Hotel Review : The Library Hotel, New York City, USA

Finding a good hotel in New York City is a challenge on multiple fronts. You want it all : a good location, easy access to Subway and tourist attractions, reasonable rates (reasonable and NYC - you got to be kidding!) and above all, a space larger than an attic to justify the price tag. A few freebies such as complimentary breakfast would be nice but hey, this is The Big Apple and we were going on Thanksgiving weekend. We couldn't have it all and that too at start of peak season. After a lot of internet searches, city guides and friends' recommendation, I settled for The Library Hotel at Madison Avenue for our 4 night stay. 

I had a few queries and opted to book via email rather than the hotel's web engine. My first email was swiftly responded to by Timothy Gerhold who was great to deal with over the next few days. With the booking quickly out of the way, he was immensely helpful with advice and even gave us a post-Sandy update. NYC room sizes are infamous and with our luggage, we opted to upgrade to the Queen size bed. Surprise of surprises, American breakfast was part of our package and this is no mean freebie to get in American hotels. It seems we did manage to get it all at a busy time of the year !

After a gruelling 2 hour immigration queue at JFK, we managed to reach Library Hotel by 5 pm. The hotel is located a few steps from the New York Public Library and has an unassuming entrance on the uber posh Madison Avenue. Check-in was smooth with the staff informing us the hotel offers free wi-fi throughout the premises. The second floor book lounge is open all day serving breakfast in the mornings and hosting a complimentary wine and cheese reception daily from 5 pm to 8 pm. The Library Hotel is themed around books and even the rooms are numbered according to the Dewey decimal system. We had requested for a higher floor to avoid the city traffic noise and thankfully our request was fulfilled. We were in the 'paranormal' themed room 1100.005. The bed was clean and comfortable and the bathroom was relatively spacious. An abundance of books dealing with the paranormal theme line the room. I really liked the way standard 'Do Not Disturb' and 'Please Make my Room' room tags were replaced with the more quirky 'Shh... I am reading' and 'Please Dust my Books' tags. 

The breakfast is sumptuous and includes cereals, fruits, hard boiled eggs and breads which will be toasted on request. Fresh orange juice and other beverages are also available. The real winner was the evening wine and cheese reception which offered a selection of white, red and sparkling wine (Prosecco). These are accompanied by nibbles such as sesame sticks, soft buns and butter and of course, cheese of a few types. The lounge is a wonderfully done up area with a wide selection of books, daily newspapers and plenty of magazines. If it weren't for the call of of the city, we could have spent hours at The Library Hotel soaking in the books. We dined one day at the 'Madison and Vine' restaurant which was as top-class as the hotel. Dishes are appropriately sized, decently priced and service is unobtrusive and efficient. We really enjoyed the Mushroom Ravioli (($19) and the generous portion of Atlantic Salmon ($26). We also paid a fleeting visit to 'Bookmarks', the rooftop lounge at The Library Hotel. With its cosy ambience and covered / al fresco seating, it looked to be a popular hang-out for the Wall Street type crowd.

The staff at Library Hotel is undoubtedly its best asset. From the bell boy Adrian to front office staff David, Kerrie and many others whose names I cannot recall were wonderful. Everyone was very helpful and offered excellent recommendations for planning our itinerary and what I liked most of all was that unlike most American establishments, no one was pushy for tips. The Library staff was genuinely warm and one felt like tipping them generously for the flawless service they offered. Coming from Asia, my expectations from American hotels and hospitality standards were quite low but the Library Hotel not only ticked all boxes but left me very impressed.

Library is definitely my return-to hotel in New York City. With Grand Central Station - 42nd Street at your doorstep and Times Square a few blocks comfortably away, this exclusive East Side address is all one needs to soak in the magic of New York City. I highly recommend you to stop chasing frequent visitor points at Hilton / Marriott / Hyatt etc and check into this boutique property for a large juicy slice of the Big Apple. 

Restaurant Week 2012 Review : Gaia at Goodwood Park Hotel, Singapore

I somehow missed out on writing about what was undoubtedly my discovery of 2012 in Singapore. So here it goes. I have previously mentioned while reviewing The Knolls that the main objective of Restaurant Week (RW) is to attract new clientele by offering a glimpse of a full menu at a discounted price. Having previously been let down by The Knolls, we stepped into Gaia at Goodwood Park Hotel with close to zero expectations.

From the time we walked in, we were impressed with the attention we received. We were asked to wait for a few minutes whilst our table was being made ready. To be fair to them, we did arrive a good ten minutes early for our booking. There is a bar at the entrance which doubles up as a waiting space and you really don't mind hanging around this very cozy corner. Gaia is a nicely laid out restaurant which gives off an aura of exclusivity. There is an outdoor seating option available overlooking the car park so not much of a view there. The place was packed to the gills and we were shown to a nice quiet table towards the end of the restaurant.

Gaia is owned by the same group that runs Oso and Absinthe. Our pre-set RW menu was quite sumptuous with 4 courses being followed by choice of coffee or tea. We started off with pan fried scallops with carrots and balsamic sauce which tasted much better than it sounds. This was followed by lip-smacking ravioli filled with pumpkin cream, sauteed S. Daniele ham and butter sauce. For the main course, I opted for the Oceanic Trout fillet innovatively cooked in a paper bag with cherry tomatoes and 'taggiasche' olives. This was simply fantastic and probably the first time I've had a fish fillet preparation when it is not just plain steamed or fried. My husband opted for the slow cooked wagyu beef with thyme mash potato and braised mushrooms for his main course and this was quite decent. We rounded off with a portion of chocolate and hazelnut mousse with  pistachio sauce and hazelnut crumble. Not the best dessert I've had but definitely the best I've seen being offered on a RW menu.

I would rate service at Gaia as superlative and very personalized to the extent you feel there is one manager allocated per table. Our assigned manager Miguel Pereira was a complete gentleman who couldn't apologize enough when my glass of champagne hadn't arrived for twenty minutes. He offered a complimentary glass of Prosecco to make up for the service lapse and I found that incredibly remarkable considering this was RW and we were paying a slashed price of SGD 55++ per pax for the food (and super premium service). Miguel has previously worked with Singapore Airlines in their business / first class lounge division and that explained his knowledge of discreet and top-notch service.

A quick glance at the a la carte menu revealed mains ranging from SGD 22-40 which is far more reasonable than what non-hotel Italian restaurants charge minus the ambience and service. Regarding prices of drinks, I have to say they looked relatively reasonable with the French bubbly costing SGD 12 vis-a-vis the atrocious SGD 30 I paid for it at The Knolls at Capella! My husband was pleasantly surprised to find his favourite gin : Hendrick's (SGD 17) available on the menu since most restaurant bars don't stock it.

Like I have already mentioned Gaia is the discovery of the year for me in Singapore. It scores a hat trick on all 3 counts - ambience, food and service which undoubtedly is the best I've experienced anywhere in Singapore. I have since returned to Gaia already and Miguel has remembered our meal preferences. Let me add here that we've become fans of the Prawn Gamberoni and Tagliatelle with Lobster in Tomato Sauce (SGD 40 each). Italian wines are very attractively priced and the highly rated 2007 Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino can be yours at Gaia for SGD 90. If you are wondering about corkage, you have to purchase one bottle for every bottle you bring of your own. You might want to skip desserts as the Triple Layered Sponge Cake and Tiramisu both have missed my expectations. Your DBS credit card should get you a 15% discount on your total bill. I am game for yet another visit to Gaia as soon as it can happen and look forward to being back here.

Lounge/Bar Review : Blue Note Jazz Club, New York City, USA

Sorry for being MIA. Was spending some time on East Coast lapping up the pleasures of Uncle Sam's land.

I like jazz. Unfortunately, I don't get enough opportunities to cultivate this interest in Asia. While in NYC recently, I heard David Sanborn was playing at a jazz club - 'Blue Note' in the Village. I did a double flip and immediately booked our table.

Situated in the hip Greenwich village area right next to the W 4th Street Subway stop, Blue Note has an unpretentious exterior. We walked in just before 8 pm and were really lucky to get a table bang in front of the stage. Note that Blue Note is set up as a performance venue with the stage being surrounded by U-shaped seating. The club has performances scheduled daily at 8 pm and 10:30 pm and a Sunday jazz brunch with performances at 12:30 pm and 2:30 pm.

We were quickly seated just in time for the start of David Sanborn's show and it was a fully packed house with some guests still waiting in queue. For those in the dark, David Sanborn is one of America's most famous saxophonists who does a wonderful blend of jazz with instrumental Pop and R&B. Were we privileged to find him playing in NYC during our trip! He had just returned from Tokyo that morning but the 67 years old Sanborn's mind blowing performance gave none of the jet lag away.

Blue Note runs on a concert concept and per head charges range from $10 to $45 for A-list performances like David Sanborn's. If you do not intend to have a meal, you can enjoy a show seated at the bar which costs lesser but doesn't offer as clear a view of the stage. Each seat is sold out for top performances and by that I literally mean each seat. Be prepared to share your table with other couples as charges are per head and no seat goes unsold. True to its slogan of being the 'best jazz club and restaurant in the world', Blue Note has good lighting, sound acoustics coupled with a superior line-up of artists. Apart from Jazz, Blues, R&B, Latin and Hip Hop acts also are a regular feature here. For those who are interested, the December line-up includes Kendra Ross, Medeski Martin & Wood and Chris Botti who has been integral in making Blue Note the legend it has become. The much acclaimed American trumpeter will be performing at Blue Note through Christmas and New Year's for the eighth year running from Dec 17th to Jan 6th. 

One doesn't go to Blue Note for the food. It is expensive though the portion sizes are generous like everywhere in the US. We ordered a Baked Lemon Sole accompanied with steamed asparagus ($31) which was delicious and a 'Today's Special' dish of Shrimp Avocado Sandwich ($18) which was decent. The menu also offers regular items like Vegan styled Farfalle Pasta, Rigatoni Pasta, Seared Red Snapper etc priced in the $22-$28 range. Drinks are expensive too with a glass of sparkling wine (not Champagne) at $10. Service is prompt and efficient though like most American establishments, cold and impersonal.

