Book Review : Mafia Queens of Mumbai by S. Hussain Zaidi

Stories about gangsters and their world of deceit, greed, ambition always make for a gripping read. If those gangsters happen to be women, the awe factor goes up several notches. Stories of these women's lives and how they ended up in probably the world's last male bastion will undoubtedly leave readers asking for more. To most Indians (and the wider world), the term 'Bombay/Mumbai mafia' conjures images of Haji Mastan, Dawood Ibrahim, Chota Rajan etc. Names like Jenabai Daaruwali, Gangubai Kathewali won't ring any bells. This is where 'Mafia Queens of Mumbai' steps in to give us a new perspective on the Indian underworld and the key players who helped build this world.

Written by one of India's leading crime journalists S. Hussain Zaidi with able assistance from Jane Borges, 'Mafia Queens of Mumbai' is a collection of stories about 13 women who ruled the Mumbai underworld at different times. The Femme Fatale has always intrigued and as pointed out in the book's foreword - crime is juicier than spirituality. Tales about fearless, gutsy women ranging from rice hoarder-turned-bootlegger Jenabai Daaruwali to the brothel madam with a golden heart Gangubai Kathewali (who is apparently still revered as a Goddess in Mumbai's notorious red light district Kamathipura) to noted gangster Ashwin Naik's wife Neeta Naik who was apparently gunned down by her own husband while holding a Government office nonetheless make for an interesting read.

Whilst the book is supposed to be an amalgam of police reports, first person accounts and interviews with the subjects themselves and/or their families and associates, I got the impression some stories are hurried jobs and included only for their 'spice' factor. I am not entirely convinced about the Ashraf Khan tale which looks a tad exaggerated and on surfing the internet for more information, I did not come across much information which corroborates Zaidi's account. Guess you can walk away with some exaggerations here and there in the name of literary freedom. Also the inclusion of Monica Bedi, a wannabe film actress-turned-moll-turned-reality show contestant in this book tantamounts to an insult for the other women dons featured here who rose by virtue of their guts, sharp thinking rather than being arm candy to a second-hand underworld operative.

Another point which stands out as a sore note is the titillation factor. Some stories contain sexual details of a degree which would be hard to gather except if you were present at the scene yourself! Guess this is where Zaidi has let sensationalism creep into what otherwise would have been a hard hitting book. With Vishal Bhardwaj, the noted Indian film director penning the foreword I cannot help but think the book was written with a pre-agreement to be translated on celluloid and hence the sprinkling of spice and thrills. I definitely recommend the book but advise you to exercise discretion in believing the 'facts' therein.

Restaurant Review : Michelangelo's at Holland Village, Singapore

Holland Village and Dempsey areas of Singapore are just about the only places which offer abundant F&B options of all types - from al fresco bars to coffee shops to specialized international cuisine joints. As I've mentioned in previous posts, I am quite the fan of these areas with the exception of possibly the Lor Liput strip which is too noisy for my liking. I continue to be most partial to the Chip Bee Gardens stretch which houses my favourite La Fromagerie (best Raclette in Singapore), the original finger licking Da Paolo (their Gastronomia, Pizza Bar and Ristorante are all at Holland Village), Michelangelo's and Original Sin (probably Singapore's only all vegetarian Italian restaurant) and of course the source of my meats - The Butcher.

I find myself returning to Michelangelo's more often than I would like. Apart from being one of the few authentic al fresco restaurants in Singapore which don't charge a bomb for being just that, I like the quiet Jalan Merah Saga lane to which it overlooks. I highly recommend Michelangelo's for lunch on weekdays when it is especially quiet and you can be assured of efficient service. Their set lunches are very popular and people rarely order a la carte during this time. Ranging from SGD 25++ for 2 course set lunch to SGD 39++ for the 3 course one where you can choose from 3 appetizers, 6 mains and 3 desserts, this is value-for-money Italian fare. Highly recommended.

