desserts will set you back by no more than INR 2500 (USD 50) including taxes and service charge but excluding alcohol. Show me another place where you can get the same value for this kind of avant garde cuisine? This kind of pricing is all the more attractive considering Awadhi cuisine requires painstaking preparation and the right mix of ingredients which is known only to the chefs themselves and rarely disclosed to the outside world. The utensils used at Chote Nawab are also reminders of the precious legacy they protect - all are made of pure copper and tinned just like they used to be 200 years ago.

If you are a history buff or a connoisseur of Lucknow's age old hand embroidery works of Zardozi and Chikankari or even just a tourist to India , chances are you'll find yourself in one of the world's most refined cultural cities sooner or later. Take out time to sample its superlative cuisine or better still, let the cuisine be the magnet that attracts you to Lucknow. Once here, don't bother going anywhere else. Chote Nawab is the real McCoy.

UPDATE : Chote Nawab has unfortunately ceased operations out of Hotel Sagar International w.e.f. 2013. A new restaurant (not an Ishtiyaque Qureshi outlet) has opened in its place. If you want to sample Chote Nawab delicacies, only home delivery service is now available via their 'Kakori House' outlet. Food items are priced considerably lower than Chote Nawab but the food is terrible. I ordered Chote Nawab's specialties like Kakori Kabab, Galawati Kabab etc which were priced at about INR 100 each. None of the items left an impression on me and Kakori House is now on my 'strictly avoid' list. What have you done Ishtiyaque Qureshi? Slaughtered your hard earned reputation with this mediocre food. A real loss indeed.

Hotel Review : Viceroy Bali, Ubud, Indonesia

Bali beckoned us again and this time, we decided to give artistic Ubud a try over happening Seminyak and other places. Friends recommended a host of hotels from Four Seasons Sayan, The Chedi Club to the more boutique options like Viceroy and Komaneka at Bisma. We wanted to avoid the holiday crowds and therefore decided to skip chain hotels like Four Seasons. We opted instead for the family owned Viceroy which we believed would not be frequented by families with young children due to its hilly topography. Viceroy seemed the right choice for us as we wanted a quiet holiday far from the madding crowds.

The Viceroy staff was very prompt on emails and my reservation took less than a day to confirm after a slew of back and forth emails wherein they answered all my queries. A word of caution here : Viceroy does not have a consistent pricing policy and you will see a wide range of rates on different websites like Kiwi Collection, Tablet Hotels etc. Inclusions also differ. Hence, I strongly recommend you to scour the internet thoroughly before making your booking. We opted for the express immigration service provided by the hotel and it is a real boon. For a fee of USD 25 per person, there is a gentleman waiting for you at Denpasar airport who will collect your passport and get the visa (additional visa fee of USD 25 per person) and custom clearance in less than 10 minutes. This service was especially useful since the Denpasar airport is a very busy airport and is generally packed to the gills with enthusiastic travellers, kids and pets in tow.

We were met by Viceroy's friendly driver Made (Nova) who welcomed us with face towels and chilled water. Viceroy is a 90 minutes drive from the airport and the drive is very comfortable in the Toyota SUVs which comprise bulk of Viceroy's fleet. You can avoid the long drive from the airport by availing Viceroy's helicopter service which takes 45 minutes for a one way transfer and costs approx USD 1000++. As you pull into the hotel's driveway, you drive past Viceroy's exclusive helipad. Very luxurious touch indeed.

We were greeted warmly at the reception and check-in was a smooth process. We had booked a terrace villa which was sufficiently removed from the reception thus ensuring complete tranquility. All villas have views of the valley and are constructed so as to give complete privacy. As we entered our villa, a wow escaped our lips since the villa is quite simply breathtaking. You enter past a small infinity pool which has a small Balinese pavilion called a 'bale' perched over it. It is an ideal place to read a book and sip some wine overlooking the spectacular Petanu river gorge. The villas offer complete privacy so much so you can skinny dip without a second thought. However, the pool water was ice cold and that was one major gripe I had with the hotel. To maintain the infinity look, the pool water spills over the edge and goes underground to be piped again through a beautiful statue in the pool. This means the water is chilly even when it is a bright and sunny day. 