Blue Note is rightfully regarded as one of the best jazz venues in the world and I would thoroughly recommend it for all jazz lovers and non-lovers alike. This is the place which will convert you. Blue Note has a well-earned reputation of being amongst the world's priciest jazz clubs but this is money well spent. Reservations are highly recommended and I can only look forward to being back here. Soon.

Book Review : In Cold Blood by Truman Capote

'In Cold Blood' by Truman Capote (Breakfast at Tiffany's) has been on my reading list for a long time. I finally got around to reading it a few weeks back and well, I am still thinking about the book. The book deals with a true crime that was 'investigated' by a private individual and the resulting investigations may have impacted the punishment meted out to the culprits.

'In Cold Blood' details the story of four members of the Clutter family residing in Holcomb, Kansas in the late 1950's who were gruesomely murdered in their home, one after the other. There was no apparent motive for the crime and it was a seemingly perfect murder with almost no clues left behind. Truman Capote apparently read a short newspaper article carrying news of the murder and was so intrigued by the chain of events, that he along with his close friend Harper Lee (of 'To Kill a Mockingbird' fame) set off to Holcomb to research the facts. What followed was copious amounts of research, numerous interviews with Holcomb residents and gathering as much information about the Clutter family as was possible. Capote then goes on to reconstruct the murder, the ensuing police investigation including the arrest, trial and finally execution of the killers.

What stands out about 'In Cold Blood' is that the outcome / identity of killers is known from the start but still Capote manages to build suspense. I kept turning the pages in sheer awe, disgust, astonishment and anger in turns. Capote has clearly taken some liberties in doing his 'factual assessment' of the situation and the book should not be read as a 100% factual account. Omission of the surviving members' account of the situation coupled with questionable detailed insight into the killers' behavior and mannerisms makes one think Capote had prize winning aspirations at the back of his mind from the onset of this book's journey. However, full credit must be given where it is due. Capote has managed to achieve the seemingly impossible : create some sympathy for the murderers while detailing minute details of a murder committed in the coldest blood.

'In Cold Blood' became the greatest crime seller of its time and is considered a cult classic of its genre. It also created significant controversy with regard to Capote's excessive involvement in an ongoing legal case and whether his involvement may have impacted the judicial process. The fact that Capote 'benefited' from the misfortune of an innocent family also tends to play on one's mind.  Despite the criticism 'In Cold Blood ' continues to be regarded highly in the non-fiction crime-writing genre. The 2012 horror movie 'Sinister' has Ethan Hawke explaining to his wife why he must undertake his current venture and how it could be his 'In Cold Blood moment.' Such is the aura of Capote's book. It is undoubtedly heavy reading and may not appeal to all readers. But it will leave you thinking. 

Restaurant Week 2012 Review : The Knolls at Capella Hotel, Singapore

I've been a regular at Singapore Restaurant Week for few years now. The objective of Restaurant Week (RW) is to attract new clientele by showcasing a fixed menu at an attractive price. Once your customers are hooked, they will get sticky and pay the regular meal price - that is the thinking. Hence, you have RW dinners priced at SGD 35++ per person. Gourmet restaurants charge a premium for their menu and will set you back by SGD 55++ per person. Considering a 'discounted' meal for 2 at a gourmet restaurant will set you back by SGD 150 atleast including taxes, you look for a superlative experience when you make your RW reservation. On going through the list, I saw quite a few new upscale entrants this year and decided to give one of them a try.

We headed to the much touted and talked about 'The Knolls' at Capella Hotel. From the moment we walked in, we knew this would be an average evening. The restaurant was practically empty save couple of tables which were occupied by RW diner groups. It is a testimony to the restaurant's popularity that even with 'discounted' prices, the place wore a deserted look. The gracious Maitre d' showed us to our table set in the furthest corner of the restaurant. The smiling staff walked us through the RW menu. We started off with a glass of Taittinger Brut (champagne) each priced at a whopping SGD 30++! First course of creamy soup with foie gras filled ravioli was served promptly and was delicious. I had a small gripe with the service timing. My husband had to take an urgent business call which kept him busy for about fifteen minutes during which time the soup was served. By the time he got back to the table, the soup had cooled down considerably and the staff did not bother to ask if we wanted it re-heated. Anyways, this was a minor irritant with the otherwise flawless service. The main course consisted of risotto with a fillet of sea bass. The portion size was small and the preparation itself was just decent. If there are other choices, I would probably not order the dish again if I went back to The Knolls for a regular meal. The final course was creme brulee served with mango sorbet which was good but nothing to rave about.

Overall, I was unimpressed with The Knolls. Capella is a world class property which reeks of understated opulence with its classic architecture and immaculately kept grounds. The Knolls however does not give off a similar vibe probably due to its standard coffee shop decor. The layout is quite boxy and tables are placed very closed to one another. There is an option to sit outdoors which should be taken up on a breezy day. Apart from the prices, nothing is first class about The Knolls. The service is attentive and polite but the crux of the matter, i.e., the food leaves a lot to be desired. If the RW menu was a showcase for Capella's culinary expertise, I am disappointed. Its hard to believe this 3 star food is the best 7 star Capella could come up with.

Restaurant Review : Tres, New Delhi, India

On a recent trip to New Delhi, I noticed a sea change on the demographic and gastronomic front. Till a few years back, 'expatriate' was a term used to denote the embassy / diplomatic mission crowd residing in Chanakyapuri and shopping at Khan Market. But today, a lot of foreigners working for multinational corporations, supranational entities like World Bank and UN are calling Delhi home. I saw them shopping comfortably in crowded Lajpat Nagar while being equally at ease in the sophisticated environs of India Habitat Centre. This demographic change, coupled with an increasingly better travelled Indian has resulted in plenty of specialty restaurants, quaint delis, all day breakfast diners and European style cafes sprouting in the capital. On a landscape already dotted with restaurants offering multiple cuisines, this international influx is more than welcome.

Friends invited me to lunch and suggested the newly opened Tres in Lodhi Colony market. I initially baulked at the suggestion going only by the address. Childhood memories flashed through my mind when Lodhi Colony market used to have ten or so structured shops selling optical wear etc. The nearby Meherchand market was the go-to market for buying school books, renting fancy dress outfits for school functions and was primarily central Delhi's 'wedding market' along with Bhogal where you could hire mattresses, music systems, and 'shamianas' (bright red and green colored tents used for hosting wedding and traditional functions). You get the picture. And my friends were inviting me to Lodhi Colony market for a nice lunch? I was confused and not too inclined but the friends insisted I should check out the new revamped area for a pleasant surprise. And boy, was I surprised! Meherchand market is the new Khan market with its glitzy shops, designer boutiques and some outright swish stores. I drove onto my destination in Lodhi Colony market and well, was happy to see the ten shops still there except that now one of them houses the uber chic European eatery, Tres.

Tres (meaning three in Spanish) is a 3 month old restaurant founded by 3 chefs / restaurateurs - Jatin, Julia and Fatima. Jatin previously worked at the popular Zest restaurant in Delhi and has had cooking stints in London and Mumbai. Once inside Tres, one feels they have been transported to a Parisian cafe. Contrary to its name, Tres does not offer Spanish food. The only thing Spanish about it are the portion sizes at lunch which can qualify as tapas. On any given day, one of the three affable owners are on premises exchanging notes with their patrons. I took an immediate liking to the ambience. The cosy 50 seater eatery has been done up in shades of brown and black with a bright ceiling. The sofas are a tad soft and you tend to sink into them. Not a comfortable place when you have to have an entire meal sitting on them. A well stocked bar stands at the corner end and where the last tables are placed, you are able to get a good look at the glass paneled kitchen.

We arrived for lunch and were informed the lunch menu changes daily. Fresh ingredients, season's produce and catch of the day is important to the owner chefs and hence the daily menu change. The menu is quite exhaustive and intelligently designed. Apart from being a light meal, lunches are often kitty party affairs in Delhi where big groups like to try multiple dishes. Hence you have the menu offering small and big portions of vegetarian (INR 319 / INR 399) and non-vegetarian dishes (INR 359 / INR 419).

We started off with sun dried tomatoes and goat cheese bruschetta with caramelized onion and pickled artichokes which was simply excellent. Next to come were the garlic and parsley shrimps which were nicely done with beans on brioche in a creamy dill sauce. The chicken burgers were decent and the size is just right : 2 small burgers instead of one lumpy burger. I was a bit sceptical about seafood in landlocked Delhi but the duet of rainbow cod and sea bass fillet sounded good. And it was. One minor gripe was the fish being served with skin. I prefer it without the skin or with the skin cooked and placed as a sliver on the main fillet making it easy to peel away. We ordered thyme flavored grilled vegetables on the side (INR 99) which were strictly ok. The broccoli didn't taste fresh and in fact had a slight 'cold storage' aftertaste. The parsley roast potatoes made for a good side order though. As I mentioned above, the portion sizes are small in a good way. You can order more dishes from the expansive menu and thereby try different flavors and tastes.

For desserts, we ordered warm carrot cake which was quite nice. It had a generous smattering of dry fruits which is a rarity these days. My yardstick for measuring dessert quality is how well a place does warm chocolate brownies. I prefer my chocolate brownies to be gooey without any nuts in it. Tres' brownies had nuts in them but the taste is quite nice. The brownies come with vanilla ice cream and fudge sauce. The dessert selection is again quite extensive and at INR 320 is priced well.

Tres has a small but decent wine selection. They have steered clear of trying to do the balancing act between offering reasonably priced Indian wines and affordable European wines which are really cooking wines being sold in India. The wines are predominantly French / Italian and are priced in the range of INR 2500-4000.