Michelangelo's a la carte menu is exhaustive and there is plenty to choose from amongst the pastas, seafood and grills. The humble 'Insalata Caprese' gets a new life at Michelangelo's due to the superior Mozzarella and ripe tomatoes used. I also like their fried Calamaris served with delicious tartar sauce. It is such a pity that most Italian restaurants get this basic Calamari dish so wrong and end up serving it as deep fried pub grub rather than giving it the flash fried treatment it is meant to get. From the vast array of dishes on offer, I have to admit I haven't tried most of them on my multiple trips here since my affections are almost always reserved for the 'Penne Sambuca e Gamberi' (SGD28++). This dish of tiger prawns sauteed with butter, shallots, spicy chilli and sun dried tomatoes tossed in light cream sauce with penne and flamed with a 50cl shot of Italian Sambuca is one of my all-time favourite dishes across cuisines. For the past 5+years that I've been sampling it, the dish has never failed to satisfy me and as I write this, I am tempted to go back to Michelangelo's to dig into it again! On the rare occasions I've not been upto having the aforementioned dish, I opt for Michelangelo's take on Fish n Chips : Pesce Fritto e Patate (SGD 32++). It is not the traditional English version but a likeable one nonetheless. I haven't tried it myself but I have heard average reviews about the meats/grills section of Michelangelo's. Some say the steak is chewy whilst others say it is undercooked from the degree they prefer. There is a good variety of desserts on offer - all priced at SGD 14++. My personal favourites are the Panna Cotta and Tiramisu which are both outstanding.

Michelangelo's wine list is much talked about and awarded. You can choose from a collection of over 4,000 bottles and there is something for everyone ranging from decent quality casual wines to more prestigious labels for the wine aficionados. For about SGD 100, you can get a pretty good wine to enjoy with your meal. Apart from Italian vineyards, wines from other countries also find representation here and you won't be hard pressed for choice.

Service at dinner time is a hit and miss affair at Michelangelo's. Sometimes even with a full house the attendants are prompt and efficient whilst on other lesser crowded occasions I've seen the staff are missing from action. You have to resort to hand waving (strictly food court behaviour I detest in fine dining establishments) to get the waiters' attention. Overall, Michelangelo's scores highly. It is not the best Italian food you'll have in your life and some diners might even accuse the restaurant of 'Asianizing' the traditional Italian recipes (they indeed have a Tandoori Chicken pasta), but I for one do not care. The food appeals to me and the ambience more so. Like I said before, I've been here many times. I don't see why that should change.

Restaurant Review : Chote Nawab, Lucknow, India

The Awadh region of India has long been known for its sumptuous cuisine. It is considered the birthplace of Kababs and Biryani. It is said that in Lucknow you can have 108 kinds of kababs! Take your pick from Kakori, Galawati, Seekh, Shami, Boti, Ghutwa kababs and the list goes on. Many of these varieties originated from Lucknow under the patronage of indulgent kings like Nawab Asaf-ud-Daulah and Nawab Wajid Ali Shah (who was also a great patron of music and arts aside from royal cuisine). Present day Lucknow has not only kept its culinary tradition alive, the food scene in Lucknow is actually a thriving one where centuries old recipes are found side by side with their new age cousins like Broccoli kababs. The challenge is only to find a clean, comfortable place where you can enjoy this cuisine without having to worry about what meat am I really eating or how fresh in fact is the food? For these reasons, I am not a fan of Tundey or Royal Cafe. They are good but I've found a better place.

In the world of Indian cuisine, chef Imtiaz Qureshi is a name to reckon with - a Lucknow boy whom ITC hotels spotted and gave an opportunity to launch the much revered Dum Pukht and Bukhara restaurants. Now his nephew Ishtiyaque Qureshi is keeping the family legacy alive by making these timeless authentic dishes available to the wider public with his Kakori House and Kebab Corner brand of restaurants and take-aways apart from his flagship outlet - Chote Nawab at Hotel Sagar International in Lucknow. It is to this Chote Nawab that I return to time and again knowing fully well that I will be satiated here with no complaints.