The interior of the villa is large and is essentially one large room with coffee maker, LCD television in one corner, a large bed in the centre flanked by cupboards on both sides and shower area at the other end. The shower area is not demarcated by a door or wall from the rest of the room and hence offers no privacy. The tub is in fact situated right behind the bed in the open. I guess this kind of bathing option will not appeal to older and more conservative guests. One thoughtless aspect of the room is that whilst the lavatory has a door, one entire wall opens to the tub area. Which effectively means your partner can hear your business while lying on the bed ! Not sure if the owners find this open bathroom concept romantic but I would call it an ideal case of style over substance. The mini-bar is well stocked and non-alcoholic drinks are complimentary. There is a Bose IPod docking station in the room allowing you to hear music at fairly high decibels without disturbing your neighbours who are located a fair distance away. Free wifi is provided in the rooms and there is a library in the hotel from where you can borrow books and DVDs. Bicycles are also available for free hire from the hotel.

Now to the most important feature of any hotel, i.e., food and beverages. Viceroy has only one restaurant on its premises - Cascades and it is a very well known name on the Balinese culinary landscape. We had a 3 course dinner included in our package and had it on our first night there. The pre-decided dessert was unavailable and we made do with an alternative. This left a poor impression on us and clearly points to the fact that Cascades does not run a full-scale kitchen with food being cooked in limited quantities. We dined out for the remainder of our trip except one occasion when we ordered room service. The food came promptly in ten minutes and unlike our first experience, the food was delicious. So the problem seems to be consistency. This aspect was confirmed the next day when we had breakfast. This is indeed the biggest let down at Viceroy. There is no buffet system and you order from a breakfast menu. Fruit platter and assorted breads along with a glass of juice and tea/coffee is included and apart from this, you can order any one main course free of charge. For a second dish order, you have to pay. The fruit platter and bread basket were the same everyday and so were the choice of 3 fruit juices. The size of the main course is very inconsistent. If you order pancakes, be prepared to go hungry since the portion is of a child-meal. On the other hand, an omelette is made of 3 eggs and very filling ! I am puzzled that Viceroy should adopt this approach at breakfast. I can understand a full scale kitchen is not feasible for a 25 room property (though a full kitchen is a must for a 5 star deluxe property) but then is it not more practical to offer more choices of smaller portions rather than one main course only which is more at risk of being wasted ? Either ways, this had to be the most boring and frugal breakfast I've had in an upscale hotel. 

The concierge services at Viceroy are excellent. We expressed our interest to see a coffee plantation to taste genuine Kopi Luwak or civet coffee (popularly known as 'poo' coffee), rice fields, spice garden and Mas village renowned for its furniture, woodwork and art galleries. Made gladly agreed to drive us around and at USD 60 for a 4 hour car hire, this is actually value-for-money. After our visit to the coffee plantation, we had some spare time and Made suggested a trip to the much-hyped Monkey Forest. If you are Asian, chances are you would have had seen many monkeys in your life thus making this excursion somewhat a waste of time.

Where I'd withhold some marks from Viceroy in the concierge and services division would be that they under-sell their beautiful property. We noticed one day a wine event being held by the poolside and on enquiring were told this is a monthly get together for expats in Bali that the Viceroy owners arrange. It is open for hotel guests also by paying a fee. Had we known about it earlier, we might have made time for it in our itinerary as would have other guests I am sure. But the event was not publicized and Viceroy lost an opportunity to make money as also provide their guests with additional recreation options.