Tres is busier in the evenings. Lunch is not a big affair in Delhi which is not a surprise given that the city's businesses are up and running only around 12 noon! However, this is a double edged sword and for foodies out there who like a good meal in a quality ambience, making it to Tres for lunch might just be the best idea. Service is strictly ok and offers immense scope for improvement. I hope Tres is able to smoothen out these small rough ends sooner rather than later. In the fiercely competitive gourmet world, you don't often get a second chance. Tres is off to a flying start and I look forward to being back here.

Restaurant Review : Pasta Brava, Singapore

Italian food is divine and having Italian food in Italy is a privilege of a special kind. I guess by the same yardstick, having it anywhere outside of Italy should take away significantly from the experience? Well, in my opinion it does. Whilst you can replicate the recipes with local or air flown vegetables, meats and cheeses, what cannot be replicated is the homely atmosphere of a trattoria, the owner bustling around to check all is in order and the sheer delight of walking from the chilly outdoors into the warm, cosy interiors of a mama's kitchen with a glass of Chianti red to give you company. Ah bliss!

In my quest to find the closest cousin to the above Italian atmosphere, I have relentlessly pursued Italian restaurants in Singapore's hot and humid climate. Whilst I've enjoyed some places for their food, others have been big let downs on all counts from service to food to the faux ambience. I had almost given up hope of having a hearty Italian meal in Singapore till I discovered Pasta Brava.

Tucked away in quiet Craig Road close to the business district and newly rejuvenated area of Duxton Hill, Pasta Brava is easy to miss. Housed in a charming shophouse, Pasta Brava's decor is classic Italian. All you see from the outside are glass paned windows through which smiling faces of diners catch your eye with much more gravitas than any 'Buy 1 Get 1 Free' billboard could ever do. On entering the restaurant, the vibrancy of the place almost takes you aback. Walls are adorned with paintings by the owner's brother and colourful drawings by former and current patrons. There is a choice of ground floor and first floor seating and I much prefer the former to soak in the ambience. Pasta Brava's ever-smiling owner, Rolando Luceri is on premises each time I've been there and is a perfect gentleman. Soft spoken with a heavy Italian accent, which is a bit of a surprise since he has been in Singapore for more than 40 years. Yes, you read that right - Forty years! A hotelier by experience, he has worked extensively in Asia including a long stint with the Oberoi group in India.

Now to the raison d'etre for my visits. The food menu is quite exhaustive. A staple order has always been the fried Calamari Fritti (SGD 16) which is simply wow. Another delicious appetizer - Prawns Gamberi (SGD 17) - is highly recommended for its butter garlic mix with a dash of brandy. Pasta Brava offers a range of regular pasta dishes as well as an assortment of home-made pastas. If you like your pasta with seafood, you've come to the right place. The Stracci Al Gamberi (pasta with prawns in saffrom cream sauce  priced at SGD 23) is just what your dietician asked you to stay away from. Wee bit extra creamy but absolutely lip smacking. Spaghetti with clams (SGD 19) is another favourite of mine. The generous portion of clams has to be the largest I've seen in a pasta dish in Singapore. Another seafood pasta of crab meat topped with a sliver of red mullet is nice but at SGD 30 seems overpriced. If you like fish cooked the Italian way like I do, give either the sea-bass fillet in lemon sauce or the John Dory with olives (SGD 28 each) a try. You'll not be disappointed.

Pasta Brava has a relatively small wine list vis-a-vis other Italian joints in Singapore. However, the prices are reasonable. There is a good variety of Chianti Classico's in the SGD 90-120 range. What makes the wine menu special is the availability of wines from Friuli, Abruzzo, Campania regions of Italy which usually don't show up on other fancier wine menus. Now for the desserts. A must-try is the super yummy chocolate lava cake served with vanilla ice cream (SGD 12). Sadly, the tiramisu and panna cotta (SGD 10 each) are strictly okay. The portion sizes are decent but the preparation lacks authentic taste which is a pity because these desserts are typically whipped up by Rolando or one of the family members themselves.

Did I mention the tables are covered with white chart paper and crayons are provided as well ? You are encouraged to make drawings (vivid drawings on walls testify to talents of previous diners) and if you are bereft of any such talent, the chart paper is used by waiters to note your main course order thus eliminating any confusion. The service is cheerful and efficient. With Rolando around, it is tough to have a bad service experience here.

I highly recommend a trip to Pasta Brava for a dinner with friends or even a romantic date. If you are looking for a high flying corporate entertainment kind of venue, this is not the best choice. However, if it is genuine Italian food in a setting that oozes soul and charm that you crave, Pasta Brava beckons. Till your next vacation takes you to Italy, getting to Craig Road will have to suffice.

Book Review : You'll Never Walk Alone by Debbie Singh

In the world of pulp fiction, Bangkok and crime are inextricably linked. Whilst the city is infamous for its safety record, it is also home to the infamous 'Bangkok Hilton', one of the most notorious prisons this side of the Atlantic. Australian boutique owner cum housewife Debbie Singh's book is set around the true story of her brother John who is charged with committing cheque forgery and slapped with a ten year prison sentence in Thailand's Klong Prem prison. The book narrates the tale of how Debbie campaigned hard for her brother to be granted a Royal Pardon from the Thai king and be transferred to an Australian prison to serve the remainder of his sentence - an event hitherto unknown in the absence of a Thai-Australian Prisoner Transfer Treaty.

This is essentially the story of a sister's love for her brother and the travails she goes through for his freedom's sake. The book also offers readers insights into Debbie's family which originally hailed from Liverpool in England and subsequently migrated to Australia. They are shown as a tightly knit unit which doesn't think twice before lending Debbie their whole hearted support in fighting for the cause of an 'adopted' child. John happens to also have a Thai born son and a wife who has deserted him adding to his rocky life. The book ends with a slight twist in the tale which is not entirely unexpected.

The book makes for a decent quick read. It offers good insights into Thai society and the prevalence of Farang (Foreigner) related crimes in Thailand. There are enough foreigners living in Thailand featured in this book to make you forget occasionally you are reading about Thai prisons and their inmates! The book's language is amateurish which is not surprising given this is a first person account from someone who is not a writer. I have two main contentions with the book. One is that the author assumes a very dominating tone in the book coupled with a seemingly God-given right to classify crimes as petty or serious based on her own view of them rather than how the law sees them. Repeatedly in the book, Debbie makes reference to how her brother has been given such a harsh sentence for committing 'such a stupid crime' as cheque forgery. Well, in my opinion law makers are not stupid when they come up with ten year sentences for cheque forgery. It must be a problem of some magnitude in Thailand to warrant such a serious sentence. I view it as imprudence on a foreign national's part to comment so emphatically on another country's legal system especially when their own kin is involved in a crime there. Another aspect which ticked me off is the marketing line for the book - 'A true story about the Bangok Hilton.' Klong Prem prison where John was lodged is NOT the Bangkok Hilton. It is the other Bangkok prison - Bang Kwang - that houses prisoners imprisoned for extremely serious offences and where executions are carried out, which is the notorious 'Bangkok Hilton.' I am not a fan of authors who resort to cover page gimmicks to sell their books.

Overall, I can only recommend 'You'll Never Walk Alone' for light reading. It may sound bizarre since the book deals with a very serious subject but it is the half-baked treatment of this very subject which renders this a breezy read. 

Random 3's in Singapore - Part I

A lot of my daily experiences don't merit full reviews and so i've just encapsulated them here.
P.s. The ranking is in order of being my favourite.

Top 3 coffee outlets in Singapore for having the best roasted beans at great prices :-

1. San Francisco Coffee at Phillip Street

2. Kith Cafe at Robertson Quay

3. Black's at 311 Somerset and Hitachi Tower (CBD)

Top 3 dessert places which will really satisfy that sweet tooth albeit at a price :-

1. Laurent Bernard Chocolatier at Robertson Quay

2. Da Paolo Dolci at Jalan Merah Saga

3. The Scoop Shop (Holland Village and Clementi) and Cold Stone Creamery are tied for best ice creams in town

Worst 3 burger joints in Singapore for selling overpriced small burgers which don't taste fresh :-

1. Kraze Burger at Clarke Quay and MBS

2. MOS Burger - island wide

3. Freshness Burger at Clarke Quay

Restaurant Review : Jumbo Seafood, Singapore

Either you are allergic to seafood or you love it. I fall in the latter category and am almost embarrassed to state the copious amounts of well cooked seafood I can devour. Singapore is blessed with abundant restaurants specializing in this genre and each has its speciality. Within the crab world, you have the 'Jumbo' chain being masters of Chilli Gravy and Black Pepper crab and 'No Signboard' leading the charts for White Pepper crab. Some people rave about 'Red House' and 'Longbeach' but they don't impress me. The former's sauces are too sweet for my liking and the latter's crab dishes are mostly overcooked. These are of course the fancier names in the business and if you want to check out local favourites - they are all over from Joo Chiat to Newton Hawker Centre.

Jumbo is the most known amongst all seafood joints and I cannot fault their Numero Uno position. I've been going there for the past 10 years and not once have I had complaints with the food. I might moan about the need for reservations, long waiting time, tables placed centimetres away from each other, robot-like soulless service but the food always wins me over. Consistency is a big hurdle in the F&B business but Jumbo seems to have overcome it with ease. Hence, it is no surprise whenever I land at Jumbo, the manager does a double take at our order - 'Are you sure you want to order all of this?'

I frequent the Clarke Quay, Riverside Point, Dempsey and East Coast Park outlets in that order. Our order is almost always the same with only the greens varying. A large black pepper crab (sold by the weight) will set you back by SGD 45-52 and a really large one will leave you poorer by SGD 60-70. I prefer ordering two medium crabs to one large crab as you get more claws to dig into. The chilli gravy crab doesn't pass muster with me as the creamy sauce fills you up more than the crabmeat! Jumbo does a variety of prawns and on request will de-shell them for you. The salt and pepper prawns are absolutely top-class and I cannot recommend them enough. You can place your order by prawn size (S,M,L) and if you are ordering a few dishes, I reckon the medium sized serving with 6-8 pieces (SGD 20) is good enough. The Jumbo staff highly recommends the salted egg golden prawns but I find them too salty for my taste. There are enough interesting offerings from Jumbo which is why I am not a fan of ordering steamed / fried rice here. f you are a large party, I highly recommend you order one fish dish. On a manager's recommendation few visits ago, I discovered the Soon Hock or Marbled Goby and it is a must-try item. The fish comes as a whole as opposed to a fillet but the meat is so soft you can scoop it out with ease. This too is sold by the weight and a regular size would cost SGD 50-60. With all that cholesterol-rich food going into you, I advise a portion of greens. Choose between kangkong and baby kailan and you can't go wrong with either. Done in a nice oyster sauce with lot of garlic, they are the perfect accompaniment to your seafood order.