Launched as a fine dining restaurant, this 100 seater outlet is Plain Jane in looks. Dull furniture placed in a dimly lit restaurant would give an unfavourable first impression but wait for the food to arrive. The menu is exhaustive and since last year also includes plenty of prawn and fish kababs. The must-order items are but of course the kababs and biryani. Start off with the very succulent Kakori kababs (INR 350) which are so soft that it is considered a feat if you are able to lift one kabab as a whole. Move on to the super soft Galawati kababs (INR 295) which are my personal favourite here. Literally, ' Galawati' means 'melt in your mouth.' Legend has it that the kabab was created for an ageing Nawab Wajid Ali Shah who lost his teeth, but not his passion for meat dishes! The meat for Galawati and Kakori kababs is traditionally tenderized with green papaya and the technique is a secret I would love to discover. Another favourite is the Murg Makhmali kabab (INR 330) which is skewered to just the right degree every time. If you have appetite for more kababs, I can vouch whatever you'll order even with your eyes closed will be better than what 5 star hotels and deluxe restaurants in Delhi / Mumbai / elsewhere peddle in the name of Awadhi cuisine. 

Move on to the Lakhnawi biryani which is another gem from the Qureshi kitchen. Biryani is ideally had with lamb meat ('gosht') though a chicken variant is also available. A word of caution here : lovers of Hyderabadi Biryani style will be disappointed with Lakhnawi style because it is not as dry and has more oil. But for someone like me who is used to the Lakhnawi school of cooking, this is simply divine. Keep room for the 'rotis' and ideally order a basket to share. The 'Warq-e-Sada' or roomali roti (flat bread made with finely milled and refined flour) has to be one of the softest you would have eaten anywhere. You can see them being flipped into the air by master chefs in the glass-paneled kitchen in front of you. Pair the roomali rotis with another of Chote Nawab's epic offerings : Akbari Makhani Murg (butter chicken). This is the best butter chicken I've had and I should know having had a lot of them! 

And now onto the desserts. I don't have a very sweet tooth but it is at Chote Nawab where I let myself go. It is a problem of plenty here. The Shahi Tukda (saffron bread pudding), Zafrani Malai Phirni (rice set in milk), Kesar Kulfi are all to die for. On an aside, in case you are wondering about the quantum of our food order, let me mention here : I have been a Chote Nawab regular from the time it opened and have had all these dishes over a period of many years. 

Chef Ishtiyaque Qureshi is not seen regularly at Chote Nawab since he resides in Delhi and travels a lot. He has catered for most of the big fat celebrity weddings of recent times (Hrithik Roshan, Karishma Kapoor etc) and it is not surprising that he is a much sought after chef cum caterer. What really appeals to me is the fact that this hitherto 5 star cuisine has been taken out of those deluxe premises and made available to the public at far less punitive prices to the credit of this man. Three portions of Kababs alongwith a Biryani and one gravy dish accompanied with a bread basket and couple of desserts will set you back by no more than INR 2500 (USD 50) including taxes and service charge but excluding alcohol. Show me another place where you can get the same value for this kind of avant garde cuisine? This kind of pricing is all the more attractive considering Awadhi cuisine requires painstaking preparation and the right mix of ingredients which is known only to the chefs themselves and rarely disclosed to the outside world. The utensils used at Chote Nawab are also reminders of the precious legacy they protect - all are made of pure copper and tinned just like they used to be 200 years ago.

If you are a history buff or a connoisseur of Lucknow's age old hand embroidery works of Zardozi and Chikankari or even just a tourist to India , chances are you'll find yourself in one of the world's most refined cultural cities sooner or later. Take out time to sample its superlative cuisine or better still, let the cuisine be the magnet that attracts you to Lucknow. Once here, don't bother going anywhere else. Chote Nawab is the real McCoy.