Finally, a word on the much acclaimed Lembah spa. The setting of the spa is absolutely gorgeous and pictures on the website do full justice to the spa's fantastic location and breathtaking views. Apart from massage and sauna/steam, you can avail hair and nail services as well. We had a one hour couple spa treatment booked along with use of steam and jacuzzi. The jacuzzi pressure was just right and I could have been there the entire day. For the massage, you can choose from a range of aroma oils. The massage itself was nothing to write home about. Considering we were at the home of the Balinese massage style, the therapists were not that skilled and somehow, the strokes were not as relaxing as at some other places where I've tried the same. The massage room itself was not that conducive for relaxation with bright light streaming through the windows.

At the end of the trip, I have mixed sentiments for Viceroy. It is better than the Shangri-La's of the world but nowhere close to Aman resorts. The price point is only a couple of hundred dollars lower than Aman but the overall experience is several notches lower. The service is polite, smiling and efficient but seems to lack soul. Viceroy provides an excellent pick-up and drop-off complimentary car service to the main Ubud town centre. In this respect, the drivers were always prompt. The hotel offers some nice touches which are unfortunately negated by sub-standard service in other key areas like breakfast. Boutique hotel owners are seen on-site usually but in our case, we did not see them around at all. I don't mind returning to Viceroy but it won't be in a hurry.

Restaurant Review : The Mango Tree, Singapore

Indian coastal cuisine includes both Konkani and Malabari cuisine. Thankfully it is highly under-rated and not as commercialized as North Indian Mughlai cuisine (read available at every nook and corner). Many people do not have a taste or liking for seafood and specifically for seafood cooked in coconut oil / cream which is the standard medium of cooking in this cuisine.

Having heard about Mango Tree in Singapore for many years, I had not got around to visiting the place. However, couple of weeks back the boredom with fish tikkas and Jumbo style pepper crabs got the better of me and I promptly decided to dine at The Mango Tree. Noting the address from the website, we set off for Marina Cove at East Coast Road only to find the said restaurant does not exist there! I called the restaurant to be promptly informed they had shifted a fair distance away 3 months back to a new premises in a Katong mall ! I was appalled and suddenly not very sure if I wanted to trek to the new destination. After all, if you cannot update your website with this basic information, how can I be sure of your culinary prowess? Deciding to give it a try nonetheless, we arrived at the swish new mall 112 Katong to find the restaurant thankfully does exist here.

Located on the 3rd floor of the mall the bright decor shows off the newness of the restaurant. We were greeted with a polite smile and on being told their website wasn't updated which resulted in inconvenience for us, a staff member duly noted the same. A whole range of brass crockery is displayed in the passageway leading to the indoor and outdoor seating areas. We decided on the quieter outdoor seating under fans overlooking one of Singapore's most expensive landed houses, as the staff keenly informed us.

For appetizers we started off with The Mango Tree Tandoori Platter and Meen Pollichathu. I highly recommend the Tandoori platter with its mix of chunky fish kebabs, chicken seekh kebabs and tandoori prawns and priced at SGD 24, the portion is just right for sharing amongst 3 diners. I tried the Meen Pollichathu for the first time outside Kerala where it is a staple and popular dish. In Kerala, Pearl Spot fish or Karimeen (as it is locally known and hence the dish's name) is baked in banana leaves. However, this being Singapore Karimeen is unavailable and thus, pomfret or similar fish is used. If you've never had Meen Pollichathu in Kerala, you will love this preparation. Even otherwise, it is a decent dish to order.

For the main course, we ordered Mouli Jhingadi, Crab Masala, Appam and for some North Indian flavour, a portion of Murg Makhani and Lachha Paratha. Prawns are called 'Jhinga' in regional Indian languages and the Mouli Jhingadi dish was described in the menu as tiger prawns cooked in coconut gravy. The traditional Malabari coconut gravy dish is called 'Prawn Gassi'. Expecting this to be the same preparation, the Mouli Jhingadi was a bit of a disappointment. The prawns were large but instead of the tomato gravy cooked in coconut oil as in the original version, here the gravy was thick coconut cream and that too not of the Indian coconut which has a distinct flavour and is easily available in Singapore. The cream used was the ubiquitous 'Kara' brand of coconut cream which is a staple in Thai cooking. I did not particularly relish the mish-mash taste of curry leaves in Thai coconut cream being passed off as Konkani cuisine and would desist from ordering the dish next time.