Jumbo has a wine list but I honestly think the wine taste takes away from the seafood flavour. I am not a big fan of the locally brewed Tiger beer but have to admit it goes very well with Asian seafood. But before you order that pint or jug of beer, I highly recommend you enjoy the appetizers with a Siam coconut (SGD 4.80) which is fresh, sweet and chilled at Jumbo.

Whilst Jumbo is undoubtedly one of Singapore's most popular restaurants, there are some aspects which leave you flustered. Firstly, the cut and dry attitude of the staff - be it on phone or in person - they lack warmth and go about their jobs in a robotic manner. Should you need any help or additional cutlery/aprons, be prepared to ask 2-3 waiters before you finally get it. Agreed this is not fine dining, but you do expect a minimum level of service when dining out. But what really gets my goat at Jumbo is the hidden tea / nuts charge. For those who are unaware, the moment you take a seat you'll be presented with fried peanuts and green tea. You might think these are complimentary, but unless you return them immediately you will be billed for them. It is not about the money (peanuts for SGD 1.20 and tea per head for  SGD 1.20) but when you are in a decently expensive speciality cuisine restaurant this kind of petty billing is very annoying. Thank God they have stopped charging for the wet tissues which used to be the case a few years back!

Overall, Jumbo is of course very highly recommended. American Express credit cards can usually get you some discount here so remember to ask while settling your tab. Portion sizes are big and if you are a hearty diner with friends who have similar appetite, this is the ideal restaurant for a group dinner. Take my advice : dump the cutlery and chopsticks whilst eating the crab. Put your hands to good use and forget manners and propriety in this food heaven. Go all out !

Airline Review : Air India

Air India. The name conjures up images of smelly aircrafts, delayed flights, overweight stewardesses and of late, strikes. With all the negative headlines around the airline, people are wont to think the airline has no positive attributes left. What used to be a much decorated airline in the 1970's has been reduced to a mere caricature of its former self. But with the recent induction of the first Boeing 787 Dreamliner, there is still hope.

Whats going for the airline :
1. Business class fares are a steal ! Compared to the national carrier of your destination, I can vouch Air India (AI) business class fare will be atleast 40% cheaper if not more. Compared to Singapore Airlines, we are talking a fare difference of 70%+! Of course, the service and swish factor of other airlines might be several notches higher, but show me another nearly flat seat at Air India's price.
2. Some of AI's promotional schemes are truly value-for-money. Sample this : you can upgrade your economy seat to executive class (subject to availability) for INR 4,000 on routes less than 750 km and for INR 6,000 only for routes longer than 750km. Of course, with all the government travellers onboard, the 'availability' is a big question. Air India's most successful campaign - 'Companion flies free' - has been ongoing for years where companion pays only taxes and surcharges of the free ticket. The scheme is valid for full fare non-Asia economy seats too.
3. Great connectivity within India also : A lot of international travellers have onward connections to smaller Indian cities. Booking the entire trip on Air India is an ultra-cheap and convenient way to get to your destination. Whats more : Air India's 'Desh Videsh' scheme caters to precisely this lot (you get an international ticket free on completing INR 100,000 worth of domestic travel in a stipulated period). If you are on holiday in India, look out for the Air India-Taj hotels package which is yet another winner.
4. Service - Now when I talk about service in the Air India context, I don't mean Miss Universe-like contestants sashaying down the aisle to provide you with gourmet food and beverages. However, some staff at Air India do take their job seriously and care about providing you with smiling and efficient service. Operating within their limited government provided resources, I have often found staff to be courteous and warm (albeit a bit too matronly sometimes!)

What can do with some help :
1. Reduce AI's cost base in a bid to make it profitable : Air India is run by a heavily unionized employee body which doesn't lose much time in arm twisting the government for more bail-outs. Unfortunately, bulk of the bail-out money goes to fund 6 figure salaries of AI pilots many of whom are just high school graduates! A more realistic cost base will give AI a realistic bottomline too.
2. Regularity of service (a.k.a no strikes) : As mentioned above, the ease and frequency with which AI employees go on strike doesn't earn it any favours with retail travellers who are looking for reliability of service apart from low fares. Inspite of so many fare promotions, load factor on AI flights is dominated by Government ministers and officials who have to travel AI as per policy and who I doubt pay anything close to published fares. Needless to add, AI's on-time record has become a side casualty of these incessant strikes.
3. Inflight maintenance : I have to admit the moment when you walk into an AI plane is not exactly a memory you'll want to cherish forever. Broken armrests held together by tape, seats which won't recline, dog eared magazines and service which has zero consistency do not make for good memories. Add to these woes, headlines like these (http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/india/Stop-eating-up-flyers-food-Air-India-tells-stewards/articleshow/16456549.cms) and you realize Air India is in a league of its own in some very unique aspects!
4. No membership of any global frequent flyer program : Talks with Star Alliance have been going on and off for the past several years with the last round seeing Air India booted out by Star Alliance for not meeting the minimum standards for entry into the group.

Overall rating : 5/10. Media reports in recent times have alluded to Air India forcibly being made the proverbial big brother who sacrifices his all to give life to younger brother (a privately owned Indian airline in this context). If this is indeed the case and it does look like it with the Indian government's somewhat adamant stand on letting Air India sink, I feel sorry for JRD Tata's vision of what could have been a world class airline. But as Lenny Kravitz crooned, it ain't over till its over.

Book Review : Mafia Queens of Mumbai by S. Hussain Zaidi

Stories about gangsters and their world of deceit, greed, ambition always make for a gripping read. If those gangsters happen to be women, the awe factor goes up several notches. Stories of these women's lives and how they ended up in probably the world's last male bastion will undoubtedly leave readers asking for more. To most Indians (and the wider world), the term 'Bombay/Mumbai mafia' conjures images of Haji Mastan, Dawood Ibrahim, Chota Rajan etc. Names like Jenabai Daaruwali, Gangubai Kathewali won't ring any bells. This is where 'Mafia Queens of Mumbai' steps in to give us a new perspective on the Indian underworld and the key players who helped build this world.

Written by one of India's leading crime journalists S. Hussain Zaidi with able assistance from Jane Borges, 'Mafia Queens of Mumbai' is a collection of stories about 13 women who ruled the Mumbai underworld at different times. The Femme Fatale has always intrigued and as pointed out in the book's foreword - crime is juicier than spirituality. Tales about fearless, gutsy women ranging from rice hoarder-turned-bootlegger Jenabai Daaruwali to the brothel madam with a golden heart Gangubai Kathewali (who is apparently still revered as a Goddess in Mumbai's notorious red light district Kamathipura) to noted gangster Ashwin Naik's wife Neeta Naik who was apparently gunned down by her own husband while holding a Government office nonetheless make for an interesting read.

Whilst the book is supposed to be an amalgam of police reports, first person accounts and interviews with the subjects themselves and/or their families and associates, I got the impression some stories are hurried jobs and included only for their 'spice' factor. I am not entirely convinced about the Ashraf Khan tale which looks a tad exaggerated and on surfing the internet for more information, I did not come across much information which corroborates Zaidi's account. Guess you can walk away with some exaggerations here and there in the name of literary freedom. Also the inclusion of Monica Bedi, a wannabe film actress-turned-moll-turned-reality show contestant in this book tantamounts to an insult for the other women dons featured here who rose by virtue of their guts, sharp thinking rather than being arm candy to a second-hand underworld operative.

Another point which stands out as a sore note is the titillation factor. Some stories contain sexual details of a degree which would be hard to gather except if you were present at the scene yourself! Guess this is where Zaidi has let sensationalism creep into what otherwise would have been a hard hitting book. With Vishal Bhardwaj, the noted Indian film director penning the foreword I cannot help but think the book was written with a pre-agreement to be translated on celluloid and hence the sprinkling of spice and thrills. I definitely recommend the book but advise you to exercise discretion in believing the 'facts' therein.

Restaurant Review : Michelangelo's at Holland Village, Singapore

Holland Village and Dempsey areas of Singapore are just about the only places which offer abundant F&B options of all types - from al fresco bars to coffee shops to specialized international cuisine joints. As I've mentioned in previous posts, I am quite the fan of these areas with the exception of possibly the Lor Liput strip which is too noisy for my liking. I continue to be most partial to the Chip Bee Gardens stretch which houses my favourite La Fromagerie (best Raclette in Singapore), the original finger licking Da Paolo (their Gastronomia, Pizza Bar and Ristorante are all at Holland Village), Michelangelo's and Original Sin (probably Singapore's only all vegetarian Italian restaurant) and of course the source of my meats - The Butcher.

I find myself returning to Michelangelo's more often than I would like. Apart from being one of the few authentic al fresco restaurants in Singapore which don't charge a bomb for being just that, I like the quiet Jalan Merah Saga lane to which it overlooks. I highly recommend Michelangelo's for lunch on weekdays when it is especially quiet and you can be assured of efficient service. Their set lunches are very popular and people rarely order a la carte during this time. Ranging from SGD 25++ for 2 course set lunch to SGD 39++ for the 3 course one where you can choose from 3 appetizers, 6 mains and 3 desserts, this is value-for-money Italian fare. Highly recommended.