UPDATE : Chote Nawab has unfortunately ceased operations out of Hotel Sagar International w.e.f. 2013. A new restaurant (not an Ishtiyaque Qureshi outlet) has opened in its place. If you want to sample Chote Nawab delicacies, only home delivery service is now available via their 'Kakori House' outlet. Food items are priced considerably lower than Chote Nawab but the food is terrible. I ordered Chote Nawab's specialties like Kakori Kabab, Galawati Kabab etc which were priced at about INR 100 each. None of the items left an impression on me and Kakori House is now on my 'strictly avoid' list. What have you done Ishtiyaque Qureshi? Slaughtered your hard earned reputation with this mediocre food. A real loss indeed.

Hotel Review : Viceroy Bali, Ubud, Indonesia

Bali beckoned us again and this time, we decided to give artistic Ubud a try over happening Seminyak and other places. Friends recommended a host of hotels from Four Seasons Sayan, The Chedi Club to the more boutique options like Viceroy and Komaneka at Bisma. We wanted to avoid the holiday crowds and therefore decided to skip chain hotels like Four Seasons. We opted instead for the family owned Viceroy which we believed would not be frequented by families with young children due to its hilly topography. Viceroy seemed the right choice for us as we wanted a quiet holiday far from the madding crowds.

The Viceroy staff was very prompt on emails and my reservation took less than a day to confirm after a slew of back and forth emails wherein they answered all my queries. A word of caution here : Viceroy does not have a consistent pricing policy and you will see a wide range of rates on different websites like Kiwi Collection, Tablet Hotels etc. Inclusions also differ. Hence, I strongly recommend you to scour the internet thoroughly before making your booking. We opted for the express immigration service provided by the hotel and it is a real boon. For a fee of USD 25 per person, there is a gentleman waiting for you at Denpasar airport who will collect your passport and get the visa (additional visa fee of USD 25 per person) and custom clearance in less than 10 minutes. This service was especially useful since the Denpasar airport is a very busy airport and is generally packed to the gills with enthusiastic travellers, kids and pets in tow.

We were met by Viceroy's friendly driver Made (Nova) who welcomed us with face towels and chilled water. Viceroy is a 90 minutes drive from the airport and the drive is very comfortable in the Toyota SUVs which comprise bulk of Viceroy's fleet. You can avoid the long drive from the airport by availing Viceroy's helicopter service which takes 45 minutes for a one way transfer and costs approx USD 1000++. As you pull into the hotel's driveway, you drive past Viceroy's exclusive helipad. Very luxurious touch indeed.

We were greeted warmly at the reception and check-in was a smooth process. We had booked a terrace villa which was sufficiently removed from the reception thus ensuring complete tranquility. All villas have views of the valley and are constructed so as to give complete privacy. As we entered our villa, a wow escaped our lips since the villa is quite simply breathtaking. You enter past a small infinity pool which has a small Balinese pavilion called a 'bale' perched over it. It is an ideal place to read a book and sip some wine overlooking the spectacular Petanu river gorge. The villas offer complete privacy so much so you can skinny dip without a second thought. However, the pool water was ice cold and that was one major gripe I had with the hotel. To maintain the infinity look, the pool water spills over the edge and goes underground to be piped again through a beautiful statue in the pool. This means the water is chilly even when it is a bright and sunny day. 

The interior of the villa is large and is essentially one large room with coffee maker, LCD television in one corner, a large bed in the centre flanked by cupboards on both sides and shower area at the other end. The shower area is not demarcated by a door or wall from the rest of the room and hence offers no privacy. The tub is in fact situated right behind the bed in the open. I guess this kind of bathing option will not appeal to older and more conservative guests. One thoughtless aspect of the room is that whilst the lavatory has a door, one entire wall opens to the tub area. Which effectively means your partner can hear your business while lying on the bed ! Not sure if the owners find this open bathroom concept romantic but I would call it an ideal case of style over substance. The mini-bar is well stocked and non-alcoholic drinks are complimentary. There is a Bose IPod docking station in the room allowing you to hear music at fairly high decibels without disturbing your neighbours who are located a fair distance away. Free wifi is provided in the rooms and there is a library in the hotel from where you can borrow books and DVDs. Bicycles are also available for free hire from the hotel.