Another disappointment was the Crab Masala. The dish is an excellent part of the Malabari menu and is traditionally served without any shell or claws. It is extracted crab meat sauteed with tomatoes, onions and southern spices for which Kerala is famous. I specifically checked with the waiter to ensure that the crab meat is served without the shell. Unfortunately contrary to what we were told, I was aghast to see the whole crab arrive dunked in copious amounts of tomato gravy. I'd like to believe I am an expert crab eater so I did extract all the meat but still it was not something I was prepared for at a Malabari cuisine outlet. The appams accompanying our meal were superlative and hot off the girdle. They were of the right fluffiness and size and we ordered more as we went along with our dinner.

While Murg Makhani fits just as well into a Konkani menu as an American burger, I must say it was excellent. Definitely has to be the best Murg Makhani I've had in Singapore and the Lachha Paratha complemented it perfectly. The smoky taste of Australian First Drop Chardonnay worked beautifully with our order and at SGD 66, was priced very well too. In fact, the small wine list at Mango Tree is quite attractively priced overall. We rounded off our dinner with a portion of Mango Kulfi to share and it was quite good.

Despite my quibbles about some of the dishes, I would still highly recommend a visit to The Mango Tree. My quibbles have more to do with my expectations from some of these dishes since I have been an avid fan of Konkani cuisine for many years. The food menu is exhaustive and I reckon more inputs from the waiter should be taken before placing your order. Don't let the original Kerala recipes dictate your choices here and you'll be fine. The service is polite and unintrusive. Small touches like placing an antique looking wash basin styled in brass in the outdoor area earn Mango Tree plus points. The music volume could be turned down a little but that was a minor aspect. At SGD 200+ The Mango Tree is not cheap but portion sizes are generous and the ambience genuinely relaxing. And yes, I checked the website recently and whilst it has been updated, it seems to have been done by a child - the new address has simply been added to the old one! Check out the new 112 Katong mall and drop into The Mango Tree for a different taste of India.

Airline Review : Air Asia

Think budget flights and images of crammed seats, smelly aircrafts come to mind. This needn't be the case always. Definitely not when you are flying Air Asia. The airline has been a success story from the word go. From 2001 when an erstwhile sick state owned Malaysian airline was re-relaunched as Air Asia to its successful (and oversubscribed) IPO it is not difficult to see why Air Asia is the success story it is.

Whats going for the airline :
1. Cheap fares. Sometimes they have promotions which can give you a real bargain.
2. Connectivity. Excellent connections from Singapore to Australia, Indonesia and Malaysia. Thailand can be better covered with only Bangkok and Phuket being catered to from Singapore.
3. Clean aircrafts. Cleanliness is usually the biggest sore point with budget carriers but Air Asia is an exception. Discarded bottles, food packs etc are taken away before landing thus sparing time for a quick vacuum before the next take-off.
4. Food is quite tasty by airline standards.
5. You can save 30-50% if you pre-book add-on services like extra baggage, meals on flight etc.
6. BIG loyalty program helps to tie budget flyers to Air Asia.

What can do with some help :
1. On-time performance can improve. Occasionally my flights have been delayed for no apparent reason other than 'technical issue.' If the issue really is serious, then the aircraft should be pulled out of service and sent for a thorough maintenance check.
2. Difference between preferred morning / evening slots and graveyard slots can be quite hefty. I understand this is part of the budget pricing exercise but in low season this can be adjusted in my opinion.
3. Like all budget carriers, leg space and seat size is wanting. But that is not such a big issue in my view since the budget pricing makes up for the inconvenience of a crammed seat.

Overall rating : 8/10. This has to be the numero uno budget carrier in the Asian region and it is not without justification that Air Asia CEO Tony Fernandes is one of the most respected figures in the aviation industry today. If you fly budget, fly Air Asia.