Michelangelo's a la carte menu is exhaustive and there is plenty to choose from amongst the pastas, seafood and grills. The humble 'Insalata Caprese' gets a new life at Michelangelo's due to the superior Mozzarella and ripe tomatoes used. I also like their fried Calamaris served with delicious tartar sauce. It is such a pity that most Italian restaurants get this basic Calamari dish so wrong and end up serving it as deep fried pub grub rather than giving it the flash fried treatment it is meant to get. From the vast array of dishes on offer, I have to admit I haven't tried most of them on my multiple trips here since my affections are almost always reserved for the 'Penne Sambuca e Gamberi' (SGD28++). This dish of tiger prawns sauteed with butter, shallots, spicy chilli and sun dried tomatoes tossed in light cream sauce with penne and flamed with a 50cl shot of Italian Sambuca is one of my all-time favourite dishes across cuisines. For the past 5+years that I've been sampling it, the dish has never failed to satisfy me and as I write this, I am tempted to go back to Michelangelo's to dig into it again! On the rare occasions I've not been upto having the aforementioned dish, I opt for Michelangelo's take on Fish n Chips : Pesce Fritto e Patate (SGD 32++). It is not the traditional English version but a likeable one nonetheless. I haven't tried it myself but I have heard average reviews about the meats/grills section of Michelangelo's. Some say the steak is chewy whilst others say it is undercooked from the degree they prefer. There is a good variety of desserts on offer - all priced at SGD 14++. My personal favourites are the Panna Cotta and Tiramisu which are both outstanding.

Michelangelo's wine list is much talked about and awarded. You can choose from a collection of over 4,000 bottles and there is something for everyone ranging from decent quality casual wines to more prestigious labels for the wine aficionados. For about SGD 100, you can get a pretty good wine to enjoy with your meal. Apart from Italian vineyards, wines from other countries also find representation here and you won't be hard pressed for choice.

Service at dinner time is a hit and miss affair at Michelangelo's. Sometimes even with a full house the attendants are prompt and efficient whilst on other lesser crowded occasions I've seen the staff are missing from action. You have to resort to hand waving (strictly food court behaviour I detest in fine dining establishments) to get the waiters' attention. Overall, Michelangelo's scores highly. It is not the best Italian food you'll have in your life and some diners might even accuse the restaurant of 'Asianizing' the traditional Italian recipes (they indeed have a Tandoori Chicken pasta), but I for one do not care. The food appeals to me and the ambience more so. Like I said before, I've been here many times. I don't see why that should change.

Restaurant Review : Chote Nawab, Lucknow, India

The Awadh region of India has long been known for its sumptuous cuisine. It is considered the birthplace of Kababs and Biryani. It is said that in Lucknow you can have 108 kinds of kababs! Take your pick from Kakori, Galawati, Seekh, Shami, Boti, Ghutwa kababs and the list goes on. Many of these varieties originated from Lucknow under the patronage of indulgent kings like Nawab Asaf-ud-Daulah and Nawab Wajid Ali Shah (who was also a great patron of music and arts aside from royal cuisine). Present day Lucknow has not only kept its culinary tradition alive, the food scene in Lucknow is actually a thriving one where centuries old recipes are found side by side with their new age cousins like Broccoli kababs. The challenge is only to find a clean, comfortable place where you can enjoy this cuisine without having to worry about what meat am I really eating or how fresh in fact is the food? For these reasons, I am not a fan of Tundey or Royal Cafe. They are good but I've found a better place.

In the world of Indian cuisine, chef Imtiaz Qureshi is a name to reckon with - a Lucknow boy whom ITC hotels spotted and gave an opportunity to launch the much revered Dum Pukht and Bukhara restaurants. Now his nephew Ishtiyaque Qureshi is keeping the family legacy alive by making these timeless authentic dishes available to the wider public with his Kakori House and Kebab Corner brand of restaurants and take-aways apart from his flagship outlet - Chote Nawab at Hotel Sagar International in Lucknow. It is to this Chote Nawab that I return to time and again knowing fully well that I will be satiated here with no complaints.

Launched as a fine dining restaurant, this 100 seater outlet is Plain Jane in looks. Dull furniture placed in a dimly lit restaurant would give an unfavourable first impression but wait for the food to arrive. The menu is exhaustive and since last year also includes plenty of prawn and fish kababs. The must-order items are but of course the kababs and biryani. Start off with the very succulent Kakori kababs (INR 350) which are so soft that it is considered a feat if you are able to lift one kabab as a whole. Move on to the super soft Galawati kababs (INR 295) which are my personal favourite here. Literally, ' Galawati' means 'melt in your mouth.' Legend has it that the kabab was created for an ageing Nawab Wajid Ali Shah who lost his teeth, but not his passion for meat dishes! The meat for Galawati and Kakori kababs is traditionally tenderized with green papaya and the technique is a secret I would love to discover. Another favourite is the Murg Makhmali kabab (INR 330) which is skewered to just the right degree every time. If you have appetite for more kababs, I can vouch whatever you'll order even with your eyes closed will be better than what 5 star hotels and deluxe restaurants in Delhi / Mumbai / elsewhere peddle in the name of Awadhi cuisine. 

Move on to the Lakhnawi biryani which is another gem from the Qureshi kitchen. Biryani is ideally had with lamb meat ('gosht') though a chicken variant is also available. A word of caution here : lovers of Hyderabadi Biryani style will be disappointed with Lakhnawi style because it is not as dry and has more oil. But for someone like me who is used to the Lakhnawi school of cooking, this is simply divine. Keep room for the 'rotis' and ideally order a basket to share. The 'Warq-e-Sada' or roomali roti (flat bread made with finely milled and refined flour) has to be one of the softest you would have eaten anywhere. You can see them being flipped into the air by master chefs in the glass-paneled kitchen in front of you. Pair the roomali rotis with another of Chote Nawab's epic offerings : Akbari Makhani Murg (butter chicken). This is the best butter chicken I've had and I should know having had a lot of them! 

And now onto the desserts. I don't have a very sweet tooth but it is at Chote Nawab where I let myself go. It is a problem of plenty here. The Shahi Tukda (saffron bread pudding), Zafrani Malai Phirni (rice set in milk), Kesar Kulfi are all to die for. On an aside, in case you are wondering about the quantum of our food order, let me mention here : I have been a Chote Nawab regular from the time it opened and have had all these dishes over a period of many years. 

Chef Ishtiyaque Qureshi is not seen regularly at Chote Nawab since he resides in Delhi and travels a lot. He has catered for most of the big fat celebrity weddings of recent times (Hrithik Roshan, Karishma Kapoor etc) and it is not surprising that he is a much sought after chef cum caterer. What really appeals to me is the fact that this hitherto 5 star cuisine has been taken out of those deluxe premises and made available to the public at far less punitive prices to the credit of this man. Three portions of Kababs alongwith a Biryani and one gravy dish accompanied with a bread basket and couple of desserts will set you back by no more than INR 2500 (USD 50) including taxes and service charge but excluding alcohol. Show me another place where you can get the same value for this kind of avant garde cuisine? This kind of pricing is all the more attractive considering Awadhi cuisine requires painstaking preparation and the right mix of ingredients which is known only to the chefs themselves and rarely disclosed to the outside world. The utensils used at Chote Nawab are also reminders of the precious legacy they protect - all are made of pure copper and tinned just like they used to be 200 years ago.

If you are a history buff or a connoisseur of Lucknow's age old hand embroidery works of Zardozi and Chikankari or even just a tourist to India , chances are you'll find yourself in one of the world's most refined cultural cities sooner or later. Take out time to sample its superlative cuisine or better still, let the cuisine be the magnet that attracts you to Lucknow. Once here, don't bother going anywhere else. Chote Nawab is the real McCoy.

UPDATE : Chote Nawab has unfortunately ceased operations out of Hotel Sagar International w.e.f. 2013. A new restaurant (not an Ishtiyaque Qureshi outlet) has opened in its place. If you want to sample Chote Nawab delicacies, only home delivery service is now available via their 'Kakori House' outlet. Food items are priced considerably lower than Chote Nawab but the food is terrible. I ordered Chote Nawab's specialties like Kakori Kabab, Galawati Kabab etc which were priced at about INR 100 each. None of the items left an impression on me and Kakori House is now on my 'strictly avoid' list. What have you done Ishtiyaque Qureshi? Slaughtered your hard earned reputation with this mediocre food. A real loss indeed.

Hotel Review : Viceroy Bali, Ubud, Indonesia

Bali beckoned us again and this time, we decided to give artistic Ubud a try over happening Seminyak and other places. Friends recommended a host of hotels from Four Seasons Sayan, The Chedi Club to the more boutique options like Viceroy and Komaneka at Bisma. We wanted to avoid the holiday crowds and therefore decided to skip chain hotels like Four Seasons. We opted instead for the family owned Viceroy which we believed would not be frequented by families with young children due to its hilly topography. Viceroy seemed the right choice for us as we wanted a quiet holiday far from the madding crowds.

The Viceroy staff was very prompt on emails and my reservation took less than a day to confirm after a slew of back and forth emails wherein they answered all my queries. A word of caution here : Viceroy does not have a consistent pricing policy and you will see a wide range of rates on different websites like Kiwi Collection, Tablet Hotels etc. Inclusions also differ. Hence, I strongly recommend you to scour the internet thoroughly before making your booking. We opted for the express immigration service provided by the hotel and it is a real boon. For a fee of USD 25 per person, there is a gentleman waiting for you at Denpasar airport who will collect your passport and get the visa (additional visa fee of USD 25 per person) and custom clearance in less than 10 minutes. This service was especially useful since the Denpasar airport is a very busy airport and is generally packed to the gills with enthusiastic travellers, kids and pets in tow.

We were met by Viceroy's friendly driver Made (Nova) who welcomed us with face towels and chilled water. Viceroy is a 90 minutes drive from the airport and the drive is very comfortable in the Toyota SUVs which comprise bulk of Viceroy's fleet. You can avoid the long drive from the airport by availing Viceroy's helicopter service which takes 45 minutes for a one way transfer and costs approx USD 1000++. As you pull into the hotel's driveway, you drive past Viceroy's exclusive helipad. Very luxurious touch indeed.