Now to the most important feature of any hotel, i.e., food and beverages. Viceroy has only one restaurant on its premises - Cascades and it is a very well known name on the Balinese culinary landscape. We had a 3 course dinner included in our package and had it on our first night there. The pre-decided dessert was unavailable and we made do with an alternative. This left a poor impression on us and clearly points to the fact that Cascades does not run a full-scale kitchen with food being cooked in limited quantities. We dined out for the remainder of our trip except one occasion when we ordered room service. The food came promptly in ten minutes and unlike our first experience, the food was delicious. So the problem seems to be consistency. This aspect was confirmed the next day when we had breakfast. This is indeed the biggest let down at Viceroy. There is no buffet system and you order from a breakfast menu. Fruit platter and assorted breads along with a glass of juice and tea/coffee is included and apart from this, you can order any one main course free of charge. For a second dish order, you have to pay. The fruit platter and bread basket were the same everyday and so were the choice of 3 fruit juices. The size of the main course is very inconsistent. If you order pancakes, be prepared to go hungry since the portion is of a child-meal. On the other hand, an omelette is made of 3 eggs and very filling ! I am puzzled that Viceroy should adopt this approach at breakfast. I can understand a full scale kitchen is not feasible for a 25 room property (though a full kitchen is a must for a 5 star deluxe property) but then is it not more practical to offer more choices of smaller portions rather than one main course only which is more at risk of being wasted ? Either ways, this had to be the most boring and frugal breakfast I've had in an upscale hotel. 

The concierge services at Viceroy are excellent. We expressed our interest to see a coffee plantation to taste genuine Kopi Luwak or civet coffee (popularly known as 'poo' coffee), rice fields, spice garden and Mas village renowned for its furniture, woodwork and art galleries. Made gladly agreed to drive us around and at USD 60 for a 4 hour car hire, this is actually value-for-money. After our visit to the coffee plantation, we had some spare time and Made suggested a trip to the much-hyped Monkey Forest. If you are Asian, chances are you would have had seen many monkeys in your life thus making this excursion somewhat a waste of time.

Where I'd withhold some marks from Viceroy in the concierge and services division would be that they under-sell their beautiful property. We noticed one day a wine event being held by the poolside and on enquiring were told this is a monthly get together for expats in Bali that the Viceroy owners arrange. It is open for hotel guests also by paying a fee. Had we known about it earlier, we might have made time for it in our itinerary as would have other guests I am sure. But the event was not publicized and Viceroy lost an opportunity to make money as also provide their guests with additional recreation options.

Finally, a word on the much acclaimed Lembah spa. The setting of the spa is absolutely gorgeous and pictures on the website do full justice to the spa's fantastic location and breathtaking views. Apart from massage and sauna/steam, you can avail hair and nail services as well. We had a one hour couple spa treatment booked along with use of steam and jacuzzi. The jacuzzi pressure was just right and I could have been there the entire day. For the massage, you can choose from a range of aroma oils. The massage itself was nothing to write home about. Considering we were at the home of the Balinese massage style, the therapists were not that skilled and somehow, the strokes were not as relaxing as at some other places where I've tried the same. The massage room itself was not that conducive for relaxation with bright light streaming through the windows.

At the end of the trip, I have mixed sentiments for Viceroy. It is better than the Shangri-La's of the world but nowhere close to Aman resorts. The price point is only a couple of hundred dollars lower than Aman but the overall experience is several notches lower. The service is polite, smiling and efficient but seems to lack soul. Viceroy provides an excellent pick-up and drop-off complimentary car service to the main Ubud town centre. In this respect, the drivers were always prompt. The hotel offers some nice touches which are unfortunately negated by sub-standard service in other key areas like breakfast. Boutique hotel owners are seen on-site usually but in our case, we did not see them around at all. I don't mind returning to Viceroy but it won't be in a hurry.