Book Review : Battle for Bittora by Anuja Chauhan

A wave of new generation Indian writers is deluging Indian readers. Each one claims to offer a unique insight into 'their' world. So if it was the self-lived IIT life that introduced Chetan Bhagat to success, Anuja Chauhan's popular book ' Battle for Bittora' claims to offer readers a behind the curtains look into the dirty world of Indian politics. Chauhan should know about politics, being the daughter-in-law of veteran Congress leader Margaret Alva.

'Battle for Bittora' is set against the backdrop of India's largest exercise in wasteful expense : Lok Sabha elections. The main protagonist, Sarojini Pande is forced to stand for elections by her pushy 3 times MP grandmother who has ambitions of keeping the Lok Sabha Bittora seat in the family. Sarojini standing on a Pragati Party (fictionalized Congress) ticket is pitted against her childhood friend turned lover Zain Altaf Khan who is contesting on an IJP (fictionalized BJP) ticket. The preparations for the election and what happens behind the scenes is what forms the crux of this book. Reading the acknowledgements at the end, you know 'Battle for Bittora' draws heavily from Chauhan's personal life with most of the setting being a snapshot of Chauhan's own upbringing and childhood. Peppered with real life incidents with a liberal take on politicians (you'll know who all are being talked about in each instance) and actors ('Salmon Khan'), Chauhan's breezy writing style does elicit occasional laughs from you.

Whilst Sarojini Pande's character is shown to be a weakling who comes into her own as the story progresses, other characters are not half as well developed. Some of them are caricatures of politicians' side kicks we see on TV. In my opinion, the overall plot is immature and unreal. Written in Hinglish, the book is clearly intended for an Indian audience only as there are no footnotes for meanings of Hindi words, or explanations of cultural references which an international audience would need. Overused cliches, poor editing and rose tinted glass views of a very complicated Indian political system strike this book off a serious readers' reading list. Considering the book has been hailed as good 'time pass' fare, movie rights for the book have been purchased. I suggest you wait and spend money on the popcorn then rather than buy the book now.

Restaurant Review : Tiffin Room at Raffles Hotel, Singapore

The two centuries old colonial styled Raffles Hotel is Singapore's most iconic landmark apart from being one of the world's most renowned hotels. The Singapore Sling cocktail was invented at the hotel's Long Bar which has been frequented by Ernest Hemingway and Somerset Maugham in the past. Steeped in this kind of history, expectations from any Raffles Hotel experience are sky high. The hotel has a large number of restaurants and bars in its spacious compound. The hotel's main dining room - Tiffin Room - is a tradition being continued at Raffles of being an Indian curry house. Today it is a popular hangout for tourists and I've also frequented it on few occasions.

The restaurant is located by the main hotel entrance and reeks of opulence. High ceilings, tall pillars, large windows and solid teak wood tables lend an authentic old world charm to the place. The all-white ambience is accentuated by black and white photographs on the walls and waiters dressed in crisp white uniforms. This is a buffet only restaurant (no a la carte) and the menu never changes. Which is good and bad. If you want a safe dining option, you can always count on Tiffin Room but not too frequently since you'll be having the same salads, the same appetizers, the same main course and the same desserts each time! Lunch buffet is priced at SGD60++ and dinner buffet at SGD75++ per person. Dress code is smart casual which means shorts and toe revealing footwear for men is a complete no-no.

The lunch buffet is from 12 noon to 2 pm after which high tea commences. Salads on offer are a mix of greens, vegetables and chilled seafood. Appetizers are potato patties, lamb seekh kebabs and mains range from popular Indian dishes like Palak Paneer (spinach with cottage cheese), Baingan Bharta (mashed eggplant cooked in spices) to seabass fillet cooked in tomato gravy, chicken tikka masala and lamb curry. Whilst the dishes are not culinary feats, the lamb curry is definitely outstanding. Rice options include plain steamed rice and chicken biryani. An assorted basket of freshly prepared naan breads will be brought to your table. There is of course a wine list to choose from. It has a very limited selection though and with a bottle of Cape Mentelle Sauvignon Blanc priced at SGD 108++, you know you are paying more for the ambience than the wine. The real scene stealer here are the desserts. For anyone with a sweet tooth and fondness for Indian desserts particularly, this is heaven. On offer are Kheer (rice pudding), Sewai (vermicelli in milk) and various other sweets.