We were greeted warmly at the reception and check-in was a smooth process. We had booked a terrace villa which was sufficiently removed from the reception thus ensuring complete tranquility. All villas have views of the valley and are constructed so as to give complete privacy. As we entered our villa, a wow escaped our lips since the villa is quite simply breathtaking. You enter past a small infinity pool which has a small Balinese pavilion called a 'bale' perched over it. It is an ideal place to read a book and sip some wine overlooking the spectacular Petanu river gorge. The villas offer complete privacy so much so you can skinny dip without a second thought. However, the pool water was ice cold and that was one major gripe I had with the hotel. To maintain the infinity look, the pool water spills over the edge and goes underground to be piped again through a beautiful statue in the pool. This means the water is chilly even when it is a bright and sunny day. 

The interior of the villa is large and is essentially one large room with coffee maker, LCD television in one corner, a large bed in the centre flanked by cupboards on both sides and shower area at the other end. The shower area is not demarcated by a door or wall from the rest of the room and hence offers no privacy. The tub is in fact situated right behind the bed in the open. I guess this kind of bathing option will not appeal to older and more conservative guests. One thoughtless aspect of the room is that whilst the lavatory has a door, one entire wall opens to the tub area. Which effectively means your partner can hear your business while lying on the bed ! Not sure if the owners find this open bathroom concept romantic but I would call it an ideal case of style over substance. The mini-bar is well stocked and non-alcoholic drinks are complimentary. There is a Bose IPod docking station in the room allowing you to hear music at fairly high decibels without disturbing your neighbours who are located a fair distance away. Free wifi is provided in the rooms and there is a library in the hotel from where you can borrow books and DVDs. Bicycles are also available for free hire from the hotel.

Now to the most important feature of any hotel, i.e., food and beverages. Viceroy has only one restaurant on its premises - Cascades and it is a very well known name on the Balinese culinary landscape. We had a 3 course dinner included in our package and had it on our first night there. The pre-decided dessert was unavailable and we made do with an alternative. This left a poor impression on us and clearly points to the fact that Cascades does not run a full-scale kitchen with food being cooked in limited quantities. We dined out for the remainder of our trip except one occasion when we ordered room service. The food came promptly in ten minutes and unlike our first experience, the food was delicious. So the problem seems to be consistency. This aspect was confirmed the next day when we had breakfast. This is indeed the biggest let down at Viceroy. There is no buffet system and you order from a breakfast menu. Fruit platter and assorted breads along with a glass of juice and tea/coffee is included and apart from this, you can order any one main course free of charge. For a second dish order, you have to pay. The fruit platter and bread basket were the same everyday and so were the choice of 3 fruit juices. The size of the main course is very inconsistent. If you order pancakes, be prepared to go hungry since the portion is of a child-meal. On the other hand, an omelette is made of 3 eggs and very filling ! I am puzzled that Viceroy should adopt this approach at breakfast. I can understand a full scale kitchen is not feasible for a 25 room property (though a full kitchen is a must for a 5 star deluxe property) but then is it not more practical to offer more choices of smaller portions rather than one main course only which is more at risk of being wasted ? Either ways, this had to be the most boring and frugal breakfast I've had in an upscale hotel. 

The concierge services at Viceroy are excellent. We expressed our interest to see a coffee plantation to taste genuine Kopi Luwak or civet coffee (popularly known as 'poo' coffee), rice fields, spice garden and Mas village renowned for its furniture, woodwork and art galleries. Made gladly agreed to drive us around and at USD 60 for a 4 hour car hire, this is actually value-for-money. After our visit to the coffee plantation, we had some spare time and Made suggested a trip to the much-hyped Monkey Forest. If you are Asian, chances are you would have had seen many monkeys in your life thus making this excursion somewhat a waste of time.

Where I'd withhold some marks from Viceroy in the concierge and services division would be that they under-sell their beautiful property. We noticed one day a wine event being held by the poolside and on enquiring were told this is a monthly get together for expats in Bali that the Viceroy owners arrange. It is open for hotel guests also by paying a fee. Had we known about it earlier, we might have made time for it in our itinerary as would have other guests I am sure. But the event was not publicized and Viceroy lost an opportunity to make money as also provide their guests with additional recreation options.

Finally, a word on the much acclaimed Lembah spa. The setting of the spa is absolutely gorgeous and pictures on the website do full justice to the spa's fantastic location and breathtaking views. Apart from massage and sauna/steam, you can avail hair and nail services as well. We had a one hour couple spa treatment booked along with use of steam and jacuzzi. The jacuzzi pressure was just right and I could have been there the entire day. For the massage, you can choose from a range of aroma oils. The massage itself was nothing to write home about. Considering we were at the home of the Balinese massage style, the therapists were not that skilled and somehow, the strokes were not as relaxing as at some other places where I've tried the same. The massage room itself was not that conducive for relaxation with bright light streaming through the windows.

At the end of the trip, I have mixed sentiments for Viceroy. It is better than the Shangri-La's of the world but nowhere close to Aman resorts. The price point is only a couple of hundred dollars lower than Aman but the overall experience is several notches lower. The service is polite, smiling and efficient but seems to lack soul. Viceroy provides an excellent pick-up and drop-off complimentary car service to the main Ubud town centre. In this respect, the drivers were always prompt. The hotel offers some nice touches which are unfortunately negated by sub-standard service in other key areas like breakfast. Boutique hotel owners are seen on-site usually but in our case, we did not see them around at all. I don't mind returning to Viceroy but it won't be in a hurry.

Restaurant Review : The Mango Tree, Singapore

Indian coastal cuisine includes both Konkani and Malabari cuisine. Thankfully it is highly under-rated and not as commercialized as North Indian Mughlai cuisine (read available at every nook and corner). Many people do not have a taste or liking for seafood and specifically for seafood cooked in coconut oil / cream which is the standard medium of cooking in this cuisine.

Having heard about Mango Tree in Singapore for many years, I had not got around to visiting the place. However, couple of weeks back the boredom with fish tikkas and Jumbo style pepper crabs got the better of me and I promptly decided to dine at The Mango Tree. Noting the address from the website, we set off for Marina Cove at East Coast Road only to find the said restaurant does not exist there! I called the restaurant to be promptly informed they had shifted a fair distance away 3 months back to a new premises in a Katong mall ! I was appalled and suddenly not very sure if I wanted to trek to the new destination. After all, if you cannot update your website with this basic information, how can I be sure of your culinary prowess? Deciding to give it a try nonetheless, we arrived at the swish new mall 112 Katong to find the restaurant thankfully does exist here.

Located on the 3rd floor of the mall the bright decor shows off the newness of the restaurant. We were greeted with a polite smile and on being told their website wasn't updated which resulted in inconvenience for us, a staff member duly noted the same. A whole range of brass crockery is displayed in the passageway leading to the indoor and outdoor seating areas. We decided on the quieter outdoor seating under fans overlooking one of Singapore's most expensive landed houses, as the staff keenly informed us.

For appetizers we started off with The Mango Tree Tandoori Platter and Meen Pollichathu. I highly recommend the Tandoori platter with its mix of chunky fish kebabs, chicken seekh kebabs and tandoori prawns and priced at SGD 24, the portion is just right for sharing amongst 3 diners. I tried the Meen Pollichathu for the first time outside Kerala where it is a staple and popular dish. In Kerala, Pearl Spot fish or Karimeen (as it is locally known and hence the dish's name) is baked in banana leaves. However, this being Singapore Karimeen is unavailable and thus, pomfret or similar fish is used. If you've never had Meen Pollichathu in Kerala, you will love this preparation. Even otherwise, it is a decent dish to order.

For the main course, we ordered Mouli Jhingadi, Crab Masala, Appam and for some North Indian flavour, a portion of Murg Makhani and Lachha Paratha. Prawns are called 'Jhinga' in regional Indian languages and the Mouli Jhingadi dish was described in the menu as tiger prawns cooked in coconut gravy. The traditional Malabari coconut gravy dish is called 'Prawn Gassi'. Expecting this to be the same preparation, the Mouli Jhingadi was a bit of a disappointment. The prawns were large but instead of the tomato gravy cooked in coconut oil as in the original version, here the gravy was thick coconut cream and that too not of the Indian coconut which has a distinct flavour and is easily available in Singapore. The cream used was the ubiquitous 'Kara' brand of coconut cream which is a staple in Thai cooking. I did not particularly relish the mish-mash taste of curry leaves in Thai coconut cream being passed off as Konkani cuisine and would desist from ordering the dish next time.

Another disappointment was the Crab Masala. The dish is an excellent part of the Malabari menu and is traditionally served without any shell or claws. It is extracted crab meat sauteed with tomatoes, onions and southern spices for which Kerala is famous. I specifically checked with the waiter to ensure that the crab meat is served without the shell. Unfortunately contrary to what we were told, I was aghast to see the whole crab arrive dunked in copious amounts of tomato gravy. I'd like to believe I am an expert crab eater so I did extract all the meat but still it was not something I was prepared for at a Malabari cuisine outlet. The appams accompanying our meal were superlative and hot off the girdle. They were of the right fluffiness and size and we ordered more as we went along with our dinner.

While Murg Makhani fits just as well into a Konkani menu as an American burger, I must say it was excellent. Definitely has to be the best Murg Makhani I've had in Singapore and the Lachha Paratha complemented it perfectly. The smoky taste of Australian First Drop Chardonnay worked beautifully with our order and at SGD 66, was priced very well too. In fact, the small wine list at Mango Tree is quite attractively priced overall. We rounded off our dinner with a portion of Mango Kulfi to share and it was quite good.

Despite my quibbles about some of the dishes, I would still highly recommend a visit to The Mango Tree. My quibbles have more to do with my expectations from some of these dishes since I have been an avid fan of Konkani cuisine for many years. The food menu is exhaustive and I reckon more inputs from the waiter should be taken before placing your order. Don't let the original Kerala recipes dictate your choices here and you'll be fine. The service is polite and unintrusive. Small touches like placing an antique looking wash basin styled in brass in the outdoor area earn Mango Tree plus points. The music volume could be turned down a little but that was a minor aspect. At SGD 200+ The Mango Tree is not cheap but portion sizes are generous and the ambience genuinely relaxing. And yes, I checked the website recently and whilst it has been updated, it seems to have been done by a child - the new address has simply been added to the old one! Check out the new 112 Katong mall and drop into The Mango Tree for a different taste of India.