Service is attentive and polite. After every course, when I returned to the table my napkin had been neatly folded on the chair arm-rest and old plate and cutlery cleared away. If you so wish, the staff will even get a dish from the buffet in a smaller bowl for you to be able to help yourself on the table. Not something I have observed in other buffets. Just a word of caution : looks like they prepare a particular quantity of food per buffet session. On more than one occasion, I have seen a food tray empty with no sign of it being refilled ! So be on time to be able to taste all that is on offer. More often than not, Tiffin Room will be offering 20-25% discounts on certain credit cards. Remember to ask for special credit card promotions when settling the bill.

A visit to Tiffin Room is ideal for celebrating special occasions as they have a corner of the restaurant earmarked for big groups. Occasionally you can step into Tiffin Room and gorge away in decadent opulence. I only wish they experimented with the menu once in a while to draw me back more often.

Lounge / Bar Review : CMPB, Dempsey, Singapore

I love Dempsey Hill. Apart from varied dining options its quaint art galleries, furniture shops and hilly topography give this place an uber Bohemian feel. It is not without reason this enclave has become a sophisticated hotspot and you will be a disappointed person if your reservations are not in place for almost all restaurants here on Friday and Saturday nights. Amongst the mix of specialty Mexican, Thai, French, seafood restaurants you'll find here, is a place called Contemporary Melting Pot and Bar (or CMPB as it is popularly known).

I've been here a couple of times before but only for a drink. I had liked the outdoor setting and their live band. So when opportunity arose, we picked CMPB for a proper meal. We did not have reservations for the Saturday evening but since we arrived really early (6:30 pm), the staff gave us a lovely table outdoors. CMPB has soft lighting with lanterns which lend it a festive look unlike the indoor area which is a bit too dark for my liking. A big plus for alfresco dining here is the numerous fans they have which keep humidity in check.

We ordered a portion of the famous CMPB truffle fries and beer battered fish bites priced at SGD 15 each. The truffle fries is a large portion and it would take four adult diners to finish it if you intend having main course. The deep fried fish bites were very soft and the portion size is just right. For our main course, we ordered Chicken Arabbiata (SGD18) and black pepper crab olio (SGD26). The pastas are overtly spicy due to very liberal use of black pepper. Have to mention the crab olio had generous portions of crab meat and that by itself will fill you after the truffle fries and fish bites.

CMPB offers an eclectic mix of drinks ranging from standard soft and hard liquor to exotic cocktails like Sake Mojito to innovative mocktails like CM-PB Therapy (refreshing mix of green apple, rock melon and water melon). Mocktails at SGD 12 are expensive considering cocktails are priced at SGD 14-16. Even a glass of imported Spanish Cava looks reasonably priced at SGD 18 if you consider the price of juices and mocktails here. Did I forget to mention desserts? We tried the apple strudel with vanilla ice cream. Nothing exceptional but not too bad either.

Overall, I would recommend CMPB. The ~SGD 160 tab for two is justified once in a while to have a relaxed outing in Singapore. The efficient service you get here from attentive waiters is a rarity in this island state. Add to that an exceptionally talented band which starts playing at 9:30 pm. The lead singer does a remarkable job of both strumming the guitar and beautifully singing such complex songs as 'Wishful Thinking' and 'The Only Exception.' By the time we left the place was packed with a steady stream of people trooping in more for drinks than the food. Probably this is what I'd do too on my next visit. The food won't attract you but the music, drinks and ambience will. Check it out.