Airline Review : Air Asia

Think budget flights and images of crammed seats, smelly aircrafts come to mind. This needn't be the case always. Definitely not when you are flying Air Asia. The airline has been a success story from the word go. From 2001 when an erstwhile sick state owned Malaysian airline was re-relaunched as Air Asia to its successful (and oversubscribed) IPO it is not difficult to see why Air Asia is the success story it is.

Whats going for the airline :
1. Cheap fares. Sometimes they have promotions which can give you a real bargain.
2. Connectivity. Excellent connections from Singapore to Australia, Indonesia and Malaysia. Thailand can be better covered with only Bangkok and Phuket being catered to from Singapore.
3. Clean aircrafts. Cleanliness is usually the biggest sore point with budget carriers but Air Asia is an exception. Discarded bottles, food packs etc are taken away before landing thus sparing time for a quick vacuum before the next take-off.
4. Food is quite tasty by airline standards.
5. You can save 30-50% if you pre-book add-on services like extra baggage, meals on flight etc.
6. BIG loyalty program helps to tie budget flyers to Air Asia.

What can do with some help :
1. On-time performance can improve. Occasionally my flights have been delayed for no apparent reason other than 'technical issue.' If the issue really is serious, then the aircraft should be pulled out of service and sent for a thorough maintenance check.
2. Difference between preferred morning / evening slots and graveyard slots can be quite hefty. I understand this is part of the budget pricing exercise but in low season this can be adjusted in my opinion.
3. Like all budget carriers, leg space and seat size is wanting. But that is not such a big issue in my view since the budget pricing makes up for the inconvenience of a crammed seat.

Overall rating : 8/10. This has to be the numero uno budget carrier in the Asian region and it is not without justification that Air Asia CEO Tony Fernandes is one of the most respected figures in the aviation industry today. If you fly budget, fly Air Asia.

Book Review : Battle for Bittora by Anuja Chauhan

A wave of new generation Indian writers is deluging Indian readers. Each one claims to offer a unique insight into 'their' world. So if it was the self-lived IIT life that introduced Chetan Bhagat to success, Anuja Chauhan's popular book ' Battle for Bittora' claims to offer readers a behind the curtains look into the dirty world of Indian politics. Chauhan should know about politics, being the daughter-in-law of veteran Congress leader Margaret Alva.

'Battle for Bittora' is set against the backdrop of India's largest exercise in wasteful expense : Lok Sabha elections. The main protagonist, Sarojini Pande is forced to stand for elections by her pushy 3 times MP grandmother who has ambitions of keeping the Lok Sabha Bittora seat in the family. Sarojini standing on a Pragati Party (fictionalized Congress) ticket is pitted against her childhood friend turned lover Zain Altaf Khan who is contesting on an IJP (fictionalized BJP) ticket. The preparations for the election and what happens behind the scenes is what forms the crux of this book. Reading the acknowledgements at the end, you know 'Battle for Bittora' draws heavily from Chauhan's personal life with most of the setting being a snapshot of Chauhan's own upbringing and childhood. Peppered with real life incidents with a liberal take on politicians (you'll know who all are being talked about in each instance) and actors ('Salmon Khan'), Chauhan's breezy writing style does elicit occasional laughs from you.

Whilst Sarojini Pande's character is shown to be a weakling who comes into her own as the story progresses, other characters are not half as well developed. Some of them are caricatures of politicians' side kicks we see on TV. In my opinion, the overall plot is immature and unreal. Written in Hinglish, the book is clearly intended for an Indian audience only as there are no footnotes for meanings of Hindi words, or explanations of cultural references which an international audience would need. Overused cliches, poor editing and rose tinted glass views of a very complicated Indian political system strike this book off a serious readers' reading list. Considering the book has been hailed as good 'time pass' fare, movie rights for the book have been purchased. I suggest you wait and spend money on the popcorn then rather than buy the book now.

Restaurant Review : Tiffin Room at Raffles Hotel, Singapore

The two centuries old colonial styled Raffles Hotel is Singapore's most iconic landmark apart from being one of the world's most renowned hotels. The Singapore Sling cocktail was invented at the hotel's Long Bar which has been frequented by Ernest Hemingway and Somerset Maugham in the past. Steeped in this kind of history, expectations from any Raffles Hotel experience are sky high. The hotel has a large number of restaurants and bars in its spacious compound. The hotel's main dining room - Tiffin Room - is a tradition being continued at Raffles of being an Indian curry house. Today it is a popular hangout for tourists and I've also frequented it on few occasions.

The restaurant is located by the main hotel entrance and reeks of opulence. High ceilings, tall pillars, large windows and solid teak wood tables lend an authentic old world charm to the place. The all-white ambience is accentuated by black and white photographs on the walls and waiters dressed in crisp white uniforms. This is a buffet only restaurant (no a la carte) and the menu never changes. Which is good and bad. If you want a safe dining option, you can always count on Tiffin Room but not too frequently since you'll be having the same salads, the same appetizers, the same main course and the same desserts each time! Lunch buffet is priced at SGD60++ and dinner buffet at SGD75++ per person. Dress code is smart casual which means shorts and toe revealing footwear for men is a complete no-no.

The lunch buffet is from 12 noon to 2 pm after which high tea commences. Salads on offer are a mix of greens, vegetables and chilled seafood. Appetizers are potato patties, lamb seekh kebabs and mains range from popular Indian dishes like Palak Paneer (spinach with cottage cheese), Baingan Bharta (mashed eggplant cooked in spices) to seabass fillet cooked in tomato gravy, chicken tikka masala and lamb curry. Whilst the dishes are not culinary feats, the lamb curry is definitely outstanding. Rice options include plain steamed rice and chicken biryani. An assorted basket of freshly prepared naan breads will be brought to your table. There is of course a wine list to choose from. It has a very limited selection though and with a bottle of Cape Mentelle Sauvignon Blanc priced at SGD 108++, you know you are paying more for the ambience than the wine. The real scene stealer here are the desserts. For anyone with a sweet tooth and fondness for Indian desserts particularly, this is heaven. On offer are Kheer (rice pudding), Sewai (vermicelli in milk) and various other sweets.

Service is attentive and polite. After every course, when I returned to the table my napkin had been neatly folded on the chair arm-rest and old plate and cutlery cleared away. If you so wish, the staff will even get a dish from the buffet in a smaller bowl for you to be able to help yourself on the table. Not something I have observed in other buffets. Just a word of caution : looks like they prepare a particular quantity of food per buffet session. On more than one occasion, I have seen a food tray empty with no sign of it being refilled ! So be on time to be able to taste all that is on offer. More often than not, Tiffin Room will be offering 20-25% discounts on certain credit cards. Remember to ask for special credit card promotions when settling the bill.

A visit to Tiffin Room is ideal for celebrating special occasions as they have a corner of the restaurant earmarked for big groups. Occasionally you can step into Tiffin Room and gorge away in decadent opulence. I only wish they experimented with the menu once in a while to draw me back more often.

Lounge / Bar Review : CMPB, Dempsey, Singapore

I love Dempsey Hill. Apart from varied dining options its quaint art galleries, furniture shops and hilly topography give this place an uber Bohemian feel. It is not without reason this enclave has become a sophisticated hotspot and you will be a disappointed person if your reservations are not in place for almost all restaurants here on Friday and Saturday nights. Amongst the mix of specialty Mexican, Thai, French, seafood restaurants you'll find here, is a place called Contemporary Melting Pot and Bar (or CMPB as it is popularly known).

I've been here a couple of times before but only for a drink. I had liked the outdoor setting and their live band. So when opportunity arose, we picked CMPB for a proper meal. We did not have reservations for the Saturday evening but since we arrived really early (6:30 pm), the staff gave us a lovely table outdoors. CMPB has soft lighting with lanterns which lend it a festive look unlike the indoor area which is a bit too dark for my liking. A big plus for alfresco dining here is the numerous fans they have which keep humidity in check.

We ordered a portion of the famous CMPB truffle fries and beer battered fish bites priced at SGD 15 each. The truffle fries is a large portion and it would take four adult diners to finish it if you intend having main course. The deep fried fish bites were very soft and the portion size is just right. For our main course, we ordered Chicken Arabbiata (SGD18) and black pepper crab olio (SGD26). The pastas are overtly spicy due to very liberal use of black pepper. Have to mention the crab olio had generous portions of crab meat and that by itself will fill you after the truffle fries and fish bites.

CMPB offers an eclectic mix of drinks ranging from standard soft and hard liquor to exotic cocktails like Sake Mojito to innovative mocktails like CM-PB Therapy (refreshing mix of green apple, rock melon and water melon). Mocktails at SGD 12 are expensive considering cocktails are priced at SGD 14-16. Even a glass of imported Spanish Cava looks reasonably priced at SGD 18 if you consider the price of juices and mocktails here. Did I forget to mention desserts? We tried the apple strudel with vanilla ice cream. Nothing exceptional but not too bad either.

Overall, I would recommend CMPB. The ~SGD 160 tab for two is justified once in a while to have a relaxed outing in Singapore. The efficient service you get here from attentive waiters is a rarity in this island state. Add to that an exceptionally talented band which starts playing at 9:30 pm. The lead singer does a remarkable job of both strumming the guitar and beautifully singing such complex songs as 'Wishful Thinking' and 'The Only Exception.' By the time we left the place was packed with a steady stream of people trooping in more for drinks than the food. Probably this is what I'd do too on my next visit. The food won't attract you but the music, drinks and ambience will. Check it out.

Restaurant Review : Indus at Ubud, Bali, Indonesia

There is no dearth of quality dining options when you are in the land of the Gods - Bali. But when it comes to Ubud, the story is slightly different. The artistic and cultural centre of Bali as Ubud is often described is not exactly teeming with restaurants and bars. There are plenty of art galleries and wood carving centres but eating options are still quite limited in Ubud. In fact, if you are looking to party then Ubud should probably figure lowest on your list of Bali hangouts. There are just about five bars which open beyond 11 pm and these too shut down by 1:30 pm.

Well, I did not go to Ubud seeking nightlife and on my latest trip my focus was solely on rest and relaxation of the brainless kind. After checking out the big but missable monkey forest (I am an Indian so monkeys don't hold an exotic appeal for me), we walked around Monkey Forest Road looking for a place to have lunch. At the end of the road, we spotted an exterior which looked like an art gallery but had people trooping in and out for ostensibly a meal. Deciding to have a dekko, we too popped in and wow - a new world beckoned us beyond the threshold. Welcome to Indus.

The restaurant does not look fancy from outside but walk in past painting laden walls and you are offered breath taking views of the forest and Tjampuhan river. The restaurant is set on two dining levels offering both indoor and outdoor seating. Ask for outdoor seating on the higher level. We were lucky to get such a table and the setting was just right - windy weather offering us good views of the hills with the river gushing below. Whilst the indoor seating is typical Balinese style with ground seating on cushions around a wooden table, the outdoor seating is contemporary. A melange of music was playing in the background including instrumental versions of Indian devotional songs ! Not sure if this is a regular feature or it was a special gesture for us.

The restaurant offers a day's special menu which is really a selection of dishes from the regular menu. There is a choice of Indonesian fusion food and continental food with hints of Thai influence (generous use of kaffir lime leaves and coconut). A basket of fried tapioca cakes were served as complimentary starters. Whilst it was hot and crispy, there was a slight aftertaste which makes me think the oil was dubious. I ordered a Tasmanian salmon with snake beans in Indonesian spices and it was wonderful. Wrapped in banana leaf and priced at IDR 130,000 (Approx USD 13) it has to be the least expensive chunk of tasty salmon I've ever had. My better half ordered Balinese seafood paella with yellow rice and it was quite decent. Main course dishes are all priced in the range of USD 6 - 13 which is very reasonable given the portion size and restaurant setting. Side orders of mashed potatoes etc are priced at USD 3 and desserts at USD 5. Let me mention here if you do not have the appetite for a full main course dish, they have smaller portions of the same available. What a wonderful feature! Drinks are also reasonably priced with local Bintang beer being priced at just USD 3. Indus has daily happy hours from 5pm - 7pm where cocktails are priced at USD 7 versus regular price of USD 9. As if the Indian music was not enough, the drinks menu also featured 'Lassis' (Indian non alcoholic yoghurt drink)!

Service at Indus is polite and efficient. The staff seem genuinely happy to serve you. I sent back our Bintang as it was not chilled enough and the serving lady promptly got another one without batting an eyelid. The ambience at Indus is laid back and is just the place where you can spend your day looking at the lush greenery. The Indus group has a bar in Ubud town called Casa Luna. Whilst we walked past it later in the evening and saw it packed to the hilt, we did not venture inside. If Indus is any indication, then Casa Luna deserves a visit as well. I have it marked out for my next trip to Ubud. I highly recommend you pay a visit to Indus. Just sit back and gaze at the greenery for hours at end without burning a hole in your pocket.

Airline Review : Jet Star / Valuair

Jet Star is part of the Qantas group and operates out of Singapore under the Jet Star and Valuair (catering mostly to Indonesian destinations) names. Being a budget carrier, it is all about low fares and keeping overhead costs to a minimum. If you require any add-on services (extra leg space, meals on flight, preferred seat, first to disembark, extra baggage etc) be prepared to pay extra. However, the early bird fares are truly fantastic. Sometimes fares can be as low as SGD 30.

Whats going for the airline :
1. Cheap fares. Basic fares are quite attractive and would appeal to those who don't have any time constraints. Like most budget airlines, fares for preferred slots like late nights on weekdays and mid afternoon on Sundays are significantly more expensive than the early morning weekday and late night weekend fares.
2. Offers excellent connectivity in the Asia Pacific region and especially to Australia.
3. Operates out of Terminal 1 at Singapore Changi Airport rather than Budget Terminal which makes for a smoother airport experience.
4. Food and beverage options are reasonably priced. Cannot comment on quality since I haven't tried them.
5. Website is easy to navigate. There is a significant discount if you book add-on services at time of original booking vis-a-vis availing these services at the check-in counter. So think through your additional requests beforehand since time available for completing booking process is quite short.

What can do with some help :
1. Seats are very cramped and leg space would be the least amongst all airlines I have flown. If you are assigned a middle seat, you better be waif-thin.
2. Overhead compartment space is very limited. Since check-in baggage has a cost, travellers tend to maximise their cabin baggage allowance (10 kgs) and almost everyone has hand baggage. Be prepared to rush in when boarding starts else you won't find space.
3. Cleanliness is a big issue. Seats and tray tables are often dirty. Since on-time performance is crucial for budget carriers (small aircraft fleet), hygiene becomes a casualty. Don't be surprised to find rubbish on the floor and in seat pockets. I advise you to carry wet wipes.
4. Jet Star offers the option to pay extra for being given priority to disembark. To ensure this the back door is never opened at final destination. If you are claustrophobic or in a hurry but don't want to pay for the early disembarkation service, choose your seats carefully so as not to be stuck at the rear. Maybe it would be easier if they charged extra for the last row of seats as well but opened both doors for disembarkation?
5. On-time performance record seems to be a hit and miss. Most of my flights have been delayed but maybe that was just my luck.

Overall rating : 3/10. Inspite of low fares, given the actual in-flight experience, fly Jet Star only if you must. Here's hoping the arrival of new budget entrant - Scoot - will propel Jet Star to get its act together.

Restaurant Review : Nueva Cuba, Singapore

Decided to check out this eatery in Collyer Quay for lunch on a weekday. After one and a half hours of ordering there was still no sign of the food. It never came. Thus, I can only comment on the water. We asked for still water and got sparkling!

P.S. We weren't the only ignored souls. As it turned out, all diners seated outdoors by the bay had been waiting for their order for over an hour. Taking cue from us, they too left without so much as an apology or explanation from the staff.

Hotel Review : Pride Hotel, Nagpur, India

Umaria. This non descript place in Madhya Pradesh beckoned us and thankfully we had Google (Maps) to help us plan how to get there. Some friendly tips and few bookings later, we were on a flight from Mumbai to Nagpur from where we would make the road journey to Umaria the next day. Needing a hotel in Nagpur for the two night halt on way to and from Umaria, we zeroed in on Pride Hotel located a stone's throw away from Nagpur airport. Other option was Sun n Sand Hotel which is located further away but people insisted Pride is the best. So Pride it was for us too.

We had asked for airport pick-up which was a very chaotic affair. There was a person at arrival hall holding a placard with our names but the car was nowhere to be seen. After sometime, a battered Indica transported us to the hotel half a kilometer away. Not the best way to start our trip but we were hopeful. Check-in was smooth. The smiling staff gave us a lowdown on hotel facilities and showed us to our road-facing room. The room was comfortable and provided all basic facilities including a newly renovated bathroom. The room overall lacked character and cleanliness. Whilst it was clean on the face of it, a closer inspection revealed dust and grime. We asked reception for a wake-up call at 3 a.m. and turned in early for the night. Annoyingly, the phone rang at 11 p.m. asking us if we had indeed asked for a 3 a.m. wake up call! What was the staff thinking by calling hotel guests to reconfirm at such a late hour? Anyhow, the wake up call never came and thank god for our own mobile alarms, we were up and ready at 4 a.m. We had booked a car and chauffeur through the hotel's travel desk and thankfully, the chauffeur was waiting for us at the lobby. On an aside, we were on the road for 26 hours and returned next day only at 6 a.m. and have only good things to say about the car service. It is not an easy task to drive 900 odd kilometers in 20+ hours on good and bad roads and we were thankful for having an experienced hand at the wheel. Once back at Pride, we put the Do-Not-Disturb sign at the door and crashed out of sheer exhaustion. And just as we drifted into deep slumber, my husband's mobile phone rang. And it was from the hotel's housekeeping team asking when can they clean the room since Do-Not-Disturb sign is there! We were livid. Clearly the hotel staff has not been trained to understand what a DND means. How can guests' mobile numbers be shared liberally with staff and that too for such purposes!

Once awake, we decided we were better off staying outside the hotel than inside. Part of the Incredible India experience is that whoever steps out from a hotel is taken to be a tourist. We had auto rickshaws queuing up to take us to the closest mall for INR 200. I used my haggling skills and we were at the mall in INR 40. So tourists beware. Negotiate, negotiate, negotiate. The food at Pride is quite decent. On our first day, we had ordered room service for an early dinner since we had to start our 370 kilometer one-way journey to Umaria at 4 a.m. The dinner portion was large and we left quite a bit of the Palak Paneer and Daal Makhani unfinished. On our final evening, we had dinner at the rooftop Indian restaurant Puran da Dhaba where a live band belted out Hindi numbers. The singers were terrible, the food was good and we got to taste a local vineyard's wine which was not too bad.

We had an early check-out so did not get to try the Pride breakfast at all. The check-out process was slow with one of the staff just disappearing with our credit card. After some confusion, it was all sorted out and we finally left the hotel. Clearly, Pride Hotel is not geared to service high end tourists and business travellers. But then Nagpur is not a tourist hot-spot or a big business centre. I find it hard to believe the hotel is considered 5 star. A 4 star rating would be more appropriate given the poor service standards, lack of maintenance in common areas and practically zero sound proofing (there was a college party in the hotel ball room and we could hear the blasting music till our 4th floor room). Next time I am in Nagpur, I'll firstly try to keep it even shorter than this two day trip. Secondly, I would definitely look for other options but might end up at Pride again for the TINA factor. There Is No Alternative. And that is a very bad reason for a hotel to be getting business.